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ChrisNCT

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About ChrisNCT

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    Senior Jack Wagon
  • Birthday 09/30/1975
  1. Coming back to CT from a show in Vermont yesterday, if I can remember correctly I saw a steady 230 degrees (87 degrees outside). Cruising speeds on highway between 80-105 for 3-1/2 hours.
  2. I have one that i used for about a week before I went to the Arrington CAI. It's just sitting in my garage in a bin. Send me postage and you can have it. ​ ​ ​
  3. Want to add an Ignition hot circuit to your 2009 (& similiar year) Dodge Challenger R/T? Using your vehicles existing Fuse Boxed, you can add a dedicated circuit that will look factory. This connector slides and locks right into the factory plug under the fuse box and will give you a Safe Fused circuit that will turn off and on via the ignition. Will come with printed installation directions, Molex pin with properly crimped 12" long 18AWG wire as seen in this picture. I accept PayPal and Postal Money Orders. Price: $6.00 shipped to the lower 48 U.S. States. Email to tfleming05@snet.net or messaging system to get ahold of me.
  4. I am looking to put together a Hellcat Fascia on my R/T for functional use of the venting. I am looking into Mishimoto Oil Sandwich plate and coolers but I need to find out what thread we have on our cars to get the right adaptor. Mishimoto currently sells M20 x 1.5mm or 3/4" - 16TPI Can you guys help?
  5. Got a question. After installing a Pro Torque 2800 stall Convertor and Southern Hot Rod Stage 4 NAG1 Transmission I am getting idling RPMS that differ. Here's what I am experiencing. Lets say I am stuck at a traffic light. I look at my RPMS and they are holding 760-800ish. I can drive for awhile and hit another light and can hear the cars engine go lower in RPMS. When I look at the RPM gauge it dips down fast to 500 and holds. Seems really low. Could the Torque Convertor put that much load on the Engine to cause it to drop in RPMS when idling? If so then why I not consistent every time I stop? Other things that I am experiencing is dimming headlights. I have replaced the battery with the new 750 CCA Mopar battery 2 months ago. I also upgraded the Transmission and Battery Ground cables. My voltage shows 14.6ish when running in the EVIC. I have cleaned the nut, clamp terminal and screw to make sure they both have good metal contact. Any ideas before I take it to the dealer which doesn't want to touch it anyhow with all the mods that I have done? Bad enough I have to take it to them to find out why the airbag light is staying on. I just replaced bunch of stuff like steering wheel angle sensor (told by dealer that was the issue with blinker not disengaging, but it ended up being the airbag clock spring. Replaced airbag clock spring (broken tab) and all 4 wheel speed sensors (1 went bad). This morning I get my ABS and Squiggly back on my way to work even after replacing all 4 wheel speed sensors. I CANT WIN
  6. I am looking for assistance. I have been adding a bunch of things to the car since it lost it transmission back last September. As far as the drivetrain I have added... Driveshaft Shop Carbon Fiber 1pc Driveshaft Arrington Purchase (SHR Stage 4) NAG1 Transmission Pro Torque 2800 stall Converter B&M Racing Deep Transmission Pan B&M Racing Hi-Tek Transmission Cooler Petty's Garage Transmission Cross Member Brace The car was lowered on the ground now and had been started and let run for 20 minutes several times. I have been shifting from Park, Reverse, Drive and Neutral just to get everything moving to make sure there are no issues. What I notice is that when holding the brake down and shifting into drive, the car feels like it jumps a bit. I don't think it rolled at all, it just feels like it want to go on it's own. Kind of like the gas pedal is pressed a bit. It does the same in reverse. I know it's been 5 months but I just don't remember the car wanting to pull that much when you release the brake. I can't test the car outside yet because of all the snow that we are still getting so I am limited to the garage space which is moving forward 5 feet and then reversing 10 feet. Is this common for Stage 4 transmissions and/ or with the 2800 stall converter?
  7. 2009 Challenger R/T Chin Spolier in CT only! I have this chin spoiler from replacing mine with a 392 6.4. It has scratches on the underside and maybe some tar spots that can be removed. It is a daily driver car so it has marks, scratches..etc. If you broke yours or just want parts, then this is for you. I will not ship this thing. This is for pickup free in Connecticut. The chin will also come with the 2 end pieces. If someone doesn't end up taking it, then I will be chopping it up with my sawzall and tossing it. I am tired of parts hanging around. Private message me if interested.
