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Dave Weber

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  1. Bh hh
  2. We have new improved factory castings with new water jacket design and better material than previous heads. These are a direct bolt on with proper clearance
  3. We have new improved factory castings with new water jacket design and better material than previous heads. These are a direct bolt on.
  4. New castings in stock
  5. ENGINE START UP AND BREAK IN Before starting engine be sure to have a proper startup tune for the engine package and injector size you are using. Never start a modified engine with larger injectors with a stock tune. It is recommended that you use a vacuum fill system for filling coolant to ensure no air is in system. Use a quality conventional oil or a break in oil for first 500 miles. conventional – Shell Rotella, Valvoline, Pennzoil Break in oils – Comp cams or Joe Gibbs oil weight will vary 10/30 or 15/40 depending on engine package It is highly recommended you prime oil system through filter side of oil gallery and rotate engine to get oil to lifters and valve train before starting. If we have all the fluids and a proper tune we are ready to start Start engine and let run at high idle to bring up to operating temperature. After first temperature cycle shut engine of and check fluid levels and a general visual of engine. Start and heat cycle a second time. Always make sure you have good heat in it before putting load to engine. OK we are now ready to put some load to the engine. If you are confident in your baseline tune you can drive or dyno and put some load on the engine. We do not want to run it a long time at light load as this will not let rings seat properly. I would run the car at a good part throttle load a few times increasing RPM each time. Now some WOT runs at short RPM intervals 5000, 5500, then redline. I do recommend a AF gauge be used even a portable to make sure the fuel settings are in a range to run the engine under load without harming it. To lean makes heat and to rich can wash the rings out and they will not seal. It is also important that timing tables are also properly set, as to little timing will not burn fuel and to much can cause detonation. I would change oil filter after a hundred miles and then change oil and filter at 500 miles. Dave 276-666-1934 Check our section for tools
  6. Agreed you also have centrifugal vs twin screw with a completely different boost curve.
  7. Hey Don we never sleep couldn't resist
  8. The Drag pack is machined for injectors and has cast in supports similar to the 6.1 manifold for fuel rails The Ritter intake needs to be machined for injectors and a system to support fuel rails. Provisions for MAP also need to be added. FYI this is a shelf item as cast and machined for EFI. If you want to shoot me an email I can send you pictures of both. We are getting ready to dyno a MM stage 3 6.1 intake to a ported Rittter intake on a 462 NA next week so stay tuned.