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Ram This.. Functional (true Cold Air Intake) System

Time to share a Little project I completed in August /Sept. Decided to lower Intake temps and introduce/force more cold air into my 6.4.


How to do this while maintaining my "Sleeper" mentality? My idea was to use the Fog lamp bezel on my M11 as the Air intake.. Mind you this is not a "Dryer vent line" hook up. Like Most  other Gear heads on this forum, it had to be clean, professional, and functional.


Started with the API Cold air kit, which has ben on the car since early '12. but it needed to be refined..


I started with removing the bezel, cutting, and fabricating a cold air duct from Carbon Fiber.


Using Green Foam as the Inner mold, I shaped it to conform to the exterior dimension Of the bezel:


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Then to make the CF intake duct, fab'd from 1 layer of 45* pre-preg CF sandwiched between 2 layers of 90*:

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Put it under vacuum and cooked for an hour or so



trimmed up and ready to be bonded to the bezel, using AIRTECH 3100 Binary epoxy, vacuumed and cooked @ 150*f for  :15, under 20 hg. 

Intake duct complete:

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For the engine bay,I formed a True Cold Air box from Aluminum, using the API piece as the start point, sealing it off from engine bay heat and "dirty" air. Bottom of the box first after opening up the OEM metal work a little wider



Using a Ricer velocity stack as a Plenum:

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Then the rest of the  Cold Air Box fab work, getting the radius along the core support  correct was a patience test:




Finished up by lining the Box and CF lid with DEI heat mat,(Killer stuff):

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The Intake tract, using .100" alum tube and readily available silicone connectors:



And finally,The "Sleeper" intake bezel: You cannot see the "Blue" when you look at the car"

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The finished product is pretty sweet. Our rudimentary wind tunnel consisted of the car in a booth, Multiple high velocity fans and packing "Popcorn". It was sucked/pushed right, in filling the Box rapidly.Intake temps dropped drastically,(air temps monitored by static temp gauge, and pulled from log) as soon as I find the numbers I will share) as it was nearing the end of summer when I finished. I had bounced a couple ideas off Chris @LMI (Thank You Brother), and it just all clicked.


No Dyno #'s since the last Time AJ worked his magic, as there are a few other things I am prepping for.

Seat of the pants tells a good tale. once she's up on the stall (approx. 3800) it pulls Harder thru the midrange, and seems to get to max shift RPM sooner. My mpg increased by a full gallon (when I'm not "in"it).


Wanted to share.



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this project came out nice.  i am not usually real big on boxes and "shield" because they are usually always half assed and don't really do anything.  the biggest difference with this is the fact it is almost completely sealed due to the nice front and bottom sections that were built to the box, that did not exist before.  the craftsmanship is very good as well.  my only suggestion to help with increased flow, would be to enlarge the exit opening of the "funnel" made to connect to the fog bezel, so that it was a matching OD of the connecting alum pipe to the air inlet opening/velocity stack.


lots of work in this......... not for the avg guy.  as i said in our emails...... well done my friend! 

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^^^^  Yes.. as soon as I have a new bezel, I kept it 4.0" from intake to box. Bonding the larger I.D. CF duct to the bezel is the challenge, keeping the smooth contour. Making it, piece of cake, kind of.. I made the CF intake tract run all the way to the plenum, using only one silicone 4'' x 4" coupling.


Your guidance, is spot on.

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