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funkpolice

Any Advise Removing Heads?

36 posts in this topic

Hello.  I busted something at the track a few weeks ago and want to pull the heads to get a better look to determine if I can repair, replace/upgrade the heads, or if I'm looking at a new motor.   Is there anything I should do differently than instructed in the service manual?  It looks pretty straight forward, but I know lots of times there are better/easier ways to do things.  What does the Miller Toolspart#9070 do?  Is it for aligning the push rods?  I ordered all new bolts and gaskets and want to know if I need that tool as well.  I have 90% leakage in cylinder 1 and melted ground straps on those two plugs.  I poked around for bit with a scope and didn't see anything out of sorts.  The top side of the heads looks to be ok, so I'm thinking maybe some damage to the exhaust valve or seal.  I think that most of that 90% leakage was coming out the tail pipe, but it was hard to tell for sure with my crappy air compressor running almost continuously.  thanks,

bill

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Well the plugs being melted isn't a good thing, it went lean on that cylinder for some reason.

 

I would pull the valve cover and check the spring's on that cylinder, sounds like the ext spring may have broke.

 

The Miller tool is not a must, just holds the intake pushrods making it easier to install the rocker arms. I've never used one of these tools.

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I checked springs and didn't see any broken.   I couldn't turn any or feel any play in them.  It was my first guess after the leakdown test as they are stock springs with 130k on them.  It's on my list of things to upgrade before I hit the track again, but I need to pull the heads to find out how much damage there is before I decide what I'm going to do.  The plugs were two step colder than stock Brisk plugs and I had c16 in a dedicated fuel cell.  There is without a doubt an issue with the nitrous kit, but I have all winter to sort that out.   Thanks for you input concerning the miller tool.  When I looked at the images of it that was my best guess as for what it did.  I should be able to leave the headers on the heads when I pull them out right?

 

bill

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The likelihood of it only being head damage is pretty slim slim. If you torched the plugs like that you most likely torched the piston. My only suggestion is to make sure you drain the heads before you remove them. You're gonna have a pretty good mess to clean up even draining the coolant out, but if ya don't it's a SUPER mess. Good luck

 

Yes you can leave the headers on.

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Disconnect the neg battery terminal.  Speaking from experience when that pass side header bolt touches the start for some reason it's fireworks time lol

 

Nothing special.  Just lots of bolts.  Pay attention to torque specs and sequence during re-install.  You're gonna have a coolant mess no matter what as Cam mentions, but definitely drain as much as you can.

 

If you hookup air to that cylinder you can see if you hear it leaking somewhere when on the compression stroke to see if it's valves.  If you hear a hiss at the tail pipe, exhaust, intake hiss, then intake obviously.

 

I used a cardboard box to hold the pushrods and labeled them so I'd know which one went where for re-assembly.

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If you don't have longtubes, leave the header bolted to the head. Removal will go much quicker. I've heard of people removing the heads with longtubes bolted up but have not done so myself. I'm not sure I would try it as you will undoubtedly scratch things up.

 

Spin the motor over a few times during reassembly after you get the rocker arms back on. Many people install the pushrod into the rocker arm socket incorrectly (it is easy to mess this up). Spinning the engine with the valve covers off will show you if you did this step correctly. 

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Leave the LTs on for both removal and installation.

 

^^^^^  This, far far easier and if you are careful, you wont scratch anything up.  And you can ensure you get all the header bolts tight .

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Now the golden question if the motor has to come out can u put it back in the headers on?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stockers you can. Not required but I highly suggest removing the studs or you will scratch up the inner fenders plus cuss like a drunken sailor when those catch the wiring harness going back in.

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If at all possible if the motor has to come out take it out the bottom with the k-member.  Real quick that way, but requires a lift.

 

Exactly. Headers both stock and LTs can be left on for engine removal and installation. Usually if I have to pull both heads and/or cam I'll just take the engine out and do everything on the ground. It's much easier to work on the engine when it's sitting right in front of you!

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If at all possible if the motor has to come out take it out the bottom with the k-member. Real quick that way, but requires a lift.

I here that I have a lift. I have never done it that way and really don't know what is involved in doing it that way

 

Do u have to have the car alignment done after doing it this way ?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Chris it's really easy but more then I want to type on my phone. Call me if you want the skinny. And no alignment needed but you will be recharging the AC.

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I pulled mine from below and kept the ac compressor hooked up and tied in the car. Saves the recharge hassle

And just how in the fuck did you do that.

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And just how in the fuck did you do that.

Haha it was my first time pulling the motor and I think I read on lxf I could leave it hooked up. I unbolted it and as I inched the assembly down I could barely twist it enough to clear and then left it tied up. It didn't look possible to me and I almost unhooked it but tried and it worked

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And just how in the fuck did you do that.

This is how I've always done it. Unbolt the compressor from the engine, remove the PS pump, and it fits right up where the PS pump used to be. From there just wrap it to prevent scratches and tie it up out of the way.

 

Armed with a lift, dropping the engine/trans/crossmember out the bottom can take three hours or less.

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Welp anyone able to do it that way I say good on you cause my experience has been slightly different. :)

 

For a NA motor I can usually have it on my cart start to finish in right about an hour and much prefer doing it this way then pulling it.

post-821-0-08134200-1480889666_thumb.jpg

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I got a pair of new heads, push rods, lifters, and a long tube headers on the car this weekend.  It went well, thank you for the tips.  all 8 cylinders are holding between 92% and 95% now.  I might be paranoid, but the valve train sounds louder to me now.  not banging, but ticking.  it seems like the headers are broadcasting the ticking noise.

 

Here is what I found on the old heads.

IMG_0124_zpsapyks1gr.jpg

 

I found the pieces of the valve wedged in the perimeter of the catalytic converter.

bill

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Well the I would suggest checking to see how much preload these push rods create. I've seen lots of reworked heads that the valve installed height varies enough to create n issue. The stock preload is .100. So a variance of .050 on the valve installed height can create all kinds of issues from too little preload to bottoming out the lifter.

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