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Micah@OST

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Micah@OST last won the day on March 29

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About Micah@OST

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    Senior Jack Wagon
  • Birthday 08/02/1992

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  1. Good work, Speedy! I love how detailed and organized your videos (and shop) is. A man after my own heart. The factory tune is definitely really aggressive. That being said, we've squeezed an extra 60whp out of bone stock (sans PCM and Trinity) Hellcats. Seeing as you could just swap your factory PCM back into the car and head to the dealer should any issues arise with the car this may be something you'd like to have.
  2. Awesome! It must be nice to remove your door bars in a few seconds and essentially have a completely stock, full exhaust, easy to drive car again that still runs 9's. And look at all that trunk space without a nitrous bottle, mount, heater, relays, wiring, etc.! Also it throws flames. Get a video of that at night when it's back on the road.
  3. Full interior, SINGLE power adder, and clutch TR6060 has to count for something though, right Howie?
  4. Does a dog engagement sequential 4-speed Liberty box really count as a stick car? An honest question from a curious observer.
  5. Another place is the charging port on the right side of the center console. Always use a relay!
  6. There should be no shimming needed with the RXT Street Twin and a factory flywheel. I've installed several with no WOT shifting issues. Maybe something else is going on that we're missing here? If you and others in this thread are having trouble with clutch disengagement please refer to my WOT shifting thread. Feel free to email me if you have any more questions on this. http://modernmoparforum.com/topic/18268-how-to-make-your-6-speed-wot-shift/
  7. Thank you, guys! So I have to apologize for the following pictures. I have been working on the car in my poorly lit personal garage because there is no room in the shop for personal stuff right now. The wiring under the dash was horrible but not at all irreversible. The turbo timer and toll collector were removed and everything else was rerouted. I hate poor wiring. Before: After Next on the list was the poor fuel pump wiring. A previous owner had bypassed the factory voltage booster (yes, they utilized these back in '90s Japan) and wired in an external relay in a very backyard manner. Not gonna fly here. Everything was returned to stock. Before: After: After the wiring was cleaned up I dug into the tank to see what sort of pump we were running half expecting it to be an aftermarket unit. Nope! Stock. Out it went for a Walbro 450lph pump. Now, I'm not a fan of these ricer-esque air filters but they came on the car and rather than buy new filters or try to remake this piping for a more subtle filter, I decided to simply rebuild what I have. The twin turbos won't be on the car long anyway. New elements for the HKS "Super Power Flow" filters run about $90 and entire new units are $180 each. And I need two! Thankfully Uni make filter element sheets which worked out perfectly. Now that the car is all cleaned up, oil changed, and all necessary drivetrain fluids on standby I pulled the trigger on an EMS we could actually tune. Unfortunately, the HKS unit the car came with can only be tuned by an elite group of HKS certified tuners of which we are not. A few phone calls later and we are Haltech dealers and a Haltech Elite 2000 Plug 'n' Play is ordered. I've never had anything this nice and this new as far tech goes so I'm extremely excited! After installation the car will go on the dyno for what is undoubtedly going to be a very in depth tuning session. With the HKS turbos, exhaust, massive intercooler, and newly discovered HKS 600cc injectors I'm hoping to crack the 500 awhp mark. According to our calcs, this is the amount needed to put the car into the high 10s which is my goal for this year.
  8. Thank for the nice picture of our product! Do you mind if I save that off for future use? modernmoparforum.com***/topic/18268-how-to-make-your-6-speed-wot-shift/ Remove the three asterisks. The new forum format thinks I'm posting a post quote when I link the thread.
  9. In addition to our in-house complete installation packages we have developed what we call "Starter Packs". The purpose of these is to allow owners to easily install our set of proven bolt-on parts in their home garages. These will quickly turn your Hellcat into a potent track car! See the full details on our website: www.ostdyno.com/hellcat-performanceLevel 1 - $1,946 Driveshaft Shop 4" Aluminum Driveshaft Bravado Tribute Wheels - Matte Back 305/45/18 Mickey Thompson ET Street R Tires Slim Lug Nuts & Key for Bravado Wheels Level 2 - $3,486 Unlocked PCM and Diablosport Trinity Custom OST Dyno Email Tune 180° thermostat Driveshaft Shop 4" Aluminum Driveshaft Bravado Tribute Wheels - Matte Back 305/45/18 Mickey Thompson ET Street R Tires Slim Lug Nuts & Key for Bravado Wheels Level 3 - $5,327 Unlocked PCM and Diablosport Trinity Custom OST Dyno Email Tune 180° thermostat Driveshaft Shop 4" Aluminum Driveshaft Metco 2.85 supercharger pulley Gates Heavy Duty Belt Racestar 18x5 Darkstars (Front Runners) Racestar Shank Lugs M&H Racemaster Front Tires Bravado Tribute Wheels - Matte Back 305/45/18 Mickey Thompson ET Street R Tires Slim Lug Nuts & Key for Bravado Wheels
