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Everything posted by Speedy

  1. Done racing or got a new setup?
  2. Hell yeah man way to bang some gears. Put a helmet on son!
  3. That's good news! That 6.0L bullet you guys built for Orange Krush was an amazing engine and surprised a bunch of folks with how well it performed. New owner of the car is still enjoying it. You guys should sign up as vendors here and do some group buys/services and what not and consider attending ChallengerFest in April to shake some hands and make some contacts. Lemme know if you guys want to consider a booth or something like that.
  4. Picked up a 4" aluminum dampened drive shaft from DSS. Nice piece, easy install, fit like a glove. No noise or vibrations up to 150MPH.
  5. Good stuff, and some good information on how 22s effect things as well!
  6. Yep, right over the stripes. Just added a very subtle sheen and deepened the black a bit. Mine seems to shed water no problem, but I avoid rain.
  7. When I had the installer come do Xpel clear protective film on the Hellcat, he highly recommended I consider a ceramic coating as well. Xpel thread/video here: I decided to have him come back out after several friends also recommended the ceramic and swear by its ability to make the car so much easier to clean up.It's impressive stuff for sure. The installer cleaned the car, did a quick paint correction to insure no swirls or imperfections were sealed in, and installed the ceramic. The car had a decent shine to it before, but it was crazy watching it buff to a very high gloss like a just waxed vehicle has. It's super slick to the touch and water just falls off. Went right over the stripes, Xpel PPF, and trim. I asked him the difference between the pro stuff and the consumer, and he said the consumer version is a heavily "watered down" product. The pro stuff can flash cure if it hits any water spots, and if you don't buff it properly will harden and leave marks that take a high level of polishing with a cutting compound to correct, and sometimes even wet sanding if bad enough and the companies producing it don't want the liability so to get the pro stuff you have to go through training and get accredited. Sounds reasonable to me, but just repeating what he told me. He did hit a small water spot by the back bumper where water hid under the panel lip. He did get out his polisher to correct it and reapply a bit of product.
  8. Mine is guaranteed for 7 years, but installer said for me it would pretty much last forever. It just slowly wears away, no need to strip.
  9. Mine got ceramic coated so no more waxing for me, but without that I think it depends on the type of wax. Id suggest skipping that o'l wax on wax off mess and look into a coating like cquartz if ya wanna do it yourself.
  10. I had always avoided clear bras because they seemed to be very noticeable and even yellow over time. However, I wanted to try to keep the rock chips to a minimum on Go Man Go, so I started reading up on them and found a local guy who really seemed to know his stuff and assured me that new products solved both problems and he recommended and used Xpel Ultimate. I decided to give it a whirl. If your local, this guy is the shizzle. The install is perfect and you guys know how OCD I am. It is flat out invisible. The installer uses only machine cut templates that exactly match the vehicle, and he surgically trimmed around the stripes so you can not tell where they meet. Same for the hood vent. Glad modern materials have solved the old problems. Now I don't have to worry about rock chips like I've had in the past. If you want to have this done, here are things I learned that make it much more invisible: 1. Machine Cut Templates ONLY - matches the car and you don't have someone trying to cut the material on the car to match 2. Wrapped edges (more protection and hides the edge) 3. No 3M. I'm told 3M has an orange peel look to it and is real thick which makes the line more visible 4. Make sure they know what they're doing on any trimming - my guy never actually cut the material, he used a scoring technique that allowed the material to break along an edge so scratching the paint was never a risk. I'm probably gonna have him come back and do a GTECHNIQ ceramic coating on the car. He told me a little about it while he was at the shop, and I did some reading. It'll bond with the paint and lasts 7 or so years, no waxing, no bird poop damage, and you can practically hose it off to get it clean it's so slick. The material is installed in this picture:
  11. With as expensive as the material is, and watching the professional wrestle with mine for 4 hours, I'd not want to do it myself, that's for sure. Looked like it took experience to figure out how to make the material move the way it needed to around all the bends, etc and not create fingers or look off from body lines. He used razors, heat gun, lube, steam gun, etc to make it all work.
  12. I used a real clay holder that went on a DA a while back. Honestly, it was overkill and you were just as likely to fling the clay across the shop as you were to actually clay the car LOL. Doing it by hand was so fast it didn't make sense to try to use a machine unless the paint was just destroyed and needed a lot of work. I'm assuming what you're referring to is a synthetic clay pad though.