  8. Still have everything. Here's an update on some lowered prices. OEM 5.7 Driveshaft with Rubber Couplers and the (12) bolts. You will need to reuse your (2) bearing housing bolts. $120.00 (you will need to reassemble the 2 pcs) OEM Flexplate with Torque Converter and Crankshaft bolts. $20.00 OEM Tail Light Harness. No Bulbs. $5.00 OEM Transmission Pan with clamps. No Screws. $10.00 OEM NAG1 Transmission Crossmember Support $10.00 OEM NAG1 Transmission Locking Tube Cap $1.00 OEM Oil Dipstick $1.00 4 OEM Wheel Speed Sensors. Used. Only 1 was bad (Right Rear but I changed all of them) $8.00 for 3 good ones. OEM Steering Wheel Angle Sensor $5.00 OEM Shiter Knob $5.00 OEM Shifter Plate $5.00 OEM Battery Ground and Transmission Grounds. These are the new updated cables when they had the notices for Hot Engine Cranking problems. $5.00 OEM "A" Pillars. Drivers side and passengers side. $15.00 for the set NEW OEM Rear Console Panel with the vents. $15.00
  9. Thanks those that helped. I had ordered the fittings and they ended up not working out. I ended up putting 2 AN Fittings w/ compression ferrules that converts the hard lines to -6 AN. I attached my braided lines directly to those.
  10. I snagged the driveshaft! 01/22/2015 *************Didn't fit my application, working for a fix. We'll see as I may not be able to use it after all*************
  11. I have a small assortment of parts available. These are take off's from an 09' Challenger A5 R/T. So they are mostly USED parts. Any details are enclosed within the items description. OEM Flexplate with Torque Converter and Crankshaft bolts. $25.00 OEM Tail Light Harness. No Bulbs. $8.00 OEM Transmission Pan with clamps. No Screws. $15.00 OEM NAG1 Transmission Crossmemebr Support $20.00 OEM NAG1 Transmission Locking Tube Cap $2.00 OEM Oil Dipstick $2.00 4 OEM Wheel Speed Sensors. Used. Only 1 was bad (Right Rear but I changed all of them) $10.00 for 3 good ones . OEM Steering Wheel Angle Sensor $8.00 OEM Shiter Knob $8.00 OWM Shifter Plate $8.00 OEM Battery Ground and Transmission Ground. These are the new updated cables when they had the notices for Hot Engine Cranking problems. $5.00 OEM "A" Pillars. Drivers side and passengers side. $15.00 for the set NEW OEM Rear Console Panel with the vents. $15.00 All prices are just the items. Not shipping costs. Most of the items will be shipped flat rate USPS Priority Mail to give an idea on cost ($6.00 smaller box - $18.00 larger box) Email me or PM if interested. My email is tfleming05@snet.net I accept Cash, Postal Money Orders or Paypal with 4% fee added.
  12. Looks to be 0.625 in diameter and approx. 3 threads per 1/8". So 5/8"-24TPI? I'm think it's a 5/8"-18TPI though. Then again if it's Metric, I am completely lost. Due to the flares, compression and other types of thread styles... they just make me nervous because I don't know anything about them.
  13. I have posted on another forums and cannot even get an answer so I am trying here. It seems as though you guys here go into a bit more of the detail as far as components and replacements. I am installing a B&M HiTek Transmission Cooling Unit. I don't want to cut and flare the OEM return transmission line in front of that OEM Cooler Bypass Valve so I want to utilize the female threads in that cooler bypass valve entry hole going back to the transmission and the line's male thread. This way I stay in the "cold" return side of the temperature controlled switch (valve) within that Cooler Bypass Valve. Does anyone know the size of the thread sizes on that OEM Cooler Bypass Valve? It looks like all 4 ports are the same thread size. Here's a shot of what I am talking about for those getting ready to this process too. It's # 4 (MOPAR # 55111005AA) in the parts schematic. I am getting together my list of -8AN Stainless Braided Hose, 1/2" NPT to -8AN Fittings, -8AN Hose Ends... so all I need is to convert the -8AN hose to those threads going into the OEM Cooler Bypass Valve. Then I need to find those fittings if they even exist. Can you guys offer help?