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Everything posted by Cam

  1. Your maxed right now jay. Those two pumps are fine for what you have and where you're headed. It's the stock 5/16 line that creating too much head pressure thus reducing your pressure. It's pretty easy to upgrade to a -8 from the stock fuel hat and will make all the difference in the world. If you need the part number for the hat adapter to -8 let me know.
  2. Oh looky, matching key chain hooks.
  3. It's been several years now but I used to use their filters for all my CAI systems and never had a failure. But things do change.
  4. Yup I forgetted about that one.
  5. So what happened to that performance contract G, was it out the window once you changed up the build? Or are a2 using the weather delay clauses to their benefit. Just joking guys, don't go getting pissy.
  6. Hell Thats nothing but I deeply sympathize with the guy. Back when I built the Texas minitub car the SRT engineers asked me why I had opened up the bottom grill and I explained to them all the exact reason including air flow Calcs for heat exchangers and other factors. Well whatta ya know the next year brought on the revised fascia as well as the mopar ten addition which copied not only my paint scheme but the red color as well. What cracks me up about their color choice is I used ford laser red and mopar matched it exactly. Everytime I see a 10 edition it burns my ass. Oh and then in 15 after we unveiled the air ride system I built for fatchance V3 with the floating mount design and hidden wiring the air ride company copied my mount and brought it out as a production offerings and is now also offering a different style of hinden wiring then what I did but the same premise. I could go on and on about certain companies ripping off designs but fuck it. Between Lisa, razors edge and the moroso family nothing is safe and hadn't been for many years.
  7. Crap I'd luv to have that but I need a real 4x. Damn the bad luck.
  8. Sure can. What jeep you got?
  9. You won't need extensions with a shortie and your tune will be fine
  10. Heat gun for the paint and don't over roll it so the liner doesn't have a lip to set into. And take your sweet ass time and whatever ya do don't get greedy. Baby steps brutha, baby steps. Btw, cool rims
  11. Maybe but considering I've had a couple puter melts downs over the years it's take some searching. I think oneluv has some in his thread about that build on LX. I'm supposed to be working right now so I'll need to look later on my old drives
  12. The motors are tight to the carpet at the lowered position so unless you went to a manual slider I doubt you'll be able to get anything out of it. Probably you're best bet would be to have the seat cushion modified. Btw, I've done several of the remove the seat and add the kirky seat to the track system mod
  13. Looking good. But I can't get either of those vids to play for me.
  14. Btw. Only do this 10-15 seconds or so at a time. It'll take a little while to build oil pressure and you don't want to smoke your starter by running it for a minute.
  15. Leave it all plugged in. Just remember hold the pedal to the floor the entire time you're cranking it.
  16. Is the motor in the car or on the stand still. If on the stand I remove one plug each cylinder and the valve covers and use a 1/2" hole hawg to turn it over until I've got oil flow thru the rockers at each location. If you dropped it in the car you can leave everything together and push the pedal to the floor holding it there. In that position while starting turns off the injectors and ignition. Then you can watch the pressure gauge until you get pressure.
  17. Well if he didn't touch the valves there's something going on. I know it's a PITA but you might have to double check what you did. I'd almost say you might not have fully seated the adjustable in the lifter with that much of a difference or something. Go get a cheap automotive stethoscope and listen to eavery inch of the motor at the lifter valley. If you do have a huge difference in the valve train you'll hear the difference in noise. If it all sounds the same well..... By chance anything crazy with the block being decked? If the heads are untouched that's the only place that could tighten up the preload. I don't remember what you did for a build.
  18. I just need to length of the adjustable set at zero lash. Then add .100 and then find something close give or take less then .030. Looking at those numbers I thought you were gives me the preload value. wow brain dead day for me. So those are the preload numbers right? Another words the adjustable plus that number is what the push rods you have now are right? With that said are you sure about both the .130 and .170 numbers? That's a pretty big discrepancy for the valve stem installed height. Or the length of the push rod unless you're using manleys. Those damn things can be all over the road.
  19. That's the amount of preload? If so those intakes are probably going solid on you which explains the noise. The exhaust all though on the high side are ok.
  20. What's up the the SC units?
  21. Pretty dang cool looking.
  22. Check it first and then we'll go from there.
  23. 1.800. But for you I'd go 1.760.
  24. Well the I would suggest checking to see how much preload these push rods create. I've seen lots of reworked heads that the valve installed height varies enough to create n issue. The stock preload is .100. So a variance of .050 on the valve installed height can create all kinds of issues from too little preload to bottoming out the lifter.
  25. If you went with a eagle head um ya, you need new pushrods.