Welcome to Modern Mopar Forum

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About trippytro

  • Rank
    Junior Jack Wagon
  1. Baer makes a great kit, super high quality. Due to budget though, i went with a custom kit from TCE performance. No knuckle swaps, no fitment issues what so ever, and by far the most wallet-friendly option.
  2. Currently running the 295/45ZR18’s on the rear. Love these tires, they do just fine for street and pretty decent in the wet also. Mine is cambered out but if i keep up with the cross rotations, i average 15-20K miles out of them. The proxy ST’s looked like truck tires to me (which makes sense because this size was the OEM ford lightening size). Kind if limited on options but i see goodyears used to make this size too if u can find a deal on some take offs. Anything bigger send you right into racing slicks. I drive my car hard on suspension and these tires keep up for the most part, excellent street tire IMO Also not running any adapters, just the correct wheels offset lowered about 3” and -2.2 camber
  3. Ill chime in here and mention, Todd from TCE makes a bitchin kit to use a factory 14” SRT Rotor (4 piston brembo rotor) with these wilwood 6 pistons and they work great. He makes custom brackets and can run a 2 piece rotor if so inclined. AAAAND, they fit my 18’s [emoji16]
  4. Ok? “Just get a custom grind” is not something i am able to pull off. Close to $1K to not be smog legal, (not everyone is building a racecar) with a custom cam. This factory cam not only will keep me CA smog compliant, but ill still get decent power gain.
  5. Yes but “translating to the track” can mean many things, if it made the power on the dyno then its just transferring the power all that well, be it the high stall converter or whatever. If thats the case, wouldnt ANY cam run you through the same hoops? Isnt the whole purpose of a cam to open up the lift/exhaust and shift the power band? Im sorry im no expert and have never swapped a cam into a car before. So i am mainly here to pick your brain. See, I’ve already went ahead and purchased a 6 speed cam for my 16’ M6 R/T. Got it fairly cheap brand new as a matter of fact and seemed like a good option
  6. Im trying to follow However its hard when you are just being told “dont do it”. Everyones experience differ depending on the car and the build. If i may ask, how far did you get into the build? At what point did you decide it wasn’t worth it?
  7. Could you elaborate a bit? I was under the impression that this was a good mod for 6 speed cars, picking as much as 50 hp on the dyno