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  1. The cam was removed from the car with less than 10,000 miles on the car. Price is 100.00 Shipping 20.00 Just send me a PM if interested or text me at 417-298-1522 Thanks, Bruce
  2. It's the racing version. May have it sold. I'll post up pics if the sale doesn't go through.
  3. The tensioner is by far the one of the best on the market, but for my application it didn't work out. I'm selling the tensioner for $350.00 plus shipping. I had it on the car for about 4 months or so. I can post up a picture if needed. Thanks, Bruce SOLD
  4. I've had the chance to do so hard pulls and I'm no longer throwing belts. The wider steel pulley next to the water pump did the trick. GT500 tensioner is also holding up nicely. Will be getting some slicks in the next few months and see how I do at the track. I should be able to pull off a 10.6 or 10.7 ET. I'm also contemplating sending two of my stock rims to weld craft and have them widened to 20x10 and get a set of MT S/S 305/35/20 to run on the street. I guess a 6mm spacer would be enough to give me clearnance? On a side note, I've noticed that my key fob was acting erratic and would not lock/unlock the doors. Turns out the trinity is causing the interference. I guess I'll just have to unplug it whenever I need to lock the car, unless someone has an alternate fix. Thanks, Bruce
  5. I recently gave the GT 500 tensioner and adapter plate a try,with a longer belt, and that seems to be doing a little better. The tensioner still bounces a idle, but there is no squeaking associated with it, like there was with the ARS tensioner. The ARS Racing Hemi tensioner actually feels like it has a stronger spring, so I'm not sure why I'm having better luck with the GT 500.
  6. I installed the new steel pulley the other day and I'm thinking that may of solved my issue with throwing the belt. The pulley that i ordered (dayco part # 89016 ) is about 13mm wider and 6mm more in diameter than the stock pulley. I had to place a spacer behind the pulley to keep it from rubbing the bracket on the back side. I took the car out this evening and did a few hard pulls and all is well so far. My next issue is to get the tensioner under control. I'm thinking that I may have to get the adapter plate and gt 500 tensioner and that will allow me to reposition the tensioner pulley closer to the ps pulley. If that doesn't work, then I'm out of ideas. Edit: I may try the ARS Hemi Tensioner with the adapter plate and see where that gets me. I may just have to add a spacer on the back side of the tensioner pulley to compensate for the adapter. Hopefully I'll be able to get the tensioner tool in there without too much hassle.
  7. Looks like I will go get the pulleys checked for alignment sometime soon, just to make sure, before I go looking for other issues. Appreciate all the advice/information.
  8. Here's two videos of what I'm dealing with right now. The video of the belt flying off is just the last few seconds before it lets go. You can see, in slow motion, right before it breaks the belt creeps over the front edge of the water pump pulley. Not sure that is signigicant or not, but I am replacing the plastic idler pulley that is adjacent to the water pump pulley with a steel one. I made several hard passes before it broke and you could see that as I let out the belt wanted to raise up a bit before it settled back down. The tensioner that I'm using is the racing hemi tensioner from ARS. It's a quality product, but I'm still have issues with the tensioner bouncing. https://youtu.be/z_JPzRpFCPI https://youtu.be/QFPCpbX9OXI
  9. Got the go pro video, but having trouble reviewing it. My buddy was watching it though while I was driving and I did several hard passes with the last pass going all out and when I let out that's when the belt broke. I'll see if I can get the video uploaded, but i don't think it's an alignment issue. The strange thing is that before i switched to the new tensioner I hadn't broke or thrown a single belt. I made the switch hoping that it would stop the bouncing that the dayco was suffering from. I may try and go back to my dayco and just see if I have any more belt issues. What about a clutched pulley on the SC? I've read that the hellcat has a clutched pulley and that helps with reducing slack in the belt as you let off the throttle.
  10. Borrowed a go pro camera and gonna see if I can get some video of the belt in action under full throttle.
  11. I think it must of just been unique to my setup. I am using the ARS tensioner and after it was installed that's when the belt issues started. I didn't realize how close the belt was to the back side of the tensioner pulley. The solution was easy enough, it was just the process of figuring out the root cause. I'm planning on pushing the car to its limits over the next day or two and really get a sense of whether or not my problem is solved. On other issue that I'm still having a little bit of grief over is the tensioner still wanting to bounce about at idle. It's significantly better than before, but I wish I could get it resolved completely. I don't know of any other fix...I have the best tensioner out there for our platform. I can live with it, but it's kinda embarrassing when you have a car with a nice lope and you hear an intermittent sqeaking sound. It's not as bad though once the car is warmed up. Update: Took the car out and flogged it pretty well and I was able to throw the belt. It did stay on better than before, but something is still not quite right. I'm wondering if I need to add another washer to the tensioner pulley so that the belt rides up more towards the front of the pulley.
  12. Looks like my belt issue is solved! Took the car out and tested it pretty well...no belt issues so far. Track is closed for the year, so I'll have to wait until next spring to try to get my 10 sec pass.
  13. May of found the problem. The belt is riding on the back side of the tensioner pulley. We put a spacer on to push the pulley out just a bit so the belt would ride more in the center. Hope this is a fix.
  14. Installed the new ps pulley and loosened the idler pulley about 2.5mm from where it was originally. Took the car out for just a few minutes and the belt came off about the 2nd or 3rd time i got on it hard. Got back home and put the belt back on and this time I tightened the idler pulley about 3-4mm from the original setting. Took the car out again and the tires spun just a bit and this time the belt was tore in two. Brought the car back home and reset the idler pulley to the original setting, put a new belt on and will take it down to a shop and see if the pulleys are aligned. I measured from the block to the outer edge of the stock pulley and made sure that i got the same reading after installing the new HHP pulley. It's got to be a misalignment, I would think. The new tensioner from ARS is better than the dayco for sure, but I'm still getting some belt chatter and the tensioner wants to bounce around a lilttle, especially when the car is first started. It's not as bad once the car is warmed up.
  15. Well I installed a new 3 bar map sensor the other night and downloaded the revised tune and took the car out for some data logging. I shredded the belt and broke a piece off the power steering pulley. Fortunately I was able to make it back home before the car over heated. I ordered the aluminum pulley from HHP and am hoping this will solve my issues. I am wondering if the plastic pulley may of been flexing under heavy load and that allowed the the belt to come off initially at the track and eventually the pulley broke under the continual pressure. BTW: If someone needs to install a 3 bar map you might need to shave off some of the tabs to make it fit. I couldn't figure out why in the hell this damn thing wouldn't connect... then I remembered reading somewhere that the tabs might need to be shaved down.