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Goehner

Wheel Hop Help

55 posts in this topic

Not sure I would want to deal with all the NVH problems that come along with solid bushings. My car is more street car than race car.

no NVH issues. You still have rubber or poly in the arms. You don't have NVH from the front and thats solidly mounted.

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factory wants as much vibration damping they can get. so theyll shove rubber in any hole they can.... 

 

 

why do you need a rubber isolator on the shifter....... same shit lol

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No wheel hop here with hop not.  I had to notch the brackets on the hop not to clear the 17" wheels, but had no hop with F1's or D.R's after hop not install.  Was a 20" kit, but like I said notched to clear 17's.

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Alan, your suggestion to buy slicks is a good place to start at the track. If he loads the suspension well and keep the nose up by releasing the clutch while pressing the gas he will be a long ways there. Next step is the hop-not kit. It's not a 100% cure but it's a good way there. It works with 17" HHP/Bogart wheels if you just grind the bottom of the vertical mounts a little.

 

If he likes to drive at the edge of slipping a lot on street tires on cold days, the tension arms are great as well. Their added stiffness actually makes the load/unload cycles at a higher frequency and it is really easy to get out of any minor hop left by modulating the gas pedal a tiny bit. The stock hop is a pain because it won't go away with more pedal and you need to let off which gives an other hit. With the hop-not and tension arms I'm a happy camper and have no complaint anymore. Sure, I know about that bitch enough to force a small hop if I want to but I have to purposely do it and it's not that big hammer of the stock car.

 

FYI about solid bushings only, SRT engineers welded the cradle and there was still hop.

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Solid cradle bushings!

 

This will help a lot as would replacing all the rubber bushings with poly or nylon. Heim joints on all the lateral arms and where else they would work would also help immensely. The change of toe in IRS cars causes wheel hop. The wheel spins and loses forward momentum and the wheel goes back to static position, the tire briefly hooks then looses traction and the happens allover again. Wheel hop would never happen if traction is not lost. 

 

On solid axle leaf sprung cars, excessive spring wrap is the cause, hence the use of Super Stock springs back in the day. The spring wraps up, unloading suspension as Phil mentioned, fwd momentum / acceleration is lost, spring unwraps. The wheel will continue to hop until it hooks.  The ultimate fix would be to dead hook  :)

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I have 2 questions. Is this mainly a 6 spd thing? and does lowering the car help? I ask because mine is an auto that was lowered when I bought it and I've never had a problem with wheelhop. I've run a variety of street tires including drag radials and even when I was near stock power it wasn't a problem.

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so theyll shove rubber in any hole they can....

 

 

How MMF has changed....this went unnoticed....

 

And yes, autos don't get much hop, at least my little blower car doesn't.

 

 

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^^^So true !!!!!!

 

I know after I changed the cradle bushings to Pedder's & got rid of the shitty F1"s about 80% of the wheel hop went away. After installing the blower, it has enuff power to just blow thru the wheel hop on street tires, haven't tried slicks yet so I can't say there.

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I've gotten wheel hop with the slicks.  Taken into third gear but I"m hard on shit.  Doesn't happen all that often, but enough.  DSS axles FTMFW....they should have snapped.  I was running the Getrag then.  Can't speak to the 9" or the 15" slicks yet since I've had little track time with them...I keep breaking transmissions and shit :D

 

HS

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Not sure if anyone has tried it, but the gforce test car used BMR GTO drag bags that helped with unloading quite a bit. Not sure if it helped the wheel hop. He doesnt seem to get much of it with a 28.5inch tall bias ply tire

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I have 2 questions. Is this mainly a 6 spd thing? and does lowering the car help? I ask because mine is an auto that was lowered when I bought it and I've never had a problem with wheelhop. I've run a variety of street tires including drag radials and even when I was near stock power it wasn't a problem.

It's a 6spd thing. Lowering it will not change anything. Unless maybe you change spring rates.

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I guess I should have mentioned what I run.  It's largely a road race suspension.  Pedders coilovers front and rear, pedders bushings most everywhere that counts including the rear cradle, beefed up sways, and my input was from when I was running the Getrag and the DSS Level 5 axles and DSS DS.  I'm now running a 9" with Wavetrac, DSS halfshafts and DSS DS and a 15" setup.  Look forward to really putting the hurt on those 15's...they're sick.  Only had one pass on them that was good for high 10's with a 1.98 60ft.  Need to figure out how to better spool the TT's and launch and not wreck transmissions.

 

HS

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I guess I should have mentioned what I run. It's largely a road race suspension. Pedders coilovers front and rear, pedders bushings most everywhere that counts including the rear cradle, beefed up sways, and my input was from when I was running the Getrag and the DSS Level 5 axles and DSS DS. I'm now running a 9" with Wavetrac, DSS halfshafts and DSS DS and a 15" setup. Look forward to really putting the hurt on those 15's...they're sick. Only had one pass on them that was good for high 10's with a 1.98 60ft. Need to figure out how to better spool the TT's and launch and not wreck transmissions.

 

HS

Ever thought about a "progressive" boost controller to ease in the psi?

 

Also, can we get a sticky about wheel hop remedies? It may help compile the trial and errors of other users. dunno if there is one or not yet, i havent checked.

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Ever thought about a "progressive" boost controller to ease in the psi?

 

Also, can we get a sticky about wheel hop remedies? It may help compile the trial and errors of other users. dunno if there is one or not yet, i havent checked.

I run an AMS1000....yes. Still have to play with it a lot more to work it out but that requires a trans tgat will live. I drop boost at shifts and bring it back in. Also cut spark for xxx milliseconds.

 

HS

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Well last night Is the first time I've gotten wheel hop since adding the blower. I put on a set of Yoko Advant Sport tires merely due to them being speed rated to 196mph to run at the Tx Mile. I knew when I bought them they weren't the greatest for traction, but dayum! With traction control on it will blow the tires off all the way thru 3rd gear, and I mean smoke em down! Glad I will only be running these two weekends a year. lol Now on the up side the rears are 295/40/20 but they are almost 3/4 taller than the Conti's 295/40/20 so they should help a bit with top end gearing.

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