Welcome to Modern Mopar Forum

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

CenTxRT

Members
  • Content count

    519
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

CenTxRT last won the day on July 20 2016

CenTxRT had the most liked content!

4 Followers

About CenTxRT

  • Rank
    Senior Jack Wagon
  • Birthday 08/06/1960

Recent Profile Visitors

5,867 profile views
  1. FYI in case you didn't know (I didn't) when you install a new front or rear seal around the crankshaft, the OEM seals are Teflon. Do Not put any lubricant on them, Teflon seals are supposed to be installed dry! Us old schoolers who are used to rubber seals were taught the opposite. If you don't lubricate a rubber seal it will fail sooner.
  2. Got one at local Wrench-a-Part for $14.00! Was already there to pull a 5.7 out of a Grand Cherokee and strip it to the bare block (we found a crack in mine). All machine work is done and motor will be going back together soon.
  3. Well the front cam bearing was the one that spun. This bearing also oils the chain, so it probably led to the cam dowel shearing and the cam spinning and taking out the valves. The crack in the block is probably just 5 years of hard bracket racing, and I was lucky we found it because a good block at a junk yard was $210 plus the machine work. The block I found still had cross hatch in it. It really was a very small crack but it would have expanded over time and caused even worse problems down the road. I was able to save expensive Eagle heads that had been worked over by B.E.S. and some good pistons, rings and rods and a Manley stroker crank.
  4. They were about the only good parts left. Almost every valve was bent, the springs straighten them out when they close, so it looked like they were okay, but no. Found a spun cam bearing, so we took the pistons and crank out to see if any of them had spun and found a crack in the block! I found a block at a local wrench-a-part, and it's all at the machine shop getting prepped for assembly. new valves, valve job, block, crank polished, new cam/main/rod bearings, new cam/lifters, MDS plugs, timing set, gaskets, etc. had stage 3 cam, going with stage 4 this time. Intake manifold has no crankcase vent hole on the passenger side so I'm having them mill one. Hope to get it all back next week so I can put it together.
  5. Anybody have a front cover they want to get rid of? Car one should look like this:
  6. Getting ready to install new cam/lifters. I've seen videos that say to soak them in oil 24 hrs before installation. I've seen advice that says if you soak them you risk bending pushrods at initial startup before they can bleed off. Whaddya think?? What do you do??
  7. UPDATE: I decided to pull the cam. There is enough wear on it to justify replacement. I went ahead and pulled the intake and heads tonight. Take a look at the contact marks and see what you think:
  8. Goehner, I'm having trouble finding a new dowel pin. Did you put a new pin on your cam or replace the cam?
  9. Good to know. Are the stock ones single use?
  10. UPDATE: Motor is out of the car. I have one of those hoses that lets you pump air into the cylinder to hold valves up while you change springs. I loosened all of the rocker arms so there is no pressure on the valves and shot air into each cylinder. All cylinders held pressure! Except for a little leaking past the rings into the crankcase which is normal. I think I may have dodged a bullet! I guess I need to fix the timing chain and do a compression test to see what I really have, but this is hopeful! Advice? Don't want to pull heads if I don't have to. ARP head bolts are expensive!
  11. UPDATE: Well here's a new one on me: The cam dowel pin is sheared off and the cam sprocket slipped about 70-80 degrees to the retard side. I think the dowel pin can be replaced, so I'll do that and see if it bent anything. It happened while it was idling, so maybe I dodged a bullet.
  12. Yes all valves are moving. It's a Manley double roller adjustable chain/sprocket. The sprocket on the crank is one of those ones that has multiple keyways on it so you can vary the valve timing. I wonder if it slipped out of the key and then caught again in another keyway on the sprocket. When it quit there was no engine missing, misfiring or slowing down it just quickly stalled. Or maybe the cam sprocket came loose. Looks like the front cover needs to come off. Hopefully it didn't bend any valves.
  13. Car was idling in the garage, suddenly died. Not electrical or fuel. Removed valve covers, everything is moving. Zero compression on all cylinders. Does this sound like chain or sprocket slipped? It's a bitch to take off the front cover on this motor because it has a motor plate so I have to support the motor with a cherry picker. Sounds like the front cover needs to come off though. Once again, the cam is turning but the valve timing is suddenly way off.
  14. The Brisks are holding up fine 2 or 3 full seasons! I pull them and all they need is a little cleaning. The gap has barely changed on them! I don't mind $11.00 per plug if they will last 3 years or better!