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Found 3 results

  1. For sale, My custom finished and polished Barton Shifter with Flat Stick for the 6 speed. This has been in the car for about two years but only a thousand or so miles on it. I hand finished the rough flat stick and removed the tooling marks from the CNC. Then I polished it to a fine luster. This can't be purchased finished like this! From their website; Firm centering springs - The only shifter on the market for your Challenger that has self centering springs. They help mask the slop that is in the gear selector rod. This gives you a perfect 2-3 shift EVERY time. The transmission has internal springs but the problem is that when you change gears from the left gate of gears 1 and 2, and the right gate of gears 5 and 6, back to the center gates of 3 and 4, the shift rod moves back to where it needs to be, but because of the slop in the yoke, the linkage does not center back to where it needs to be, leading to missed shifts. The centering springs in our shifter will help aid the yoke and linkage back in alignment with the selector rod. It'll be removed from the car once sold or sooner. Going to the land of Burrito eaters! $425 firm. Plus shipping. Thanks for looking, Matt
  2. For sale my like new Mopar short throw shifter. I never used the aluminum knob so it is perfect. The stalk was used with the Leather knob I am selling as well. All of these items are in excellent condition. The short throw is the shortest knob available and dramatically reduces the throw. see the picture below. $80 for the Mopar short throw aluminum shifter retails for over $120 $50 for the Leather (carbon fiber) shift knob retails for over $65 or $125 for them both. Buyer pays shipping at cost to destination. Links http://www.amazon.com/Mopar-P5155284.../dp/B006T2P918 http://www.ebay.com/itm/11-12-Dodge-...3D121199504893 This combo is great feeling and fits well with the early Challengers with the carbon fiber looking interior trim.Thanks for looking Matt
  3. If you think theirs a big difference between the two you might be in for a surprise. I sold my modded hurst. Then bought a Barton. I couldn't help but hear all the praise and hoopla about how this was the best thing ever . I bit the bait.... On the outside they are definitely not equal. The barton has a nicer billet spring loaded throw rod assy. It also has a nicer adjustable blade that looks really solid. I did not purchase this $75 option as I have a Mopar short throw with a leather and aluminum ball. The Hurst has a nicer billet linkage attaching to the forward trans mount. It doesn't present itself as well from the outside, but once installed it is completely concealed so this is a moot point in my opinion. They both have very similar amounts of play once installed. I used the same shift rod and ball so this is an apples to apples comparison. Now before anyone jumps on me let me explain. The Hurst is not heavily spring loaded. The Barton is. So when installed they both have wiggle room when in gear. Unless you limp wrist it like the video on Barton's website shows. I will add two video links for demonstration at the earliest chance I have. The one thing I don't like with the Barton is the height. It is not as short of a throw as the Hurst. It's better than stock but not as good as the Hurst. Both are equal in terms of noise. Louder than stock, but very similar. Now for the drive. The Barton requires you to find first gear and five and six. This is because the spring pressure wants to take it home. Every time you shift it does this. Home is centered and neutral. And yes I am still nervous about going for 5th and finding reverse by accident. This shifter needs that much effort that it is a valid concern. Not sure if their is a lockout but I would guess so? That takes some thought when driving. I found myself in 3rd gear quite a few times when coming out of 6 and going for 5. It's actually a bit annoying. Especially in a boosted car. The Hurst on the other hand doesn't find 3rd quite as easily when slamming up from 2nd. So for this reason the Barton is stronger. But the Hurst also won't end you up over revving on the downshift to 5! So why do i say they are similar in end play, Because the Barton in first and second is sprung to the right side of the slop in the transmission. In third and fourth it is centrally located but has the least amount of its substantial spring load so the play is more noticeable, I/e similar to the Hurst. And when in fifth and sixth it is loaded to the left again by the spring tension. But at any position the shifter can be moved left/right the same amount as with the hurst. No shifter can fix this slop. It is in the transmission. Now the question remains, what if any damage could occur due to the loading of the linkage to one side or the other when the Barton is in gear? Remember this shifter is always loaded. So for me, I kind of am torn. I like them both. I almost wish I had the Hurst again as it was easier to drive with. The Barton is slightly more satisfying in the tension when sitting in the parking lot and certainly when up shifting to 2 and 3 but this is easily negated by the downshifting which must be thought about to avoid unwanted gears. If I was only a 1/4 mile at a time guy, the Barton would be probably the best shifter. Seeing as I am a street guy, I kind of prefer the shorter throw and less thought and muscle necessary that the Larry's modified Hurst gave me. In the end it's up to you. Just thought I'd share my investment and experience from this.