  10. Refer to my "How to Make Your 6-Speed WOT Shift" thread if you need more information. We did a lot of testing on this subject.
  11. Thanks, buddy! Agreed. Thank you, sir! Thank you. Me neither! I have no idea. I'm very anxious to get it on the dyno but I am still waiting to hear back from the state about my plates and registration. I've been practicing WOT shifts in the garage. It'll take some getting used to for sure.
  12. Thank you, guys! No, not this year! Maybe in the future.
  13. Now, I know you are all Mopar muscle car guys so this post may not be of interest to the majority of you, but some of you may think it’s cool. This has been a dream of mine for a long time. I have always been a huge fan of classic Japanese cars; specifically ones that we never got here in the States. You always want what you can’t have I suppose. A car must be 25 years old to legally import into the country and even still, the import process was said to be grueling and a huge headache. However, with one of the most iconic cars turning 25 a few years ago I had to get my hands on one. Not only is this an iconic car but, being the drag racing enthusiast we are, it fit the bill for my next project. The hunt was on for a Series 2 R32 Nissan Skyline GTR in black. No other colors would be considered. For those unaware, these cars are equipped with AWD and a twin turbo 2.6L inline 6-cylinder. We already have a BW S475 sitting on the shelf to replace the twins down the road. There are many places to pick up a Skyline: Canada, Australia, the UK, Japan, and even America with the few that have trickled in already. I really wanted to try my hand at importing one from the Motherland as prices were much lower and it has a certain excitement factor to it. I did keep my eye out for any in the Great North and the US just in case. After researching the cars themselves and different exporters for many months I finally decided I was ready around November of 2016. I sent in my security deposit to Pacific Coast Auto. They are a Japan-based exporter run by a Canadian. This was a big plus for me as there would be no language barrier. After many midnight emails about the details of what I was looking for we began hunting for cars on the Japanese car auctions. Bids were placed and auctions lost until we finally scored a win around the end of January 2017. The car was definitely a “roll the dice” car. When you bid on a car at auction in a country on the other side of the world you get four crappy pictures accompanied by an auction sheet that may or may not be totally correct. The sheet showed the car had higher Km’s than people are typically interested in. There was also a line showing an unknown amount of condition of corrosion on the rear wheel arch, and the wrong color listed for the cars VIN and pictures. It sounded pretty rough but there was something that stood out; the one and only note the seller wrote about the car was “HKS V-Cam System”. Everyone knows that HKS is the top of the line in the import world and a quick Google search showed this aftermarket VVT system retails at $4,000 for the base level kit. We took a chance that the car was owned by a wealthy individual and chose not to trust the auction sheet about the condition. I had the hope he took good care of a car he obviously spared no expense on. When PCA received the car they took about 100 pictures and several videos for me. I was floored. This car was MINT! And that rust spot? Only the size of a nickel with no other rust to speak of anywhere. That’s pretty rare for a 25-year old Japanese car from an island. The car also had HKS turbochargers, an HKS PCM, HKS turbo piping, HKS boost controller, a 4” thick and massive intercooler, stainless exhaust, equal-length downpipes, multi-plate clutch, and many other bits. Everything was top tier brands. It's also clear from the workmanship that the previous owner took care of this car. What a blessing! The car then went through Japanese Customs and deregistration. From there it sat at port in Japan until late-February. During its shipment all I could do was cross my fingers as I tracked its path across the Pacific, through the Panama Canal, up through the Caribbean, and finally up the East coast. The car finally arrived at the Port of Baltimore on April 5th and cleared Customs without a hitch a few days later. On April 10th my dad and I bombed our way to Baltimore, loaded up the car, and flew home the same day. The workload at the shop with CF8 around the corner didn’t allow for any poking! I’m so happy with the car. Ecstatic. I’ve gone over every inch of the car and I’m confident that it is one of the cleanest examples you will find without spending $40k for a time capsule car. Sure, it needs some TLC and the OST treatment but that’s the fun of it! We’ll get it cleaned, up to OST standards, and hauling down the drag strip in no time. Enjoy the pictures! Auction sheet: At the port: Our first ever view of the car in person: Loading up! Finally home:
  14. The runners are in long runner mode by default. If you had a dyno you could run it up with the runners short and then again with the runners long. Where the paths cross is where you want the runners to switch from long to short. This would also confirm which runner you have as a default in case they did something different with the wiring.
  15. We use stock rotors and factory replacement pads to stop our rig from over 150mph. I'd say that's a pretty good combo!