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dogonmut

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dogonmut last won the day on February 17 2013

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About dogonmut

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    Senior Jack Wagon
  • Birthday 02/28/1971
  1. Following back up on this. Turns out a pin came loose in the harness connector. It was next to impossible to notice do to the way out of reach location of the connector. Very weird but all worked out. Thanks all.
  2. Thanks for the reply. Wires are good. Correct connections 100% verified.
  3. Hello all. It's been a while since I've been around. A couple life changing events pulled me away from cars for the last couple of years. I'm now back at it, trying to get my Challenger back in order. I've run into a bit of a snag and my local resources aren't what they used to be. I posted this problem up on LX but no reply. I realized today that I should have just come here for help. My car is a 2010 Challenger SE with a motor/trans swap to a 6.1/NAG1. The motor is stock with a Magnuson supercharger pumping out about 11 pounds of boost with a 3K stall converter and SHR trans build. My exhaust is a bit custom, 3" tube with rodded out CATS, X pipe and turbo mufflers. The exhaust has been off a few times to swap the trans and rear end. All was well and has been for about 60000 miles. No ECU related issues/no codes/no check engine light/ect. Last week I pulled the exhaust to swap rear ends and install a DSS aluminum drive shaft. To drop the exhaust I disconnected the 4 stock O2 sensors and the sensor for the air/fuel gauge. No biggie. After swapping all the junk over, I wrapped it all up, reprogrammed the ECU for 3.91 gears, warmed up the motor and went for a quick test drive. About 10 miles. I hit triple digit speeds a couple of times. No issues. No check engine light. Driving surface streets to work the next day...DING...check engine light. Pulled over, plugged in my tuner tool and got code P0052 Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2, Sensor 1). I cleared the code to see if was just a hick up but it came back immediately. After work, when the car was completely cooled down, I cleared the code and it stayed clear. After about 15 miles, engine temp at 190, DING, light and code again. I had a new O2 sensor on hand so the following day I changed it and cleared the code. Same result. After about 15 miles, DING, light and code. The tune has also been completely reloaded a couple of times to rule it out. I'm running a reprogrammed OEM 09 PCM. All the O2 sensors were replaced 5ish years ago and are Bosch part number 15510. I'm kind-a stumped and feel dumb. All my research points to the PCM but that seems odd. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  4. Link---> http://www.omegamotorsport.com/#!noflyzone-arizona/cxwa Any body done this? Is it worth the stupid high registration fee? I have a feeling I'd be faster then 90% of the cars that show up in a 1/4 mile drag race but from a rolling start of 45-50, maybe not. Opinions?
  5. Thanks for the ideas and suggestions gents. If I don't come up with a 90mm by the week end I found a local source for a stock loaner. Thank you very much for the offer Fastrt09. I owe you a beer sometime.
  6. Not sure if this will help your search but the stock Magnacharger idler pulleys are Ford part # XS7G-6M250-BA.
  7. The dude I talked to at Arrington said they were out currently and it'd be about 2 weeks before they'd have any, and they already have several orders to fill as it stands. Which made me not want to hold my breath about getting one from them any time soon. I totally don't mind buying a known good used one if by chance someone has one collecting dust. A new one is fine too if there's another good option other then Arrington's offerings. I just don't particularly know of any other option then the BBK with mixed reviews. The loaner request would really only be if someone has a spare, doesn't mind lending it to me but doesn't want to sell it/wants it back.
  8. If I still had it.
  9. I need to send my throttle body back to Arrington so they can take a look at it. It's acting a little nutty. Arrington is currently out of stock on them or I'd simply buy a new one and have them repair the current one as a spare. My challenge is while it's away I need to be able to move my car in and out of the garage to work on other projects. I can live with out driving it for a while but I can't brick it. Anyone have a good used 90MM or a recommendation for a different vendors TB? I've heard mixed reviews of the BBK 90MM. Thanks, -Scott
  10. Thanks to both of you. I don't have access to that site.
  11. I've developed some ground gremlins. Super Sweet!!! I've run new 6 gauge wire from the trans to the chassis, block to the chassis and battery to the chassis. Additionally I've run 10 gauge wire from the throttle body and each head to the chassis. I need to add one from the exhaust to the chassis but didn't have the proper materials on hand to do so. I'm also going to ground the case of the ECU to the block. Is there a chassis ground under the dash? Thanks, -Scott
  12. Sorry Speedy, thought you were running 18's. You are going to love the Baers.
  13. If Brembos won't fit, I doubt Baers will. I test fit an 18" Boss wheel a year or so ago. The diameter cleared but the spokes did not. Sorry but I don't have the exact specs of the wheel but it was an 18x8 iirc. They were on a 2010 rt charger and cleared its stock brakes just fine. If you need me to measure something for you, say the word. Baer makes great products. I did not like the compound of their pads though. I switched to Hawk pads and have been very happy with the results.
  14. Fasteners, lots of off the shelf automotive stuff and lots of AN stuff too. If the hardhware isn't made in the USA they list it as such. Increadabley fast shippers with cheap shipping. If they are out of stock on an item, they ship you what they have, send you and email to let you know it's out of stock then ship it on their dime when it comes in. Can't say enough good things about these guys. Allen's Fasteners ---> http://www.allensfasteners.com Careful. The place is dangerous. It's easy to end up with 300 bucks in your cart in no time