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JJhamitlon

Boost Is Coming!

297 posts in this topic
3 minutes ago, Speedy said:

That's the spirit.  That was the hardest decision for me selling OK to get the Hellcat, anyone can just buy a Hellcat, it takes spirit to build one.

Shoulda left the original message as it's pertinent.  I think a lot don't tell the full story, I always did, and do.  I don't know how my original dff lasted.  I was so sure it would explode at some point I bought a spare that sat in the attic 6 years.  The ONLY thing I can guess is my driving style saved it.  I always let the clutch out to the grab point at the track to pre-load the drive line and take all the slack and shock load out.  That and the slicks with their forgiving sidewalls likely kept me in tact.  The only thing I ever broke was a DSS half shaft axle.  They replaced it no question asked and upon analysis told me the cage was made of an improper material.

Hey Speedy no offense meant about the HC comment, I'd honestly weighed the decision about just going to a HC myself. And even though I do believe they are awesome and are definitely one of the best bang for the buck performance wise, it's actually a very smart choice when it comes right down to it logically....

When I'm at the track, or even the car show...it's the modded sub models I find the coolest, have the most..character and charm..if that makes since? I see and know the investment there, not just monetary investment either...there's more, in sure you know what I mean..

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i revised it as i don't like to sling mud for no reason and didn't want someone to take it out of context like so many do... it just befuddles me how and why things work.. my thing is/was how and why some can keep things together, while others can't..  i get your reasons.. i also can't figure mine out.. i am considering doing bushings.. more control arms ect.. all in a quest to eliminate the wheel hop which i think is a major route cause for alot of issues..   then again i don't drag race.. i don't track it EVER so it it worth it for messing around..   i have kicked around going or trying to go to 18" wheels.. in essence the same thing more side wall more give vs 20" wheels.  but finding wheels in a 18" that i like and will fit is a pain in the ass

 

as for the op and his issues..  i don't know if i would have went out and got the driveshaft till i was sure.. but hey one less part to eliminate.. now keep in mind.. in doing so you have now taken more of the GIVE out.. the factory drive line has a 2 pcs doing and rubber couplers.. so it OBSORBS things.. so now in some sort of fashion  you may have more noise and drive line stuff due to that

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23 minutes ago, us1champ said:

i revised it as i don't like to sling mud for no reason and didn't want someone to take it out of context like so many do... it just befuddles me how and why things work.. my thing is/was how and why some can keep things together, while others can't..  i get your reasons.. i also can't figure mine out.. i am considering doing bushings.. more control arms ect.. all in a quest to eliminate the wheel hop which i think is a major route cause for alot of issues..   then again i don't drag race.. i don't track it EVER so it it worth it for messing around..   i have kicked around going or trying to go to 18" wheels.. in essence the same thing more side wall more give vs 20" wheels.  but finding wheels in a 18" that i like and will fit is a pain in the ass

 

as for the op and his issues..  i don't know if i would have went out and got the driveshaft till i was sure.. but hey one less part to eliminate.. now keep in mind.. in doing so you have now taken more of the GIVE out.. the factory drive line has a 2 pcs doing and rubber couplers.. so it OBSORBS things.. so now in some sort of fashion  you may have more noise and drive line stuff due to that

I'm also amazed at how some can get things to survive for so long and it's seems like I can destroy these same items with no effort. I've seen countless run many 1/4 passes on the stock axles, rear and driveshaft with the same or more hp with no issues. I guess I just drive aggressively...probably incorrectly 

*For the record, I didn't order the driveshaft until I was sure the coupler was destroyed. I've read there is no issue with pronounced vibration or noise from the revised versions of the DSS 1 piece...I'm hoping not ?

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On 12/6/2017 at 6:54 PM, JJhamitlon said:

Hey Speedy no offense meant about the HC comment, I'd honestly weighed the decision about just going to a HC myself. And even though I do believe they are awesome and are definitely one of the best bang for the buck performance wise, it's actually a very smart choice when it comes right down to it logically....

When I'm at the track, or even the car show...it's the modded sub models I find the coolest, have the most..character and charm..if that makes since? I see and know the investment there, not just monetary investment either...there's more, in sure you know what I mean..

No offense taken whatsoever, don't sweat that junk.  I agree 100% that built cars have more character.  

