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Bruce*

Whippled 06 300C Srt8

78 posts in this topic

May of found the problem.  The belt is riding on the back side of the tensioner pulley.  We put a spacer on to push the pulley out just a bit so the belt would ride more in  the center.  Hope this is a fix.

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Looks like my belt issue is solved!  Took the car out and tested it pretty well...no belt issues so far.  Track is closed for the year, so I'll have to wait until next spring to try to get my 10 sec pass.  

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Man that's good news.  Problems like that get so frustrating.  Does the Whipple have alignment issues like this with frequency or was it due to a custom setup on your ride?

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Man that's good news.  Problems like that get so frustrating.  Does the Whipple have alignment issues like this with frequency or was it due to a custom setup on your ride?

I think it must of just been unique to my setup.  I am using the ARS tensioner and after it was installed that's when the belt issues started.  I didn't realize how close the belt was to the back side of the tensioner pulley.  The solution was easy enough, it was just the process of figuring out the root cause.  I'm planning on pushing the car to its limits over the next day or two and really get a sense of whether or not my problem is solved.  On other issue that I'm still having a little bit of grief over is the tensioner still wanting to bounce about at idle.  It's significantly better than before, but I wish I could get it resolved completely.  I don't know of any other fix...I have the best tensioner out there for our platform.  I can live with it, but it's kinda embarrassing when you have a car with a nice lope and you hear an intermittent sqeaking sound.  It's not as bad though once the car is warmed up.  

 

Update:  Took the car out  and flogged it pretty well and I was able to throw the belt.  It did stay on better than before, but something is still not quite right.  I'm wondering if I need to add another washer to the tensioner pulley so that the belt rides up more towards the front of the pulley.

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I'd suggest you remove the fans, clamp a straight edge to your damper pulley and check the alignment. I've never had very good success with the lasers, but doing it with a straight edge has always been money. Problem is unless you have a machine shop at your finger tips, it's a bit difficult making all the various shims to get it dialed in.

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Got the go pro video, but having trouble reviewing it. My buddy was watching it though while I was driving and I did several hard passes with the last pass going all out and when I let out that's when the belt broke.  I'll see if I can get the video uploaded, but i don't think it's an alignment issue.  The strange thing is that before i switched to the new tensioner I hadn't broke or thrown a single belt.  I made the switch hoping that it would stop the bouncing that the dayco was suffering from.  I may try and go back to my dayco and just see if I have any more belt issues.  What about a clutched pulley on the SC?  I've read that the hellcat has a clutched pulley and that helps with reducing slack in the belt as you let off the throttle.

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Here's two videos of what I'm dealing with right now.  The video of the belt flying off is just the last few seconds before it lets go.  You can see, in slow motion, right before it breaks the belt creeps over the front edge of the water pump pulley.  Not sure that is signigicant or not, but I am replacing the plastic idler pulley that is adjacent to the water pump pulley with a steel one.  I made several hard passes before it broke and you could see that as I let out the belt wanted to raise up a bit before it settled back down.  The tensioner that I'm using is the racing hemi tensioner from ARS.  It's a quality product, but I'm still have issues with the tensioner bouncing.

 

https://youtu.be/z_JPzRpFCPI

 

https://youtu.be/QFPCpbX9OXI

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Oh I've seen many times. The belt will always run off towards the high side. Another words one of the pulleys or more are not parallel to the crank pulley. Even if they are inline and one is skewed it'll run the belt off.

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Looks like I will go get the pulleys checked for alignment sometime soon, just to make sure, before I go looking for other issues.  Appreciate all the advice/information.

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I installed the new steel pulley the other day and I'm thinking that may of solved my issue with throwing the belt.  The pulley that i ordered (dayco part # 89016 ) is about 13mm wider and 6mm more in diameter than the stock pulley.  I had to place a spacer behind the pulley to keep it from rubbing the bracket on the back side.  I took the car out this evening and did a few hard pulls and all is well so far.  My next issue is to get the tensioner under control.  I'm thinking that I may have to get the adapter plate and gt 500 tensioner and that will allow me to reposition the tensioner pulley closer to the ps pulley.  If that doesn't work, then I'm out of ideas.

 

Edit:  I may try the ARS Hemi Tensioner with the adapter plate and see where that gets me.  I may just have to add a spacer on the back side of the tensioner pulley to compensate for the adapter.  Hopefully I'll be able to get the tensioner tool in there without too much hassle.

