Welcome to Modern Mopar Forum

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

Bright White R/T

Members
  • Content count

    28
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Bright White R/T

  • Rank
    Jack Wagon

Recent Profile Visitors

943 profile views
  1. I'm needing to flush my clutch/brake fluid as my clutch pedal gets soft when running at the track making it difficult to shift.... Draining the master cylinder reservoir is pretty straight forward...... does anyone have any tricks or recommendations for siphoning the brake fluid out of the slave cylinder without having to separate the trans from the engine to compress the slave cylinder.... thanks- rich
  2. On the rears, the 20x9 with the +20 offset and the 275 wheels will fit with no issues, you can even go up to 305 on the rear.... On the fronts however, depending on the brand of tire, the 275's may scrub the knuckle..... I had to put 3mm spacers on the front of my R/T. My wheels are 20x9, +20 offset and I run General G-Max AS-03 tires....
  3. 5170742AA would this be the part number for the SRT radiator that was was discussed in other responses above?....
  4. Why are the side walls scrubbed about 1-1 1/2 inches down?
  5. Are you guys running these for drag tires or street tires?
  6. Needing to upgrade injectors....I am at the upper limit of duty cycle and don't want to melt any pistons. I have the option of DeatschWerks or AFIS Power. My current injectors are DeatschWerks only because that's what was included in the S/C kit I installed (Whipple) I'm currently using a 65 lb/hr injector.... using DeatschWerks' calculator and leaving margin in duty cycle and for growth I am look at a 95 lb/hr injector. Admittedly injectors and injector brands are an area that I know little to nothing about.... Which of these is the preferred brand or if there is a better option, please share your experience/knowledge. thanks- rich
  7. I put a Whipple on my stock 5.7 M6 before I stroked and forged it. I was able to order it from Autoanything.com for the 5.7 M6.
  8. Eddie..... it's been a year already since we dolled up The Mistress.....
  9. would you mind if I asked which one? kind of interested in seeing what's out there....
  10. I think there might be otherwise why different p/n for the master but not the slave?
  11. Something to share and a question for Micah.... I've been having the same disengagment issues with both a McLeod and lately a CenterForce. I was about to throw up my hands and just go the route of an OEM Hellcat clutch...... In the process of investigating part numbers, I've learned that the Hellcat uses a different clutch master than the R/T, Scat Pack, etc..... Before taking the plunge on the Hellcat PP, disc, clutch master, etc, I ordered a clutch master and installed it (with my CF clutch)..... I can't say that it has eliminated 100% of the disengagement issue, but it has definitely made a noticeable improvement without any perceptible increase in pedal pressure IMO. Maybe you might want to continue your R&D by putting a Hellcat clutch master in the mix and see if that further improves anything? If you do let me know I will share the p/n with you. My question: Does the McLeod TOB that you are offering include the adapter fittings to allow it to fit up with the Challenger? thanks- rich
  12. so, if shims under a stock TOB don't have an affect on the disengagement, would putting in a master cylinder that moves a greater volume of fluid cause the stock TOB to travel further?
  13. I have a 392 pushing ~680 hp/580 ft-lb to the wheels thru a M6 with the 3.92 LS Getrag. I run 28x10x17 Hoosier Drag Slicks. Best 1/4 mile is 11.602 sec at mid/upper 100 teens..... I can't not spin off the line, so I am wanting to change the rear ratio. When I do the math, it says 3.55:1 rear gear should put me where I want to be speed-wise, but I am concerned that the ratio is too high and will hurt my ET. 3.55 is 10% higher ratio than 3.92 and 3.73 is 5% higher than 3.92...... which is the better route to go? 3.55 or 3.73? looking for better launch, bigger top end but not hurt the ET (if that's possible). thanks- rich
  14. My first thought was regearing the the trans to ratios similar to the '13&up GT500...... 2.66:1 first gear, 1.82:1 second gear, 1.3:1 third etc vs the current 2.97:1 first and 2.10:1 second, 1.46:1 third .... I think the GT500 gearing is very similar to the CTS-V but I've never regeared a trans...I've rebuilt and re-geared rear ends... so that's why I started leaning toward the 3:55 rear end...... When you multiply the current trans ratios by (3.55/3.92) the resulting effective ratios (between the trans and the rear end) are very similar to those in the GT500/CTS-V with my current 3.92 rear end..... yes.... my current power is right at 700 rwhp....
  15. I hear what you are saying.... with the 392 and blower I spin the tires off the line at the drag strip entirely through first gear regardless of tire pressure. (hoosier drag slicks 28x10/17) Second gear is too tall and launches in second gear kill the 60' and ET.... When i do the math, it seems like the 5% difference between 3.73 and 3.92 isn't enough.... but the 10% difference between 3:55 and 3:92 will get me more inline with what I hope to accomplish..... not spinning completely in 1st gear on the launch and slightly faster ET and speed through the traps..... would like to hear your thoughts... rich