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Micah@OST last won the day on March 29 2017

Micah@OST had the most liked content!

About Micah@OST

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    Senior Jack Wagon
  • Birthday 08/02/1992

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  1. Thank you, sir. We shall see! Shifting really didn't take much getting used to. I watched a bunch of old Japanese drag videos to see how they shifted and it came very naturally.
  2. We finally made it to the track. The DA was hovering around 2200-3200 all night. All the Skyline internet heros swore vehemently that this car would never run 10s and would only be capable of mid 12s to low 13s because "I didn't have extensive headwork/I needed at least 30psi of boost/I would need to spray it with these turbos" or simply gave no reason at all and claimed their 25 years of experience dictated it was so. Well, in typical OST Dyno fashion, we shut up the naysayers on our third pass of the night. This was also my third pass in this car ever. I knew it had 10s! Left lane: I plan on going back to the track one more time before the season is over to see if I can crack off a 10.7. Keep in mind, this car is completely stock with the exception of a set of bolt on upgraded turbos at 21psi, clutch, fuel mods, and tuning. I've never even had the valve covers off! Not bad for a first outing I can't wait for winter. The plan is to get this massive hairdryer stuffed into the engine bay and keep all accessories (PS, AC, etc). Should be a fun challenge.
  3. Thank you sir! My favorite part about that is I have more than recouped my investment in the bracket and I'm already making profit off it. Capitalism is great. I'm hoping for 10's but we'll know next weekend. That Mustang has run a 10.92 and wasn't catching back up once he got traction. Thanks, Stevo
  4. Interesting. We see temps up to 223° on the dyno during or after a pull with a factory t-stat. Even if you're not in the "hot air" tables a cooler engine means cooler IATs and a cooler supercharger. Cooler oil temps can also be a good thing depending on your oil.
  5. Thanks, guys. I finally have some more updates that are post-worthy. A few months ago I got a chance to squeeze the car on the dyno schedule between customer cars. An empty dyno is a rare occurrence so I took it. Things were going well but after we crossed the 17-18psi mark we noticed a lot of high RPM misfires that sounded like plug blowout. We cranked up the dwell and tightened the plug gap with only minor effects. The stock coils were done. At the same time, the Haltech was telling us the 600cc injectors had reached over 90% duty cycle. I decided to replace the injectors and coils with something I knew would work and keep working long after this stock bottom end reaches its limits. A log if the high RPM misfires. The car on the dyno and sitting in front of the shop. I also had to address the nasty aftermarket front bumper on the car. Thankfully, Nissan Japan still stocks OEM bumpers and lips and I was able to have one shipped to the States for the same price I sold the aftermarket bumper for. Free parts! I also repainted the tops of the headlights as they were peeling and nasty. A common issue with these cars. Finally all my performance-oriented parts arrived: an adjustable boost referenced FPR, ID1050Xs, D585 LS coils, fittings, and lines. I had to get creative and come up with a mount for the coils. I drew up a mount in CAD and had it water jetted at a local machine shop. One revision later and it's in the car. I've actually been selling these kits like hotcakes too! All the hardware is custom and makes these coils a bolt-on affair. Additionally, and most importantly, everything fits under the factory coil cover. Next I installed a lock-bar for the rear steering hydraulics. Deleting this system not only makes the car easier to align but its removes a lot of weight. I also installed adjustable rear camber arms, solid cradle collars, and replaced a couple of worn bushings. I'm doing everything I can to make sure I have no traction or wheel hop issues. Lastly, I sourced a set of OEM wheels. I've been hunting these down for ages; looking in the US, Japan, Canada, and even the UK. I finally found a set 3 hours away in Ohio! I mounted them up with some Mickey Thompson ET Street S/Ss at all four corners. I also removed the old coilovers the car came with and installed factory suspension from a 300ZX. This will help immensely with weight transfer and also allow the front end to lift up more. The car then went back on the dyno for some testing. The coil packs cured the misfire issues and we were able to crank the boost us to 22psi. We left it there while we played with ignition timing. We stayed conservative on the tune because I wanted to enjoy the car before breaking anything. I was sure some issues would pop up as well and would rather them pop up on