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rick s

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  1. Great video Jay and Demonology! Thanks for posting it.
  2. Do some research on how they sound at idle.
  3. Make sure you understand the noise a Procharger makes before you buy one. Make sure you hear the model you want running - in person.
  4. I think so. Unless you're road racing the car, the strut brace is not important.
  5. I installed a Kenne Bell on my 09 in 2011. I am very, very happy with it. Whipple has become very popular since then and a lot of people have installed them. Magnuson and Edelbrock are more choices. The important part of the build is the tune, and who tunes it. Here is my install thread. It will show you what's involved in a DIY install. http://www.lxforums.com/board/superchargers/273715-dream-3-supercharger.html?highlight=rick+kenne+bell
  6. I love it! Absolutely love it! It is the only blown car I've ever driven: So I have nothing to compare it to though. My car is 100% stock, except for the KB kit. I am at 9 psi. 550 at the wheels. Tuned by Brent at DTP in Virginia Beach. I don't know about the shock tower brace. I don't road course the car, so I don't need it. I do like to drag race the car every once-in-awhile and the heat soak ruins the day. I don't want to get into an ice box and I cannot dial-in the car because the car will run slower with every successive pass. I've seen a lot of people talk about how great the newer Whipple is, and how great it is on IAT's and driveability. Then, I see other people say it still has IAT issues. So, I don't know what is really different. Feel free to fire away with any other questions.
  7. I have a KB 2.8 LC on my 2009 Chalenger SRT, 6.1. The Kenne Bell is bad on the heat soaking issue. But that is only a concern if you are going to drag race the car. You will not see consistent E.T.'s without going through a lot of in-between round cool-down work. If this will be a street driver, then the entire heat soak issue is a non-discussion because it doesn't apply to a car that's driven on the street.
  8. Finally! https://www.nhra.com/news/2018/nhra-virginia-nationals
  9. Thanks for the tips Jay. I know of a product you should consider for your tires: Tufshine. I've been using it for years and I love it. You have to really pay attention (and time) to the one-time-only cleaning prep, but after that, it's easy. After the clearcoat is applied and dry, Tufshine is dry to the touch! I tell everyone at the cruise-ins to "Go ahead and wipe your finger across my tires. They're dry!" No oily mess. No oil slinging. To keep the shine up all I do is wash the tires with car wash, dry them, and apply another coat of their clearcoat. I do that once every 6-12 months. I treat both the face and the backside of all my tires and that keeps the "browning" away. www.Tufshine.com Rick
  10. Congratulations Jane!
  11. On the 09's: We can reposition a fuse in the trunk to make the console outlet either switched power or always on power. It is the fuse with 3 slots. I moved that fuse to make the console outlet full time power. I took a fuse tap blade pushed it into the now open, single slot (switched power), and ran that wire up to my dash to run my trinity and Innovate LM-2. It works well for me and gave me the result I wanted.
  12. Interesting . . . Thanks for adding that. I would like to hear some more opinions on this. I would like to add meth (not tuned for it) simply for the IAT's [u[and[/u] to use it to rinse/clean all the oil that comes in from the PCV system off of the rotors, housing, intake manifold intercooler fins, etc. Your thoughts please?
  13. Unless something has changed recently . . . it is not recommended to run methanol through a Kenne Bell. It has been said that it could damage the rotors.
  14. This is probably way more than you wanted to know: But, here is my thread on what I run. It collects a lot more oil than the KB does. http://modernmoparforum.com/topic/16215-my-diy-easy-drain-catch-can/
  15. I see the sales pushes on most of the car repair shows I watch for additives such as Stiction Eliminator, fuel system cleaners, fuel stabilizer, and the additive to clean intake valves on direct port injection engines. I know many, if not most, of the additives that are sold are snake oil or simply for gullible people to waste their money on. Are there any additives that we should use? I am not asking about race engines that get rebuilt every few years. I'm asking for our long-term street vehicles. And I am primarily asking those of you that work on cars every day, tear engines down weekly, and see the results of people using (or not using) specific additives. Details welcome . . .