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Bruce*

Whippled 06 300C Srt8

78 posts in this topic

Update:  Took the car home and really started to test her out and noticed something wasn't quite right.  I would floor it and it just wasn't pulling like it should.  So, I send Erik some logs and the car is only pushing 6 psi at 6000 rpm.  Erik has me check for a vacuum leak and I don't see any so he suggested that I remove the jet from the bypass valve.  I take the car for a spin and it's like HOLY SHIT!  The car is NUTZ.  Send Erik a log and I'm at 14.2 psi, no knock, and good A/F.  Erik is thinking the my car is actually closer to 700 rwhp.  May need a 3 bar map sensor because this fall I may get up to or over 15 psi.  I guess I'll drive the car around without the jet and see how is behaves and if it's not too bad then I'll just leave it out.  I might also mention that I had on BFG Goodrich sport comp 2 tires and they stuck pretty well for what I was putting them through.

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I got a lot of learning to do.  Couldn't get the car to hook up at all.  I'm using M&H 275/50/17 drag radials with 17 psi. to start. My first pass was with a 2.23 60' @ 124 mph in the 1/4 and 12.0 ET.  Not exactly what I wanted.  I may of not heated the tires up good enough the first pass.  The second pass was about the same.  I got a set of slicks, not sure if that would be the better route.  One of the staff told me I wouldn't be able to make any more passes because I was losing coolant from somewhere.  Checked everywhere and couldn't find anything.  It's only under pressure that the coolant is leaking out.  I have no leaks where I park my car.  Planning on taking the car Monday to have the system pressure checked.  Hopefully it's just a loose clamp somewhere or could be the cap on the coolant reservoir.  Erik thought I might need a 21 psi. cap.  I know this  car is a 10 sec. car with the right driver.  I got a few more months before the track closes, so maybe I can get that 10 sec. slip before years end.  

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AC was off. 

 

Another thought was if my radiator hoses are not spring reinforced they could be collapsing from the water pump spinning so fast and then causing the the coolant reservoir to over pressurize.  I'll have to check and see.

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AC was off.

 

Another thought was if my radiator hoses are not spring reinforced they could be collapsing from the water pump spinning so fast and then causing the the coolant reservoir to over pressurize. I'll have to check and see.

That was my thought. Been there done that.

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That was my thought. Been there done that.

Upper hose is reinforced, but the lower one is not.  Will either replace lower with a new one or find a reinforced one.  Any idea where I can get a spring loaded lower hose?

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Go rent a radiator pressure tester and pump the system up to 15lbs and leave it alone for an hour. It could also be the coolant in the HE too so don't rule that out. Last weekend when I went to install new tension struts on the mag I dropped the pan and found a pretty decent puddle myself. Turns out the damn radiator side was separating from the core, fuck me.

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Car is fixed now.  There was a small roll in the gasket between the front cover and block.  Gonna try and make it to the track again sometime this month...may take me a few trips to figure out how to launch this beast.  I read a comment the other day that was perfect for me, " I need someone to build me a 9 sec. car so I can make it go 10s.  lol

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Made it to the track last night and was able to pull off a 11.18 sec run @ 124.6 mph with a 1.86 60'.  Couldn't get the car to hook up with the DRs (15 psi).  I had a tire with my tool bag in the trunk and full tank of gas.  Threw the belt off on the last pass....What a pain in the ass to put back on when the motor is still hot.  Burnt the shit out of my hands/arms getting that sucker back on.  The track was getting ready to close, so I didn't have time to let it cool down.  Sent Erik some logs to see what the issue is with the car, he thought that the throttle blade was closing for some reason. He'll get a better look tomorrow and see if there is a fix. I spun a little on the last pass and then took off and then all of a sudden the car just quit making power and i had to coast down the rest of the way. So I think that whenever the car fell on its  face, that allowed the belt to get some slack and finally come off.  I'm pretty happy with my results...but I think I should be able to get a mid 10 sec pass if I can get a 1.6x 60'.  May switch to some slicks and see what happens.  I also have a set of skinnies, which were not on last night, so that would give me another .1 sec, possibly.

