Welcome to Modern Mopar Forum

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

Bruce*

Members
  • Content count

    44
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Bruce* last won the day on November 16 2016

Bruce* had the most liked content!

About Bruce*

  • Rank
    Jack Wagon

Recent Profile Visitors

1,192 profile views
  1. I was able to completely disable the TC with the trinity. Not sure what the issue is. Is there any advantage of activating the TC after your burnout?
  2. Pulled off a 10.73 sec pass @ 128 mph with a 1.78 60'. That was my best pass of the night and my first pass. I got the new slicks and my burnout was mediocre at best....having trouble with my race tune not completley disabling my TC. My second pass was 11.01 and the remaining 2 passes were duds. I think the track prep was decent to start, but as the night went on it stated to get slick. Does anyone enable their TC after after they do their burnout? My last pass I got half way down the track and lost all my boost. I hope my new bypass valve didn't crap out on me.
  3. yeah, I'm hoping the new slicks do the trick. If not, then I'm not sure what else to do...I guess a suspension upgrade would be helpful.
  4. Made it to the track the other night and the best I could do was 11.01 @ 126 mph with a 1.78 60'. Traction is still the issue. This particular pass was the last one of the night and after I added about 100 pounds in the trunk. I was down to 16 psi on the slicks. The slicks that I'm using are Hoosier 28 x 10, but they are probably 5-6 years old. I think that could be part of my problem, so I'm planning on ordering a new set to try out the next time I hit the track. I have lakewood 70/30 shocks up front and lighter springs. The back is stock except for solid cradle bushings.
  5. The inline fuel filter did the trick. No more blowing fluid all underneath the car. This is what i used.
  6. If the inline fuel filter doesn't work then i was wondering if this would work.
  7. Ever since the install of the 8.8 I've had issues with diff fluid spewing all underneath the rear of my car. I had Erik change out my gears a year ago and I finally got around to changing the fluid for the first time. When I drained the fluid there was about 1 quart that came out. It should hold 1.8 quarts, so after about 3000 miles I lost almost a quart of fluid. I looked around on the internet and found a possible solution. I used an inline fuel filter and installed it backwards on the end of the vent hose. I cut about half the hose off so the filter would be sitting vertical and any fluid that is trapped in the filter can drain back into the housing. I just put this on not to long ago, so we'll see how it works. I know some people use a catch can, but this will be much better if it works.
  8. Made it to the track once so far and was having issues with losing boost halfway down the track. Turns out my bypass valve was leaking. It's kinda strange that it would work sometimes and other times it wouldn't. Anyway, I installed a new bypass that's reinforced with kevlar and I also rerouted my vacuum line from the SC and I'm back in business. Planning on hitting the track soon again and this time I'll just trailer it down...bought my buddies aluminum trailer a few weeks ago. Makes it a whole lot easier to swap tires at home and just load/unload the car, race, load back up and on my way back home. Best I could do last run was a 11.29 @ 126mph with a 1.97 60'. Had the slicks too. The track prep sucks, but I think I needed to heat them up a bit more and ease it out of the hole. On one of my passes I had a 1.67 60', but lost boost half way down and ended up with a 12.0 @ 101 mph...that would of been my 10 sec pass if the car hadn't fallen on it's face.
  9. Anything new with this build? Just curious how it turned out or if your still in the process of finishing it.
  10. The cam was removed from the car with less than 10,000 miles on the car. Price is 100.00 Shipping 20.00 Just send me a PM if interested or text me at 417-298-1522 Thanks, Bruce
  11. It's the racing version. May have it sold. I'll post up pics if the sale doesn't go through.
  12. The tensioner is by far the one of the best on the market, but for my application it didn't work out. I'm selling the tensioner for $350.00 plus shipping. I had it on the car for about 4 months or so. I can post up a picture if needed. Thanks, Bruce SOLD
  13. I've had the chance to do so hard pulls and I'm no longer throwing belts. The wider steel pulley next to the water pump did the trick. GT500 tensioner is also holding up nicely. Will be getting some slicks in the next few months and see how I do at the track. I should be able to pull off a 10.6 or 10.7 ET. I'm also contemplating sending two of my stock rims to weld craft and have them widened to 20x10 and get a set of MT S/S 305/35/20 to run on the street. I guess a 6mm spacer would be enough to give me clearnance? On a side note, I've noticed that my key fob was acting erratic and would not lock/unlock the doors. Turns out the trinity is causing the interference. I guess I'll just have to unplug it whenever I need to lock the car, unless someone has an alternate fix. Thanks, Bruce
  14. I recently gave the GT 500 tensioner and adapter plate a try,with a longer belt, and that seems to be doing a little better. The tensioner still bounces a idle, but there is no squeaking associated with it, like there was with the ARS tensioner. The ARS Racing Hemi tensioner actually feels like it has a stronger spring, so I'm not sure why I'm having better luck with the GT 500.
  15. I installed the new steel pulley the other day and I'm thinking that may of solved my issue with throwing the belt. The pulley that i ordered (dayco part # 89016 ) is about 13mm wider and 6mm more in diameter than the stock pulley. I had to place a spacer behind the pulley to keep it from rubbing the bracket on the back side. I took the car out this evening and did a few hard pulls and all is well so far. My next issue is to get the tensioner under control. I'm thinking that I may have to get the adapter plate and gt 500 tensioner and that will allow me to reposition the tensioner pulley closer to the ps pulley. If that doesn't work, then I'm out of ideas. Edit: I may try the ARS Hemi Tensioner with the adapter plate and see where that gets me. I may just have to add a spacer on the back side of the tensioner pulley to compensate for the adapter. Hopefully I'll be able to get the tensioner tool in there without too much hassle.