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pmaillet23

Emissions Inspection Failure

61 posts in this topic

Fail and NOT READY are two very different scenarios. In order to fail it has to run the test, not pass, then rerun the test intrusively, not pass again then illuminate the MIL. If its not running the test or is being driven outside the criteria to run the test you have to look and find out WHY. Could be one of 50 global disables, like Fuel level, Ambient temp, outside of rpm, outside of speed, ect. Before everyone rushes to judgement there are some serious questions that need to be asked, There is a saying that you find out who your friends are when you have NOTHING, Its so true. And your only as good as your last mistake in the court of public opinion ;) Like I said I do NOT have a dog in this fight any longer but I DO have the courage of my own convictions. Don't always assume that someone is getting screwed. Does anyone look at the glass half full anymore?

AJ

 

Bolded part confuses me.  Having the rear O2s off isn't screwing anyone, I've just seen it happen from time to time.  My main point to OP is that the EO has nothing to do with it.  That's only used in states like CA I believe.  Some customers want the O2s on, some want them off, and and when working on multiple tunes I can see how that can get mixed up and is a 5 minute fix.  Please don't read anything extra in to my posts, they mean what they mean and in this case I'm trying to help the guy get his car through emissions.  Living in an emissions state I know what a PITA it is.

 

OP, surprised the tech couldn't give you more details.  Here's what I did when it happened to me.  I went to Advanced Auto and borrowed their OBDII tool.  I hooked it up and scanned the car and it showed me the "monitor" status.  That should give you a good direction.  If they're not ready you can try driving in the readiness cycle to speed up the process.

 

Alternatively you can also key the ignition on but don't start the car.  Watch the MIL lamp.  If after about 10 seconds it starts flashing and then returns to fully illuminated the readiness monitors are NOT all set.  If when you key the ignition on the MIL lamp stays illuminated then they ARE set.  I learned that tip from Concussion on this forum. 

 

If they're not set then perform a specific drive cycle.

 

The drive cycle is kind of weird.  AJ actually helped me with that some time back.  I had loaded my street tune at the race track and driven 120 miles home.  The next day I went to get emission checked and failed for not ready.  I texted AJ and he responded with the drive cycle info so he can correct me if I get it wrong.

 

Fire car and let it idle for about 2 minutes to reach a coolant temp of at least 100°

Drive between 65 - 68 MPH without cruise control for 8 minutes with RPMs between 1500-1800 RPM

Fuel level has to be between 1/4 and 3/4 (that one was odd to me)

 

That did it for me.  Sounds like AJ is already in touch and he'll get you fixed up one way or the other I'm sure.

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I wish i had Indiana tags! my other car does and i love there no inspections. next visit to Indiana, you bet your ass im re-registering my car.


Thanks for the Info Speedy. Be going back in a few days and will make sure to do this and stop at advance on the way and use there obd2. AJ is helping me with this at the moment.

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Bolded part confuses me.  Having the rear O2s off isn't screwing anyone, I've just seen it happen from time to time.  My main point to OP is that the EO has nothing to do with it.  That's only used in states like CA I believe.  Some customers want the O2s on, some want them off, and and when working on multiple tunes I can see how that can get mixed up and is a 5 minute fix.  Please don't read anything extra in to my posts, they mean what they mean and in this case I'm trying to help the guy get his car through emissions.  Living in an emissions state I know what a PITA it is.

 

OP, surprised the tech couldn't give you more details.  Here's what I did when it happened to me.  I went to Advanced Auto and borrowed their OBDII tool.  I hooked it up and scanned the car and it showed me the "monitor" status.  That should give you a good direction.  If they're not ready you can try driving in the readiness cycle to speed up the process.

 

Alternatively you can also key the ignition on but don't start the car.  Watch the MIL lamp.  If after about 10 seconds it starts flashing and then returns to fully illuminated the readiness monitors are NOT all set.  If when you key the ignition on the MIL lamp stays illuminated then they ARE set.  I learned that tip from Concussion on this forum. 

 

If they're not set then perform a specific drive cycle.

 

The drive cycle is kind of weird.  AJ actually helped me with that some time back.  I had loaded my street tune at the race track and driven 120 miles home.  The next day I went to get emission checked and failed for not ready.  I texted AJ and he responded with the drive cycle info so he can correct me if I get it wrong.

 

Fire car and let it idle for about 2 minutes to reach a coolant temp of at least 100°

Drive between 65 - 68 MPH without cruise control for 8 minutes with RPMs between 1500-1800 RPM

Fuel level has to be between 1/4 and 3/4 (that one was odd to me)

 

That did it for me.  Sounds like AJ is already in touch and he'll get you fixed up one way or the other I'm sure.