On 12/6/2017 at 7:15 PM, us1champ said:

i revised it as i don't like to sling mud for no reason and didn't want someone to take it out of context like so many do... it just befuddles me how and why things work.. my thing is/was how and why some can keep things together, while others can't..  i get your reasons.. i also can't figure mine out.. i am considering doing bushings.. more control arms ect.. all in a quest to eliminate the wheel hop which i think is a major route cause for alot of issues..   then again i don't drag race.. i don't track it EVER so it it worth it for messing around..   i have kicked around going or trying to go to 18" wheels.. in essence the same thing more side wall more give vs 20" wheels.  but finding wheels in a 18" that i like and will fit is a pain in the ass

 

as for the op and his issues..  i don't know if i would have went out and got the driveshaft till i was sure.. but hey one less part to eliminate.. now keep in mind.. in doing so you have now taken more of the GIVE out.. the factory drive line has a 2 pcs doing and rubber couplers.. so it OBSORBS things.. so now in some sort of fashion  you may have more noise and drive line stuff due to that

No it's a good question not slinging mud.  I was either lucky, or good, but I'll take lucky any day LOL.  I had a DSS chromoly two piece drive shaft in OK.  I came across one cheap, but raced the stock shaft for a long time.

Wheel hop will kill parts, that is for sure.  Anytime I even thought I had wheel hop I let off the gas immediately.  I ended up making enough power that I just blew through it and only had to watch it on DRs at the strip, so I switched to slicks and never had another problem.

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Interesteing jay
I am at 679 whp and I still get it from time to time
Stock 9” wheels and 275 tires.

I don’t get it. That is why I am looking at bushings and wider wheels if I can find some I like that arnt 3000 bucks


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2 minutes ago, us1champ said:

Interesteing jay
I am at 679 whp and I still get it from time to time
Stock 9” wheels and 275 tires.

I don’t get it. That is why I am looking at bushings and wider wheels if I can find some I like that arnt 3000 bucks


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What about a hop not kit?

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I have looked into it. It really seams like a bandage and a damb expensive one at that.
I also have called the guy 4 times and he won’t call back so he can go pound sand.

I wonder if Camero and mustangs have the same issues being independent suspensions


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51 minutes ago, us1champ said:

I have looked into it. It really seams like a bandage and a damb expensive one at that.
I also have called the guy 4 times and he won’t call back so he can go pound sand.

I wonder if Camero and mustangs have the same issues being independent suspensions


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Well a bandage aids in stoping the bleeding bro. Though I've heard It doesn't cure it completely, Ive heard from several it helps tremendously, which if the company won't contact you I can see that being an issue too...if it won't contact you to make money, doubt he will be there for you in any other case either.

Your next option is QA1, I've heard thier Challenger suspension kits eliminate it also, thier advertising package even has me convinced to get it for my auto! But it's expensive too...and about the other brands fight, I can tell you first hand Mustangs fight it tooth and nail after a certain power level..don't know about Camaro, but I have a 2010 SS we are going to start playing with next year, I'll find out, but I imagine I'll be there too. 

At your power level, and considering your issues in the past, I'd recommend checking out the QA1 package and consider biting the proverbial financial bullet. Check it out and let me know what you do actually think about it.

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8 hours ago, us1champ said:

I went to qa1 site I don’t see anything for our cars other than hellcat driveshafts


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My bad, I actually called them ( QA1) and they told me they were still working on it, it's the Eibach pro kit I was thinking of. From what I've read it eliminates the hop to a minimum, even the "street" version. There is also Hotchkis kits available too, but I haven't read up on what they offer in the kits, I know they (Hotchkis) made a name for themselves back in the day especially in the import scene and at one time they were the go too if you owned a FoxBody Mustang. 

I would think wider tires/rims would help out a lot with the issue too? I do have a question, why does this plaque the 6 speed so much more than the auto? Same suspension, only difference is driveline...

I actually called the companies direct to see what they had to say about the kits, prob more sales than real info, but the person I spoke with told me it would eliminate wheel hop dramatically...which from what's offered in the kit I could see it really helping.

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Mikahs thing is 4 steel plates cut to be the same size as the O.D of the bottoms side of the rubber bushings. You cut off the face of the bushings with a razor blade and bolt them up. He says it helps. I don’t quite get how thou ? You still have the top side rubber part of the bushing against the frame so what does essentially plating just the bottom do?

 

In essence it is a cheaper version of the hop not stage one. It looks like it does the same with the hop not kit only his comes with the steel cups that go over the whole section of bushing after you cut the face of the bushing off and bolt it on. And hop not wants like 200 bucks for it. I have a lathe and a mill I can make them myself for that lol.

 

 

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I thought mikah designed something for hop??


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Didn’t you have a hop not kit and sold it at one time? Did you put it on?


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