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Blue Blur

Oem Water Pump Worth The Coin? My Shits Leaking!

Yeah so bought a water pump couple years ago that was a "new in box oem SRT Jeep" pump and it definitely looked new, and has factory part #. 2 things, well maybe 4, first I have always smelled a hint of antifreeze since first drive, had hoses leaking, pipe fitting seeping etc. and tightened shit up and never had puddles or drips just seepage. Radiator needed topped off probably every 4-500 miles so I knew the shit was going somewhere and thought it would push it out the over flow on the ground SLOWLY over time so I put on a 30 lb cap on to stop that shit. Well went for drive friday night and first 6000+ rpm pull got water on the windshield, hood was off. Today let it warm up in garage and sure as shit its the water pump weep hole. So im broke and wonder if aftermarket pumps are junk, and will I need to just get one from HHP and put it to bed? Also going to mount a recovery tank and change cap to a 20 lb stant "recovery cap" to maybe ease the pressure. This thing has always made a shit load of pressure, no matter the cap, and I have needed to double clamp ALL hose connections to keep the hoses on, is this normal? LOTS of water pump pressure, never any sign of water in oil. Wondering if its possible I got a bunk pump and that was the source of all my issues from the get go?

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Sound like a PITA. . . . .I'd start with checking simple stuff.

 

- Air in the system

- Bad thermostat closed

- Are the hoses collapsing shut (should have spring inside the lower hose I believe).

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It's not hose collapse,the lower one has a spring. Once it's back together I'll go over the hoses again. What's weird is the lower has pressure most of the time.

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The recovery tank, lower psi cap and a NEW pump fixed it. The last pump was in a Mopar box. It had no signs of bearing problems, tight and turned like new. Anyway, recovery tank is basically dry and radiator level hasnt changed yet after probably 150 miles of driving like I just robbed a bank.

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Bringing this back up, still slinging water around during basically 6500 and up. Any of you guys with built engines spinning past 6500? I shift at 6800 and can remove my hood and drive my Dart for testing. Stock 6.1 car water pump and front cover setup. Just about like clock work at 6500 ish I get a mist of coolant on the windshield. Cannot see leakage any other way, havent pressure tested it yet though dont have a tester. Its already on its second WP at about 2500 miles. Do these pumps just shit the bed from to much RPM or what? This is a head scratcher, there was coolant under the bolt under the WP pulley and a drop on the belt at the crank pulley but the weep hole is dry and the snout of the WP is dry to. WTF again.

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What mods do you have? I'm wondering if you have belt alignment issues.

 

Any chance you could have a head gasket leak into the coolant adding pressure? At the higher RPM's it would be adding the most pressure into the coolant system.

 

I'm in a mostly stock 392. No issues with the original parts.

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Stroked 6.1/420, ARP head bolts, stock head gaskets. I would think if it was a gasket my overflow tank would be full with the 18 lb cap. Rev limiter is set at 6800, it will easily go past that but not necessary IMO. Its coming from the WP area but nothing is obvious, doesnt leak when driving or idling or sitting. Plus the cooling system holds pressure after parked for a few days. Sucky type of deal, if I knew what to fix, I would. Who else on here is spinning theirs hard with a stock pump? I know of plenty of guys that spin them in drag cars but they all have electric pumps.

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We spin our stuff higher than 6800 on OEM water pumps without issue. I was told by the dealer that CarQuest actually uses Mopar pumps so maybe give them a try. Even if it ends up being a knock-off I don't think you will have any issues with it.

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Its the fucking water pump AGAIN, that makes 2 OEM pumps in 2000 miles. Seriously considering just epoxying the weep hole shut. That is for sure where its coming from, both of them did the same bullshit. Bone stock 6.1 acc. drive EXCEPT, an aftermarket PS pump and an ATI 5% balancer. If I change pumps im done with the OE pumps thats for sure.

IMAG0453_zpssbub65ax.jpg

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Main things that come to mind, process of elimination, I'm sure you have ran through it 100 times.

 

Excesses belt tension, but that would knock out the bearing also.

Cavitation from over spinning it, you are running a 5% O.D ATI ? That shouldn't be the issue.

Restriction on the suction side of the pump causing cavitation, hose etc. ??

Possibly running excessive cooling system pressure, killing the seal ?

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Looked at my cap and its a 20-22 lb. Will change that to a 16 lb. Im all out of fixes after that. Wonder if the balance is off bad enough to shake them to death? Was balanced locally but it wasnt their first rodeo. Restriction and cavitation usually have overheating as another side effect. I have to try really hard to get it to 210 even, 90% of the time its 185-190 degrees.

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