Jay

Im not over reading at all, It was obvious that the tone was that API was lazy and not doing a simple thing to help the OP. The rush to judgement in regards to these situation is what my comments are for. No where in the thread did I see any questions asked of the OP on drive cycle, how many miles ect... only finger pointing blaming API and an offer to turn 02 sensors on that weren't off in the first place. Now again I don't have a dog in the fight as API's business is no longer my business, but in the big picture API has done more for the community than most other vendors and has spent more money giving back to the community. Please don't get me wrong you wont see API engines in my ride any longer, Im just saying it can't be all doom and gloom.

just my humble opinion

AJ

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All I can say AJ is OK man. Your sensitivity has always been your Achilles heal on these forums.

 

OP let us know how you make out. May help someone in the future.

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All I can say AJ is OK man. Your sensitivity has always been your Achilles heal on these forums.

 

OP let us know how you make out. May help someone in the future.

This is true but you have to wear some heavy armor around these parts :) I am Passionate about what I do and sensitive to how people treat each other, especially in a community as tight as this one. So yep im guilty.

Have a Merry Christmas 

AJ

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StevO suggested the same issue as I did bud because it's a common thing. Not sure why my post would be taken any differently. You should know me well enough after all these years that I say what I mean no more no less.

 

Merry Christmas to you guys as well :)

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On ‎2014‎/‎12‎/‎20 at 10:34 AM, Speedy said:

 

Bolded part confuses me.  Having the rear O2s off isn't screwing anyone, I've just seen it happen from time to time.  My main point to OP is that the EO has nothing to do with it.  That's only used in states like CA I believe.  Some customers want the O2s on, some want them off, and and when working on multiple tunes I can see how that can get mixed up and is a 5 minute fix.  Please don't read anything extra in to my posts, they mean what they mean and in this case I'm trying to help the guy get his car through emissions.  Living in an emissions state I know what a PITA it is.

 

OP, surprised the tech couldn't give you more details.  Here's what I did when it happened to me.  I went to Advanced Auto and borrowed their OBDII tool.  I hooked it up and scanned the car and it showed me the "monitor" status.  That should give you a good direction.  If they're not ready you can try driving in the readiness cycle to speed up the process.

 

Alternatively you can also key the ignition on but don't start the car.  Watch the MIL lamp.  If after about 10 seconds it starts flashing and then returns to fully illuminated the readiness monitors are NOT all set.  If when you key the ignition on the MIL lamp stays illuminated then they ARE set.  I learned that tip from Concussion on this forum. 

 

If they're not set then perform a specific drive cycle.

 

The drive cycle is kind of weird.  AJ actually helped me with that some time back.  I had loaded my street tune at the race track and driven 120 miles home.  The next day I went to get emission checked and failed for not ready.  I texted AJ and he responded with the drive cycle info so he can correct me if I get it wrong.

 

Fire car and let it idle for about 2 minutes to reach a coolant temp of at least 100°

Drive between 65 - 68 MPH without cruise control for 8 minutes with RPMs between 1500-1800 RPM

Fuel level has to be between 1/4 and 3/4 (that one was odd to me)

 

That did it for me.  Sounds like AJ is already in touch and he'll get you fixed up one way or the other I'm sure.

Ok..... reviving this..... I have the same problem that Speedy had.

Last year I was very busy at work and had no time for the car. Finally in the fall I tried to put it on the road. It failed the emission. Reason is "Car not ready". Huh? I had driven the car for 40 minutes and the engine was at operating temperature. I figured that maybe the rear O2's were off in the tune. Screw it. I put the car back in storage.

Mike informed me that the O2's were in fact.... on.

Now... I want her back on the road. Did some research and found this thread.... whew.... thanks |Speedy and MMF!

I did everything in Speedy's post.

Gas tank half full.... check

Coolant over 100 degrees... check

Cruising between 104 kmh and 109 kmh ... check

Cruising between 1500 and 1800 rpm... FAIL.

Why? I changed the damn gear set from 3.06 to 3.55..... hence.... at 108 kmh.... my revs are at 2400

Finished the run and my cel is still flashing after 10 seconds with the ignition on.

So..... my gut says I will have to go to the dealer and have them reset the emissions parameters with their scan tool. I hope they can.

Does anyone know how to reset another way in order to get around the gear ratio/rpm rule?

BTW.... it was an awesome drive to work cruising with the HEMI.... smiling all the way to work.

Yeah.... driving with expired plates and no emissions pass..... had to watch my six for Smokey. Fun eh?

