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RTWildChild

Rpm Transmission Install

162 posts in this topic

I bet Kenny above is on to something.  No I do not have any spacers behind my TOB in my setup.  We compared this new McLeod to the stock clutch on the bench and they were almost the same height.  The original McLeod I had was like an inch shorter, indicating my problem.

 

There is a spec and measurement method to determine TOB clearance.  I'd cross check that before doing anything.  Sad news is that when my first McLeod was the wrong P/N it trashed my RPM trans.  They had to rebuild it.  Said they'd never seen one so tore up, but strangely it drove fine on the street.  I only had issues at WOT shifts at the track.  Go figure..

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Thanks fellas, I'll have to triple check them again then. That would be crazy if the fidanza flywheel caused this issue with my McLeod clutch (P/N 6975-07M). I would have figured the issue would have happened right off the back not 2 months after I installed the RPM trans and flywheel.

 

Hopefully nothing resulted into it tearing up my RPM transmission.

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Thats the same video I think I posted in this same thread a few pages back. It is MANDATORY you check this with any clutch replacement that uses a hydraulic actuator. Shoot for .120"-.200" max. This clearance SHRINKS as the clutch wears. Also keep in mind your TOB has a spring behind it so it ALWAYS rides on the PP.

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Does anyone know what SPEC IS for clearance

I am installing a fadenza flywheel and txt clutch along with my new engine this weekend and I would like to check it before bolting things up

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Called and spoke with Jeremy at RPM Transmission, very cool patient dudes there. I told them the scenarios of what has been happening about engagement and disengagement of gears/clutch. Asked if he has had any feedback about McLeod and said “all has been good and normally work out great, hasn’t had a scenario where it was heard that shims were needed for my application or a McLeod Clutch was screwed due to mismatching fidanza flywheel (not meaning that mismatching wouldn’t be the case or shims would want to be tried though). Gave me some troubleshooting steps and actions that could happen which can help point me in the right direction.

 

 

 

1. Lift up the rear end of the car, engage into gear with clutch pedal still pressed to the ground and rev up the engine. If VERY VERY LITTLE play/movement occurs it would be normal. If movement occurs where letters on tires start becoming illegible (2-5mph), it would point towards issues with disengagement of the clutch and try shims or could be that the clutch/pilot bearing is screwed and cost wise to just send back to manufacturer for repairs.

 

 

 

2. If movement of tires does not occur, they advised there may be another issue at hand and that I could pull the transmission and send back to check for any issues and repair; if needed.

 

 

Going to call McLeod a little later and get some details from them as well. Probably also see if they have a flywheel and or slave cylinder/TB that I can match up all together. I think at this point, I will be patient, look over again, and just send back any parts that are fubar (if any) for repairs rather than spend money on new parts. Thought I would give updates to the thread.

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i just spoke with mcleod.

 

they said a min of .100 and a max of .250 WITH THE THROW OUT BEARING COMPLETELY COMPRESSED..

 

if i get to the point of the trans tonight i will keep you posted.. if you do let me know please as we both have the same flywheel and clutch combo.

 

chris

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Leaving enough air gap to compensate for expansion when the disc heat up is as critical as not having enuff. With a single disc .100-.150 is normal, I would think with a dual disc .175-.200 would be good. I think Ram recommends .200 for thier dual disc.

I sent a email to Center Force to see what they recommend for the one I have.

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In some cases, you need to crack the bleeder to release any air so it can compress all the way, they can get an air lock. Also, on my Viper TOB anyway, you can pop the bearing sleeve off the housing and remove the spring to help make getting an accurate measurement easier.

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Mcleods instructions for setting up their adjustable TOB is .100-.150". Doesn't mention which clutch. They also say in there that most OEM hydraulic TOB's have about .440-.445" of total travel and they design their clutches to operate in this window.

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Just went to look at my RPM before installation. Sure is purty!!! Also looked at the clutch which only has couple hundred miles and a few mile passes. Didn't look so great. Bunch of hotspots on it. I'm hoping that it just looks like shit since it has not really broken in, but it is what it is and I'm guessing the little dragging it was doing did it. No time to get a new one, so I'm gonna let it ride. 

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Just got off the phone with McLeod, explained the scenarios as I've described above. Recommendation was to bleed/replace the fluid within the system. If that doesn't work, remove and send the clutch back to them. At which point, they will test and put the clutch under pressure to see if there is any manufacturer error.

 

When I asked if there was any issues with the Fidanza & McLeod combination, he said "no it shouldn't and nothing that he heard of". When I asked about shims, they said that they spec their clutches to factory height and should all be correct without shims. BUT that it also wouldn't hurt to check.

 

Unfortunately, when asked I was informed McLeod doesn't offer an aftermarket flywheel or TOB for my car. I was also advised that IF shims were needed it would be a minimum .100-.250.

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FYI, that's what they told me when I had the wrong clutch.  I wasted a couple months swapping fluid and taking time to get back to the track.  NO change.

 

Having said that, I do run the Wilwood 600+ fluid which isn't a bad thing in a performance car.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-290-6209-Plus-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003MQT3C0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458935071&sr=8-1&keywords=600+plus+fluid

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FYI, that's what they told me when I had the wrong clutch. I wasted a couple months swapping fluid and taking time to get back to the track. NO change.

 

Having said that, I do run the Wilwood 600+ fluid which isn't a bad thing in a performance car.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-290-6209-Plus-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003MQT3C0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458935071&sr=8-1&keywords=600+plus+fluid

I use Motul RBF 600.

Thanks for the suggestions on DOT 4 fluids.

 

@BlueBlur - just to clarify, did you use Motul 8068HL RBF 600

OR

The Motul RBF 600

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Finally had some down time from business/work travel and Damn ... Clutch discs are completely fucked and burned out. Having a hard time seeing that this was due to my error. The McCleod RXT clutch was JUNK in my experience. Hopefully the Hays clutch will be more promising.

bf9eaf6086fcb8ddede3ac5b2a1cf047.jpg001606ff854a585d03eb710d860e874c.jpg0dee4b3eb59e3b938bb839682f58a4fc.jpghttps://vimeo.com/179597886

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Not sure on exact mileage, but definitely no more than 5k miles. Installed late 2014/early 2015 and broke late 2015. Not my daily driver.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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... wouldn't put a shim behind the TOB unless you have verified the air gap is to much, don't want the TOB constantly running against the pressure plate...

From the looks of things, it looks like it may have been doing that or the clutch was simply a piece of shit and defective. NO shimming was done. Parts were put on and assembled accordingly with box instructions.

 

Wow.

Tell me about it...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I had the exact opposite with the Dyad. Something went wrong with the PP and the discs floated even when completely free. With the tranny out you could move the discs with your fingers.

 

Put the RXT in. Hope if does better than that!

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