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Found 2 results

  1. You've got the 6 psi Maggie kit and want a bit more? Here's how to get it to 8 psi. It gave me a 37 whp increase. What you'll need: - 8 psi pulley. Typically, this is a .2" smaller pulley than what you have now. Call Arrington or Magnacharger. - Fuel upgrade. Today the 392 drop-in fuel pump makes a nice alternative. I used a Boost-A-Pump since the 392 pump wasn't available at the time. I got the MSD 2351. Actually, I'm not all that convinced a BAP is required for 8 psi on the R/T. SRT may need it. - Wideband AFR. This is mandatory. Do not do anything without it. - Datalogging experience. I got Hemi31 "Erik" to help me out with this one, since I hate doing wiring. As it turns out, so does he, so I helped him along. We mounted the BAP in the trunk so that it's closer to the actual fuel pump. He ran a solid brake line from the engine bay all the way to the trunk to supply the vacuum reference for the BAP. 0. Have a tuner examine your tune. I sent the canned 6 psi tune to Erik, who examined it with lafrad. He confirmed the tune was safe, and that everything was scaled up to 10 psi of boost. 1. Make sure you're running phat and have zero KR. With 6 psi my AFR was 10.8 - 11.1. 16* timing from 5200-6000. 2. Run vacuum line from engine bay to the rear. Erik had to drop the driver's side of the fuel tank a bit. Bring it up through the fuel access panel under the driver's side rear seat, through the back. 3. Mount BAP in your favourite location. Solder the connections, and for fuck's sake, fuse the 12v supply. The MSD has this direct to battery, no fuse. Dumb. Make sure your location allows you to access the USB port to configure the BAP. 4. Cut the factory wiring at the fuel pump connection as close to the connector as you can. Solder in the BAP wires. Cover with shring tape. Connect car battery and set ignition to ON to make sure pump works. 5. Connect the vacuum line to the reference on the BAP. If you want, do like Erik and suck on the line real hard to see if it leaks. The entertainment value is worth it. Connect vacuum line to unused port on the Magnacharger tub is you're convinced it doesn't leak. 6. IMPORTANT: install the MSD software, connect laptop to the BAP, and go driving. Make sure the BAP is seeing the correct values for vacuum and boost. 7. At the factory the MSD is configured to add several volts to the fuel pump. I can't remember how high they were spinning it, but if you're set up like me, it was too high. 8. Swap your pulley. Go driving, and keep a close eye on AFR and the volts sent to the fuel pump. Adjust fuel pump so that you maintain your AFR. 9. Have tune revised to your taste. Or not.
  2. I figure I'd start moving my stuff here... Yeehaw! I've got a new crank bolt from the dealership. I won't be doing any write-ups of the install since there's an excellent one going on over at LXF, and the instructions are pretty clear. I will post up some gotchas. Special thanks to Lisa @ Speedlogix for accommodating my last-minute shipping indecisions and changes. For fellow canucks out there, taking into account currency conversion and duty, this is $8K (CAD) right to your door. In case anyone (at Magnacharger) cares, here are some instruction addendums: - the parts list was not present in my kit - step 5 -- there are eight 7mm bolts, not seven - for pinning the crank, instructions tell you to use the two provided dowels to keep the crank from turning. My kit didn't have them, so I cut some threaded bar stock I had and used a socket extension up against the stock tensioner bracket (not the wheel). You really want to have both hands on the wrench then working the crank bolt. - again for pinning the crank, it's not obvious by the instructions that the drilling guide must be bolted with the protruding section towards the crank. I pinned from the top, which was very workable, using a small mirror as per the pic: I also suggest placing a piece of cardboard or thin, rigid plastic in front of the radiator while pinning the crank, to avoid banging it up. My kit didn't have the correct bolts for the TB. Perhaps for the 6.1 which uses an aluminum manifold. The bolts for the 5.7 are a very coarse thread for bolting into the composite intake. Above is a bolt in the kit which threads in correctly (it's just too long). Below (green) is the stock bolt that threads into the composite manifold. There is no need to splice the map sensor. Just peel more tape back and you've got plenty of wire. Thanks Brad. Doing this map sensor thing before putting on the head unit would make the job soooo much easier. Current instructions tell us to do it after. The recess for the throttle body gasket is definitely too deep. I'll think of something, even if it is a vacuum cleaner belt Not much to it ... follow the instructions, take your time. Here's a snapshot of a 3rd gear boot. As you can see, the tune leaves a lot of power on the table in favour for safety. Ain't no one gonna blow a motor with this I think. ... and this AFR is without cats Here is cats (solid) vs. catless in 3rd gear: I make a smidge more power with the cats on. AFR didn't really change much.