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Magnacharger Install On R/t

I figure I'd start moving my stuff here...






I've got a new crank bolt from the dealership. I won't be doing any write-ups of the install since there's an excellent one going on over at LXF, and the instructions are pretty clear. I will post up some gotchas.


Special thanks to Lisa @ Speedlogix for accommodating my last-minute shipping indecisions and changes.


For fellow canucks out there, taking into account currency conversion and duty, this is $8K (CAD) right to your door.




In case anyone (at Magnacharger) cares, here are some instruction addendums:


- the parts list was not present in my kit


- step 5 -- there are eight 7mm bolts, not seven


- for pinning the crank, instructions tell you to use the two provided dowels to keep the crank from turning. My kit didn't have them, so I cut some threaded bar stock I had and used a socket extension up against the stock tensioner bracket (not the wheel). You really want to have both hands on the wrench then working the crank bolt.



- again for pinning the crank, it's not obvious by the instructions that the drilling guide must be bolted with the protruding section towards the crank. I pinned from the top, which was very workable, using a small mirror as per the pic:




I also suggest placing a piece of cardboard or thin, rigid plastic in front of the radiator while pinning the crank, to avoid banging it up.


My kit didn't have the correct bolts for the TB. Perhaps for the 6.1 which uses an aluminum manifold. The bolts for the 5.7 are a very coarse thread for bolting into the composite intake.



Above is a bolt in the kit which threads in correctly (it's just too long). Below (green) is the stock bolt that threads into the composite manifold.



There is no need to splice the map sensor. Just peel more tape back and you've got plenty of wire. Thanks Brad. Doing this map sensor thing before putting on the head unit would make the job soooo much easier. Current instructions tell us to do it after.


The recess for the throttle body gasket is definitely too deep. I'll think of something, even if it is a vacuum cleaner belt wink.gif


Not much to it ... follow the instructions, take your time.



Here's a snapshot of a 3rd gear boot. As you can see, the tune leaves a lot of power on the table in favour for safety. Ain't no one gonna blow a motor with this I think.



... and this AFR is without cats lol


Here is cats (solid) vs. catless in 3rd gear: 2010-09-28catsvsnocatssc3rdgoodcomp.jpg


I make a smidge more power with the cats on. AFR didn't really change much.

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I fabbed up a "CAI" for my Maggie using the Stack Bullet I had. It has a honking filter, but I was unable to use most of the plastic tube that goes behind the fog lamp. For now it kinda looks like Speedy's Mopar CAI with a bigger filter and a plastic 45* elbow.


What a difference this made.





This is a "before & after" TT Dyno, same road, same gear (3rd):



Granted, it is cooler tonight than it was on the other pull, but TT Dyno takes all that into account. +36hp, +24tq. Boost was up to 7psi and AFR was up to a more reasonable 10.6 to 11.6 in the upper range. Actual Spark Cyl 1 is 16* from 5190rpm to redline.


I did a pull in 4th gear just for kicks: 480-462Oct92010.jpg




One thing I found interesting in the log is the actual delay in closing the bypass valve when you floor it. Starting line MAP is 14.6psi, which is full throttle NA. 220 ms later, bypass is starting to close, with MAP at 15.3 (.5 lb of boost). 110 ms later (not shown) I'm at 17.3 (~3 psi) and 110ms later I'm just about full boost. So it takes close to 1/2 second from the time you nail it for full boost.


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I did it myself in my garage last year. Took 13 hours working 2-3 hours here and there in the evenings.


The only help I had was to sit the heavy blower & tub assembly onto the heads. That and a couple of heads' up from B KIRK

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