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I recently gave the GT 500 tensioner and adapter plate a try,with a longer belt, and that seems to be doing a little better.  The tensioner still bounces a idle, but there is no squeaking associated with it, like there was with the ARS tensioner.  The ARS Racing Hemi tensioner actually feels like it has a stronger spring, so I'm not sure why I'm having better luck with the GT 500.  

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I've had the chance to do so hard pulls and I'm no longer throwing belts.  The wider steel pulley next to the water pump did the trick.  GT500 tensioner is also holding up nicely.   Will be getting some slicks in the next few months and see how I do at the track.  I should be able to pull off a 10.6 or 10.7 ET.  I'm also contemplating sending two of my stock rims to weld craft and have them widened to 20x10 and get a set of MT S/S 305/35/20 to run on the street.  I guess a 6mm spacer would be enough to give me clearnance?

 

On a side note, I've noticed that my key fob was acting erratic and would not lock/unlock the doors.  Turns out the trinity is causing the interference.  I guess I'll just have to unplug it whenever I need to lock the car, unless someone has an alternate fix.

 

Thanks,

Bruce

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Made it to the track once so far and was having issues with losing boost halfway down the track.  Turns out my bypass valve was leaking.  It's kinda strange that it would work sometimes and other times it wouldn't.  Anyway, I installed a new bypass that's reinforced with kevlar and I also rerouted my vacuum line from the SC and I'm back in business.  Planning on hitting the track soon again and this time I'll just trailer it down...bought my buddies aluminum trailer a few weeks ago.  Makes it a whole lot easier to swap tires at home and just load/unload the car, race, load back up and on my way back home.  Best I could do last run was a 11.29 @ 126mph with a 1.97 60'.  Had the slicks too.  The track prep sucks, but I  think I needed to heat them up a bit more and ease it out of the hole.  On one of my passes I had a 1.67 60', but lost boost half way down and ended up with a 12.0 @ 101 mph...that would of been my 10 sec pass if the car hadn't fallen on it's face. 

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Made it to the track the other night and the best I could do was 11.01 @ 126 mph with a 1.78 60'.  Traction is still the issue. This particular pass was the last one of the night and after I added about 100 pounds in the trunk.  I was down to 16 psi on the slicks.  The slicks that I'm using are Hoosier 28 x 10, but they are probably 5-6 years old.  I think that could be part of my problem, so I'm planning on ordering a new set to try out the next time I hit the track.  I have lakewood 70/30 shocks up front and lighter springs.  The back is stock except for solid cradle bushings.

 

 

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I have run as low as 14 on my slicks, it can be a bit squirrely at the big end, but not a big deal. Even when I was running 10.5 ET though, I never had traction issues with the slicks, but I was running a D1 at 12 psi, best 60' was 1.54 I think.

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I've got a 2.9 whipple on a 426 pushing 11PSI (think it was about 712 to the wheels). I'm hoping to hit the track this weekend but have only had her on the track one time with this set up and she was running 10.5x at 132-133 with high 1.5 low 1.6 60' times. My converter stall was too high which has been changed so I am hoping to better that a bit. Suspension mods are lakewood drag shocks all around, solid cradle bushings, 8.8 rear with 3.23 gears and I am running the 28x10 slicks.

Hope you get it sorted out

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Pulled off a 10.73 sec pass @ 128 mph with a 1.78 60'.  That was my best pass of the night and my first pass.  I got the new slicks and my burnout was mediocre at best....having trouble with my race tune not completley disabling my TC.  My second pass was 11.01 and the remaining 2 passes were duds.  I think the track prep was decent to start, but as the night went on it stated to get slick.  Does anyone enable their TC after after they do their burnout?  My last pass I got half way down the track and lost all my boost.  I hope my new bypass valve didn't crap out on me.  

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On 1/20/2017 at 10:39 AM, Bruce* said:

I've had the chance to do so hard pulls and I'm no longer throwing belts.  The wider steel pulley next to the water pump did the trick.  GT500 tensioner is also holding up nicely.   Will be getting some slicks in the next few months and see how I do at the track.  I should be able to pull off a 10.6 or 10.7 ET.  I'm also contemplating sending two of my stock rims to weld craft and have them widened to 20x10 and get a set of MT S/S 305/35/20 to run on the street.  I guess a 6mm spacer would be enough to give me clearnance?

 

On a side note, I've noticed that my key fob was acting erratic and would not lock/unlock the doors.  Turns out the trinity is causing the interference.  I guess I'll just have to unplug it whenever I need to lock the car, unless someone has an alternate fix.

 

Thanks,

Bruce

Was that the issue?

22519088_1838074949856645_8513680279540688353_n.jpg

22491482_1838074939856646_8758159326120957829_n.jpg

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