Welcome to Modern Mopar Forum

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

Sybil

Members
  • Content count

    976
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Posts posted by Sybil


  1. Update: The wheel is the same and bolt. The hub was wobbling in the center a tad. Guessing since it came off a 300 a heavy person used the wheel as a crutch to get in and out and caused it to open up the hole . Rather than send it back and risk it again and I hate the factory wheel we fixed it ourselves by drilling some holes around the perimeter and injecting epoxy in and just building up the whole area front and rear  pretty thick. It's probably 3 or 4 time stronger than the factory wheel new. Pretty cheaply made by the factory. It's a very soft cast aluminum with a center splined hub press fitted in not much meat holding it in. Had some epoxy here so it just cost time. Really wasn't the guys fault who does these but now he knows to closely check his cores he is using. Will be getting a discount on the Ram wheel but will send him our core. Still cheaper than a Hellcat wheel by about $300 and the time it would have taken to do some soldering to make the steering wheel controls work.


  2. Wheel is cool but have a sight issue. Has a little play about 1mm top to bottom side to side. The core is off an 05 300. They look exactly the same but either the taper in the wheel bolt is different or both. Ordered a new 05 300 bolt. If that doesn't take up the slack they will have to customize the challenger core.

     

    It's always something....lol


  3. On 9/12/2018 at 10:28 PM, Goehner said:

    I had a P1 and D1, the red race blow off valve is loud and fucking awesome.

    If I had to do it again, I would do a Whipple for sure, the whine of that thing is awesome and it is a great kit.

    That's what i'm going with ... eventually. I went with the petty strut bar to clear the Whipple. Rear to matchSsSJlax.jpguYHM7d9.jpg


  4. On 10/1/2018 at 8:40 AM, Mopart said:

    After researching I am definitely leaning towards the procharger. Does anyone have any experience with the helical cut gears? Apparently they quiet down the obnoxious procharger noise at idle. Any have any first hand experience with these?

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
     

    Do they all (procharger) sound like a bunch of bolts in a blender? Eek....


  5. 16 hours ago, us1champ said:

    I have 1 7/8 kooks
    Put them in two times
    Pain. Take the motor mount bolts out from below. Pry the motor over to one side to gain you a much needed 1 1/2 from below
    Take the valve covers off so u can get to the top bolts
    In a lift 6-8 hr job. Using all 1/4 tools


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Thanks sounds like fun.....for him lol


  6. 12 hours ago, Hemi57 said:

    Kinda went thru that with the Vette & Challenger. Wife said, 4 doors & a trunk I can use. So, a 17 Charger Scat Pack seamed to fit the bill. Not quite what she was thinking... But she warming up to the car after a few long trips.

    Sent via Tapatalk
     

    We live in BFE and the Viper was hard to get out to the main roads because it sat so low. No problem with the Challenger. Have a 4 door Ram so doors and room isn't the issue, just ride height.