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us1champ

Advice

I havn't drove my car much this yr so this is odd but yet why not.. trying to track down a problem so to speak

 

if the car sits overnight it takes a little longer to start.. cranks longer before it fires..  if i start it.. shut if off it cranks right up.. let it sit for a hr  two or 4 ect starts up.. but overnight is takes a bit longer to start.. like a car with a return fuel systems and no check valve so to speak

 

this is a 6.1 motor stock with a magnuson supercharger and a arrington saddle pump on top of the factory fuel pump.

 

my questions are.. is a pump going bad?  i know when i hit the key one time and check pressure at the rail it is about 60.. ( with out the car running ) when the car runs it is a little over 60 psi.

 

is there a check valve on the factory pump or the arrington saddle pump ? that might be bad or going bad?

 

is one of the pumps going bad and if so how would you tell.

 

or is the pressure regulator ( if you call it that ) pump on the other side of the tank going bad and causing it to not hold pressure overnight?

 

this is all wire in no HOBBS SWITCH or anything like that. just the harness that arrington provides.. 

 

again this is odd as it just started.. no warnings..  afr is fine nothing strange to speak of.

 

this is the additonal pump

http://www.shophemi.com/p-2176-lxlc-hemi-dual-pump-fuel-hat-by-arrington-performance.aspx

 

any advice would be great

thanks

chris

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May or may not be helpful, but my new engine with an Arrington cam set up to go balls to the wall does take a bit to start now.  It does not start like factory, having to turn over a few times.  I hear the fuel pump when the ignition goes on.  It takes another 5 seconds or so before it is running smooth.  As I say, may or may not be helpful.  

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Try this. Turn the key on for five seconds, then off, then go for a start. If that ends your problem then yes something has the check valve open and pressure is bleeding off.

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Try this. Turn the key on for five seconds, then off, then go for a start. If that ends your problem then yes something has the check valve open and pressure is bleeding off.

will do cam

 

if it don't then what would the next thing be?

i wouldn't think any coil packs would be bad. or anything for spark as like i said.. once i start it the 1st time it is fine until it sits overnight.

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well i put the key in ( left the button in ) pushed it and let the pump run. shut it off turned the pumps on shut it off. pushed it again let the pumps run. then sit for about 10 sec.. started and still does the same long crank then fire.

 

suggestions?


note: once it starts you can shut it off and restart and it fires right back up

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yes talked to the tuner. he said not much more he can do..  i tried a older revision ( way before this started ) does the same thing so i am not real sure if it is tune or not

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This is a common complaint with Rams. It only happens with the first start of the day and only in the summer months. True never heard this with the challengers. Some think it has to do with the battery sensor temp charge readings.

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You checking the pressure at the rail when you get a no or hard start also?

If you have 60psi during a no start and 60psi during a normal start, you could probably rule out check valve.

Maybe start testing voltage at the relay on top of fuel hat during hard starts.

And FWIW, look at your inline fuse from battery to pump. I was having wonkey no start issue at one point and it turned out to be a loose 30amp fuse connection in the holder.

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i will do both.. thanks for the advise..  

 

question.. with having both the HAT and the stock pump in the car for the sake of arguement.. even if one quit. i would think the other pump would still start the car without issue? my thinking is the other pump is makeing up VOLUME of fuel sent to the engine or is my thinking jacked up..

 

in regards to the pressure.  I turn the key. let the pump cycle and check pressure at the rail. WITH OUT STARTING THE CAR. it is 60 or just a tick under..  then i start the car it is a little over 60 at idle.

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My car is a bit balky if I just get in it and crank it straight up. It will crank for a bit before stating, When hot it takes a bit longer than cold. I just go to on position, wait for pump to stop and then start. Has been this way since I had it rebuilt.

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Try this,

 

Push the gas pedal down 1/4 the way down as you turn / push the key to start. See if starts right up without the long cranking .

 

I'm thinking vapor.

 

Try it let me know.

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My car has slow crank start a lot, especially when hot.  Have to do what chukarboy said with pushing gas pedal down...

I think its called "hot start enrichment " it might  need some adjustment.  A tuner could answer that.   

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"Hot start enrichment" hum my car may need some of that to? Starts perfect cold but longer crank when warm. Any tuners here had to mess around with this setting??

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It's actually called cold start enrichment but it's based on ect so you can add fuel in just the warm restart area. It's not something that typically needs to be adjusted but I have had to do it in some instances when the injector scaling information wasn't the greatest. It can also be a startup airflow issue with bigger cams.

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