post-5563-0-84110400-1477853986_thumb.jpg

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Added a tow hook this weekend, just in case I break down at the track at some point.  I made a bracket that attaches to the underside of the bumper and had it exit out the vent.  I wasn't really wanting to drill through the fascia.

post-5563-0-79223700-1478458022_thumb.jpg

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A few things to think about. I would get the GT500 from Andy at Eastcoastmoparts.com he has the best price on it. But it doesn't come with the adapter. I made my own using my friends as a template. To change belts at the track if ever necessary get the slim tension tool sold at harbor freight with a cheater bar on top. Because that Gt 500 tensioner is a bear. The dayco will wear out with 14 psi or more. My friend Rich went thru 3 belts and two dayco tensioners before he brought the GT 500. No issues since then. Also with slicks we both average 1.5 to 1.8 60 feet.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/serpentine-belt-tool-kit-66344.html

 

http://www.eastcoastmoparts.com/common-hemi-parts-bt92-gt-500-tensioner

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A few things to think about. I would get the GT500 from Andy at Eastcoastmoparts.com he has the best price on it. But it doesn't come with the adapter. I made my own using my friends as a template. To change belts at the track if ever necessary get the slim tension tool sold at harbor freight with a cheater bar on top. Because that Gt 500 tensioner is a bear. The dayco will wear out with 14 psi or more. My friend Rich went thru 3 belts and two dayco tensioners before he brought the GT 500. No issues since then. Also with slicks we both average 1.5 to 1.8 60 feet.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/serpentine-belt-tool-kit-66344.html

 

http://www.eastcoastmoparts.com/common-hemi-parts-bt92-gt-500-tensioner

He got the american racing solutions tensioner. It blows the GT500 out of the water.

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He got the american racing solutions tensioner. It blows the GT500 out of the water.

Erik please post more info, its always good to know that there are more solutions available. So far the GT500 is working out. *ninja* lol never mind I googled it...is this the one? Does it require an adapter, it looks like it doesn't. Just want to make sure for future reference. Thanks for the info

 

http://americanracingsolutions.com/product-tag/hemi-tensioner/

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They are also a vendor here. Erik posted a video of it on my car for belt chirp. No adapter required, has 1/2 inch hole and also 15mm notch on the bottom should you need to access it from the bottom.

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Well I installed  a new 3 bar map sensor the other night and downloaded the revised tune and took the car out for some data logging.  I shredded the belt and broke a piece off the power steering pulley. Fortunately I was able to make it back home before the car over heated. I ordered the aluminum pulley from HHP and am hoping this will solve my issues.  I am wondering if the plastic pulley may of been flexing under heavy load and that allowed the the belt to come off initially at the track and eventually the pulley  broke under the continual pressure.  

 

 

BTW:  If someone needs to install a 3 bar map you might need to shave off some of the tabs to make it fit.  I couldn't figure out why in the hell this damn thing wouldn't connect... then I remembered reading somewhere that the tabs might need to be shaved down.

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Installed the new ps pulley and loosened the idler pulley about 2.5mm from where it was originally.  Took the car out for just a few minutes and the belt came off about the 2nd or 3rd time i got on it hard.  Got back home and put the belt back on and this time I tightened the idler pulley about 3-4mm from the original setting.  Took the car out again and the tires spun just a bit and this time the belt was tore in two.  Brought the car back home and reset the idler pulley to the original setting, put a new belt on and will take it down to a shop and see if the pulleys are aligned.  I measured from the block to the outer edge of the stock pulley and made sure that i got the same reading after installing the new HHP pulley.  It's got to be a misalignment, I would think.  The new tensioner from ARS is better than the dayco for sure, but I'm still getting some belt chatter and the tensioner wants to bounce around a lilttle, especially when the car is first started.  It's not as bad once the car is warmed up.  

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