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TheBeej418

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TheBeej418 last won the day on November 19 2014

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About TheBeej418

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    Senior Jack Wagon
  • Birthday March 7
  1. I have a 90mm throttle body that came from Arrington years ago (5-6yrs) and it's now causing my dash to light up and throwing codes galore. Most of the codes don't seem to have a whole lot of info with them other than it doesn't appear the TB is communicating with the PCM. Admittedly, I haven't kept up with this stuff as much over the past couple of years but it appears even Arrington has changed up their throttle body lineup. Doesn't surprise me because even mine had issues brand new out of the box and went back for repairs. The codes I'm getting: P2135 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch P0221 - Throttle/Pedal Position Switch B Circuit P0222 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor B Circuit P0121 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit The cluster lights I have are the lightning bolt for Electronic Throttle Control and the general check engine light. Is this something I troubleshoot? By troubleshoot, I likely mean have a local shop take a look for better diagnostic than I'm able to do. Do I call Arrington to see if I can send it back and have it "refurbished"? Lord knows how long that may take if possible. Do I buy a new one for $500, slap it on, and hope it ales all my problems?
  2. I know we've talked about it a little here and there with automakers trying to use Copyright law to prevent us from tuning our cars. They just ruled on an exemption that allows us full right to modify the ECM/PCM! http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/victory-carmakers-cant-use-the-dmca-to-make-working-on-1738997079 Good thing we all waited for this day before we started tuning! Oh wait.....
  3. Erik, by temperature scale, does checking the fluid when the car was up to temp and I had been driving it for a bit count? It does it when the temps fall in to the 40's and below. Worst when it's in the teens and twenties (coldest it typically gets in TN). I have one of those cheap dipsticks that has a level range for when checking cold and when checking hot. I have remote start on the car, just going to have to annoy the neighbors every morning. When it's 'slipping' I'm running it up to 4000 RPM before the car even wants to try and move. If I'm on a hill, I have to 2-foot it because it will just roll backwards as if it's in Neutral. Seems far more severe than just a little slipping.
  4. I have a Paramount Dominator 3600 stall converter on my stock transmission. I've never had anything but factory prior to this. When it is physically colder outside (<50*), I start to get converter slip. If it's around 30*, damn car won't hardly move until the fluid warms up a little bit. I have been to a transmission shop who has driven the car and used a specialty scanner of some sorts to determine there were zero issues. (This was during the summer and I was not experiencing slip at the time) Number one issue when cold is low fluid - I have triple checked this at different times and fluid level is good I strongly feel it's the converter, not transmission. I can auto-stick it and it will act the exact same way 1st, 2nd, 3rd, at which point the car is moving enough that it stops acting up so much because I've got momentum to the car Is this common with aftermarket converters? Is this more of a specific problem with my particular unit? This is my daily driver so it's not as easy as just pulling the TC and sending it off to Bill for inspection/repair. Just trying to better determine what I'm dealing with.
  5. Unfortunatly he "took that info with him" when he left. Was a great thread.
  6. Search for a thread Speedy started last year. He just went through this same thing and had posted about it.
  7. The guy who did the story on the filming said he had a full story on the build/car coming.
  8. Yep, posting about a Mustang on a Mopar forum. Shame on me! This is just too amazing not to share. The skill is unbelievable and this is the best Gymkhana, by far, yet. http://youtu.be/5qanlirrRWs A little backstory to the filming if you care. http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/11/gymkhana_seven-how-it-all-went-down/
  9. I've got the solution.....
  10. I think you need to borrow JohnB's Trinity and I can live log it for you one of these weekends.
  11. Depending on where you're working, I'm with Chuck on butane. However, I do believe butane soldering irons to last if you buy a good one (like anything, worth depends on use). I've had my Snap-On unit for over 10 years and she still fires up on the... well, 2nd or 3rd click these days. It saw daily use for the first 5-6 years but now it's on occasional use duty. Only thing I've ever done is buy a tip for it. With butane, you just have to be aware of the exhaust as to not burn yourself or melt something close by. Tight spaces are where electric units come in handy. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=yes&tool=all&item_ID=647908&group_ID=681034&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
  12. I saw this thread for the first time today and thought the same thing as what Mani and Sam have covered. Honestly, I can't believe the question was asked given the fact you lowered your car. This place has really grown up given the amount of genuine attempts at helping. I just thought...
  13. Sam, I've tried this with my first gen AE a couple of times and kept having issues as well. From my understanding, Apple is very picky in what will work with Time Machine wirelessly and I know they broke the "compatible" NAS devices with the Snow Leopard(?) update a while back (I was using one at the time). I'm with you on the Time Capsule... awful track record. I've resorted to just plugging the USB cable in about once a week. Keep us posted if you get it up and running.
  14. This one is small/simple but help keep everything clean. It would be nice if the hotel could put a few garbage cans out in the lot for us. All they have are their standard ones by the doors that we fill up pretty quickly with BBQ containers and beer cans/bottles. Those always seem to end up overflowing.
  15. At 2500 RPM, you're not going to be making full boost. 3psi at 2500RPM is probably pretty good actually. You won't see full boost until you get much closer to your shift point