  13. Tried out some new products - synthetic clay and Opti Seal. I think both have their place, but the synthetic clay likely won't do a good enough job on a neglected paint finish and you'll want to use real clay in those cases. Jury's still out on the Opti Seal. It's not super slick like I hoped it would be, but it does bead/sheet water very well. For the cost and 15 minutes it takes to apply, if if lasts 6 months it's worth it I think. I'd like to find a similar wipe on product that requires little to no buffing that dries to a harder, slicker finish.
  14. A lot of folks ask how I keep the paint swirl and scratch free and a lot of it boils down to how you wash the vehicle. NEVER run it through one of those auto wash machines that slap the car with brushes or strips. Unless your ceramic coated, I'd not recommend touchless unless it's just a dire emergency as the soaps used can be so harsh they'll actually remove any standard wax you may have applied. Once ceramic coated, it's no big deal though. Two bucket wash method is key. Foam gun makes it fast and easy. Just got one and love it. I'd rather be out driving than cleaning, so I take advantage of all shortcuts.
  15. Sweet, get the boost down to around 7-8 I'm guessing? What size pulley did it take to get it there and what was the original size? I think you're kind of the path blazer on the 2650 at present.
  16. That should be a fun street brawler. What all did they change other than tweaking the tune?
  17. I'm going to look more in to the real OTC coatings that you don't polish/buff. I think there are some that last 12 months and are kind of watered down versions of things like Opti Coat and Gtechnique Crystal Serum.
  18. I just watched a video on the Polish Angel, I'm way past doing any of that anymore LOL. If it's not a 15 - 30 minute application I'm out, I'll have it ceramic coated if it goes past that. As long as the paint's protected I'm happy. I did Mrs. Speedy's car with the Opti Seal and it's her daily so we'll see how long it lasts, but for a 15 minute time investment and $30 for the product if it lasts 6 mos I'm thrilled. I just wish it was a little more "slick" feeling.
  19. for those instances, ceramic coating is probably the best option. They paint correct, then apply so looks good and done. Then you just run it through a touchless when you think about it and it's clean and scratch free. I used to really get in to detailing, and "could" spend 9-10 hours on one car. OCD ran rampant. I'd work so hard I wouldn't wanna drive it and get it dirty and it drove me nuts so I had to back off a little and started using every short cut in the book these days so I can spend more time driving. What product from Polish Angel? I took a look and they have several. Any WOWA stuff that you like? Opti Seal definitely seals the car, next video will have that in it and I've already done it (will publish next Sat). It sheets water great, however it doesn't have that super slick just waxed feeling about it. Very easy to apply though. Took me 15 mins to do the whole car.
  20. My o'l faithful Shoei helmet from back in my motorcycle riding days finally crapped the bed at the end of last season. The foam liner literally disintegrated and got all over the place, in my hair, in the car, everywhere. I tossed it in the trash after my last pass. Looking at new ones and I think I like the Simpson offerings. I need to see if a local shop has any I can try on for sizing. I was eyeballing this one: Simpson Super Bandit = SA2015 certified, gonna get Flat Black in color: Or this one which is just the "Bandit" and save $100 or so bucks. I'm not sure what the difference is? Finally considering this Street Bandit, which I believe is a motorcycle helmet as it is M2010 certified. Good enough for drag strip, but "might" limit me if I ever wanted to do mile racing as their rules require SA2015 (Thanks Sammy for that). I liked it for the better visibility. I don't understand why the Mile folks wouldn't support a motorcycle helmet, seems you're more likely to get a head injury on a bike. This one is cheaper by about $150, so maybe the ones above do have some extra "stuff". I'm gonna do some reading up this week to make a decision, but curious what you guys know?
  21. What's the timing and IATS look like. Torque? Nice number on the HP for 7psi.
  22. With a good tune it'll live a long time on 8psi. Always use race fuel at the track when beating on it.
  23. I've not dyno'd it but the onboard readout said 663HP and 579TQ in one of my videos. Pretty accurate based on what folks get on the dyno. I've only ran the car down the track twice back at CF8. Ran a 11.55 at 124 with a terrible 2.1 60'. I've learned a few things about the car since then and my new goal is a 10.80 setup like the old car. We'll see how it does here soon, just waiting on a drive shaft
  24. Ok went back and caught up, missed a few posts somehow. Stock 5.7 with Edelbrock, SRT exhaust stuff, maybe a cam, maybe not. I'd definitely tune it on 8psi.....I'm gonna guess 515RWHP with torque close to match on 93 pump gas and 545RWHP with torque to match on 109 race fuel.