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GARRETTECH last won the day on June 1 2016

GARRETTECH had the most liked content!


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  1. Well, CONGRATS on the baby girl!!.
  2. any updates wildchild?
  3. well, I really didn't want to go the power outlet route. And the nice thing about the cirkit boss is it has the 3 spare fuses, already has a relay....even someone as electrically challenged as me can hook that up. Maybe there are better places in the trunk fusebox that are controlling less vital things. Havent really checked there. Or maybe just tap the power outlet with the cirkit boss and mount it under the dash instead of in the engine compartment or trunk. After all, the shift light and any gauges are all in the cabin anyway, might make things easier in the long run if a good place can be found
  4. thanks Speedy. I also see there are a bunch of empty fuse spaces in the box. I looked them up because I was thinking of trying an add a fuse to find the amps etc, and in the owners manual there are a few just labeled spare and a few labeled 'police something'. On the inside of the box lid they all just say spare if they are empty. It is this weekends mission to get the shift light in at the very least, whether the CB is in or not....but I will be poking around electricity tonight to see if any of the empty slots have power source and if they are switched. Thank you for replying
  5. Does anyone have a good place to pick up a switched power supply.....besides the charging outlet on the passenger side of the console. On the 2014 and older models was the handy 'diesel; fused outlet in the engine compartment fuse box, but this fusebox is totally different. I am looking to mount a cirkitboss in the engine compartment like I did on my old car and use that to add a shift light, and a gauge or 2. So basically, I want Speedy's video of installing the cirkitboss and gauges, except for the new car Any info/ideas are greatly appreciated
  6. Here is my GSP mascot 'helping' change an alternator in an explorer, just making sure I got everything tight.....freakin impossible job, just another reason to hate that brand...but what are you gonna do when your son-in-law owns it (which means your daughter will be riding in it) and he doesn't know how to turn a wrench....awesome dog speedy
  7. From the album CHALLENGER

  8. So let me get this straight...you are using the 6.2 shortblock and putting all the 5.7 parts on it? What changes are done....paricularly are you using the stock 6.2 cam that comes with the shortblock and if so, do you treat the heads as if you are swapping a cam like change valve springs and pushrods? I ask because I am doing a cam on my 5.7 and changing springs and pushrods. So if I do this, are they required anyway for the 6.2 swap?
  9. yea, its in the same spot but it seems like even more wires and less slack on those wires than what you show.Just trying to get it out of that spot was a nightmare. And like you show in your video, there are even more wires the same color going in those connectors. I just couldnt get the thing out to get in a good place to do the soldering. Thats when I called Raptor and he told me that it didnt matter where you picked up the coil wire signal from (or the clutch)....so I just went to the source of both of them.
  10. Nice write up speedy. I have the same light with the launch feature which if I remember is why there was a clutch wire. The only difference to my technique was i went right to the coil to get the rpm feed and right to the clutch pedal to pick up the feed for that. That made it so I didnt have to get to the PCM. On a '14, that is way more packed to get at than your video shows. I used the same technique for stripping the wire sheathing and soldering the tapped wire into it....except I didnt have that cool tool. Wish I did because I basically was like a surgeon and used an exacto knife to strip it away. I may have to get that tool for the future. Also Raptor told me it didnt really matter which coil to pick up RPM signal from so since I was running a wire over to a cirkit boss, i just ran the power, ground, and rpm wire together in a loom and broke the rpm wire out and hooked to a convenient coil on the passenger side (cirkit boss I have mounted near the main fuse box. Just figured I would throw some of this out there for guys with the newer models ('11-'14). As usual speedy, great write up and video.
  11. Now thats interesting dogge....I hadnt even thought of that. That does sound like a decent plan if I go the RPM route now. Thanks
  12. ok, so I know internet diagnosis is almost impossible. Some details....I have a 6 speed, all stock drivetrain, 45,000 miles and about 350 passes at the track. I run Royal purple synchromax, have deleted the CDV. My issue, I went to the track yesterday and it is nearly impossible to to a speed/power/no lift (whatever you want to call it) shift from 1st to 2nd. This is something that has gradually gotten worse. I granny shifted after the first 2 timetrials and it shifted like butter for the three rounds I lasted. So, what is the general opinion and what do you think of my plan.....I was going to get a stock clutch, and as long as I am taking the thing apart I would get a new TOB. If that works out, good for me.....if not then I would either get the trans fixed under warranty or go for an RPM trans. I still have 55,000 left on my warranty so I would rather take advantage of that and since the clutch essentially has no warranty, I can replace that on my own and TOB and at least eliminate that as an issue. Then if its still FUBAR, then pull the trans again and get it fixed.
  13. has anyone set up a dedicated clutch reservoir? I was thinking maybe this would help with any heat issues
  14. sooooo.......your saying THERES A CHANCE.....I can get some free stuff
  15. From the album CHALLENGER