Stevo

   

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Ok..... reviving this..... I have the same problem that Speedy had.
Last year I was very busy at work and had no time for the car. Finally in the fall I tried to put it on the road. It failed the emission. Reason is "Car not ready". Huh? I had driven the car for 40 minutes and the engine was at operating temperature. I figured that maybe the rear O2's were off in the tune. Screw it. I put the car back in storage.
Mike informed me that the O2's were in fact.... on.
Now... I want her back on the road. Did some research and found this thread.... whew.... thanks |Speedy and MMF!
I did everything in Speedy's post.
Gas tank half full.... check
Coolant over 100 degrees... check
Cruising between 104 kmh and 109 kmh ... check
Cruising between 1500 and 1800 rpm... FAIL.
Why? I changed the damn gear set from 3.06 to 3.55..... hence.... at 108 kmh.... my revs are at 2400
Finished the run and my cel is still flashing after 10 seconds with the ignition on.
So..... my gut says I will have to go to the dealer and have them reset the emissions parameters with their scan tool. I hope they can.
Does anyone know how to reset another way in order to get around the gear ratio/rpm rule?
BTW.... it was an awesome drive to work cruising with the HEMI.... smiling all the way to work.
Yeah.... driving with expired plates and no emissions pass..... had to watch my six for Smokey. Fun eh?
Stevo
   


In 3 years of 3.91’s I never had this issue. That being said, i would have to drive the car for a week or two to get all the Duty cycle parameters met...short cycle, intermediate cycle, and long cycle. A Chrysler tech here explained that to me and I haven’t had a “not ready status” in years.


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30 minutes ago, rdrdr90 said:

 

 


In 3 years of 3.91’s I never had this issue. That being said, i would have to drive the car for a week or two to get all the Duty cycle parameters met...short cycle, intermediate cycle, and long cycle. A Chrysler tech here explained that to me and I haven’t had a “not ready status” in years.


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My gear set did not cause the flashing cel.... I think a dead battery was the cause. Sean, how do you rest the short... intermediate and long cycle? Is their a process?

Stevo

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My gear set did not cause the flashing cel.... I think a dead battery was the cause. Sean, how do you rest the short... intermediate and long cycle? Is their a process?
Stevo



It’s just driving. Short trips to the store where the car just hits operating temp, then cools down. Slightly longer trips and then the cool down (15-20 min). Then 30+ min of driving some at hwy speeds and cool down. The tech explained its more about the heat up and cool down than a specific rpm range.

Not saying the gear caused your CEL, you had said you were looking for an RPM range and you were over it because of your gear change.


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Thanks Sean. Going to do as you say..... drive her for a week.... see what happens.
Stevo
 


Good luck!


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This is all correct.  Simply driving the car will eventually set everything ready if there are no problems with one of the emission controls.

The drive pattern I describe above is just a shortcut.  It's there for when work is done on a car like new battery etc and a tech needs to get them all set before handing car back to a customer.  

Thankfully they've banned emissions tests where I live so no more of that crap for me.  

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Still have emissions testing in some counties in Texas....and I am in one of them. On my 10 Challenger I had Magnaflow HF cats... Rear O2 sensors would fail on some, mine being one. I added a set of Big Daddy's mini cats. Problem solved.

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Still have emissions testing in some counties in Texas....and I am in one of them. On my 10 Challenger I had Magnaflow HF cats... Rear O2 sensors would fail on some, mine being one. I added a set of Big Daddy's mini cats. Problem solved.

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I’m catless and I pass every time.


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Luckey you... With a tune or no tune. Me no tune.

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Tune, I’m blown. As AJ explained it to me, all he does is adjust the flow parameters on the rear O2’s for high flow or catless. That takes care of the cel’s.


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well, i have had not ready s for 2 years now. its caused by someone shutting off the o2 sensors in a tune. Lucky that in NC 2 not readys a 100 + miles apart , you can get a waiver if your car doesn't show codes when the gent comes out and makes you cycle your start button.

 or you can get someone to FIX the problem of not ready. :o

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10 hours ago, CruzKing said:

well, i have had not ready s for 2 years now. its caused by someone shutting off the o2 sensors in a tune. Lucky that in NC 2 not readys a 100 + miles apart , you can get a waiver if your car doesn't show codes when the gent comes out and makes you cycle your start button.

 or you can get someone to FIX the problem of not ready. :o

Mike says my O2's are on in the tune. Greg, if you have been driving for 2 years then you must have a problem with one of your emissions parts. Driving for a couple of days is supposed to clear the "Not ready" code.

 

Stevo

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No codes or check engine light only not ready when i go for inspection. To me that means that the o2 sensors are shut off.

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58 minutes ago, CruzKing said:

No codes or check engine light only not ready when i go for inspection. To me that means that the o2 sensors are shut off.

I thought the same Greg but I was wrong. Mike says my O2's are on. My problem is probably from a dead battery and not driving the car last year. I drove the car for 50 miles yesterday. I will drive a few more times this week.... shorter trips. Hopefully mine will clear by the end of the week.

 

Stevo 

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Question for all you gear heads out there.

See the source image

 

This is my third day of driving the car in order to reset the emissions parameters. Engine light still flashing. I am going to give it another 10 days of driving.

Mike sent me a revised tune awhile back in order to clear up some limp mode issues I was having last year. I did not install it because I put the car away.

If I install the tune.... will I erase all of the driving/recording parameters that I have done so far this week?

Is it better to wait, drive the car to erase the flashing light..... pass emissions and then install the revised tune?

 

Stevo  

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If it’s flashing, that is probably not going to reset. I missed that part in your earlier post.

Yes, I would install the new tune, and drive.


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