a less aggressive tune that a hot one. We're always down to the wire with our personal cars and with the goal of attending the Flashlight Drags at 2:00, we finally unstrapped the car from the dyno around 2:30. I drove the car to the event and with no need to change tires, simply waited my turn. This is what I wanted. I hated changing tires and fuel with my Civic only to have to change everything back at the end of a long day. I made about four passes and the car performed flawlessly. I'm extremely impressed for a stock everything 25 year old car. Japan really knows how to build some cool stuff. Below are two videos of the same run against my friend's ProCharged 5.0L Mustang on ET Street S/Ss. AWD is a pretty handy thing on an unprepped track
  6. If you decide to shim it, I have a pile of different sized shims ready to install.
  7. Good work, Speedy! I love how detailed and organized your videos (and shop) is. A man after my own heart. The factory tune is definitely really aggressive. That being said, we've squeezed an extra 60whp out of bone stock (sans PCM and Trinity) Hellcats. Seeing as you could just swap your factory PCM back into the car and head to the dealer should any issues arise with the car this may be something you'd like to have.
  8. Awesome! It must be nice to remove your door bars in a few seconds and essentially have a completely stock, full exhaust, easy to drive car again that still runs 9's. And look at all that trunk space without a nitrous bottle, mount, heater, relays, wiring, etc.! Also it throws flames. Get a video of that at night when it's back on the road.
  9. Full interior, SINGLE power adder, and clutch TR6060 has to count for something though, right Howie?
  10. Does a dog engagement sequential 4-speed Liberty box really count as a stick car? An honest question from a curious observer.
  11. Another place is the charging port on the right side of the center console. Always use a relay!
  12. There should be no shimming needed with the RXT Street Twin and a factory flywheel. I've installed several with no WOT shifting issues. Maybe something else is going on that we're missing here? If you and others in this thread are having trouble with clutch disengagement please refer to my WOT shifting thread. Feel free to email me if you have any more questions on this. http://modernmoparforum.com/topic/18268-how-to-make-your-6-speed-wot-shift/
  13. Thank you, guys! So I have to apologize for the following pictures. I have been working on the car in my poorly lit personal garage because there is no room in the shop for personal stuff right now. The wiring under the dash was horrible but not at all irreversible. The turbo timer and toll collector were removed and everything else was rerouted. I hate poor wiring. Before: After Next on the list was the poor fuel pump wiring. A previous owner had bypassed the factory voltage booster (yes, they utilized these back in '90s Japan) and wired in an external relay in a very backyard manner. Not gonna fly here. Everything was returned to stock. Before: After: After the wiring was cleaned up I dug into the tank to see what sort of pump we were running half expecting it to be an aftermarket unit. Nope! Stock. Out it went for a Walbro 450lph pump. Now, I'm not a fan of these ricer-esque air filters but they came on the car and rather than buy new filters or try to remake this piping for a more subtle filter, I decided to simply rebuild what I have. The twin turbos won't be on the car long anyway. New elements for the HKS "Super Power Flow" filters run about $90 and entire new units are $180 each. And I need two! Thankfully Uni makes filter element sheets which worked out perfectly. Now that the car is all cleaned up, oil changed, and all necessary drivetrain fluids on standby I pulled the trigger on an EMS we could actually tune. Unfortunately, the HKS unit the car came with can only be tuned by an elite group of HKS certified tuners of which we are not. A few phone calls later and we are Haltech dealers and a Haltech Elite 2000 Plug 'n' Play is ordered. I've never had anything this nice and this new as far tech goes so I'm extremely excited! After installation the car will go on the dyno for what is undoubtedly going to be a very in depth tuning session. With the HKS turbos, exhaust, massive intercooler, and newly discovered HKS 600cc injectors I'm hoping to crack the 500 awhp mark. According to our calcs, this is the amount needed to put the car into the high 10s which is my goal for this year.
  14. Thank for the nice picture of our product! Do you mind if I save that off for future use? modernmoparforum.com***/topic/18268-how-to-make-your-6-speed-wot-shift/ Remove the three asterisks. The new forum format thinks I'm posting a post quote when I link the thread.
  15. Refer to my "How to Make Your 6-Speed WOT Shift" thread if you need more information. We did a lot of testing on this subject.