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BayouTiger

Etc Control Circuit Failures

49 posts in this topic
Ok I fished the harness out of the valley and drove it around and got it good and hot. Sure enough any time I shut it down it would fault on restart. Unplug the connector and rep lug it in and would clear right up. Run it again for awhile and same result. Reseating the connector seems to clear it were time so I but the bullet and broke out the soldering iron and heat shrink. Cut the connectors of soldered the wires up heat shrunk everything together in a bundle and sealed it all up with liquid electrical tape. I guess we'll see what happens!

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Well, that wasn't it! Started and let it warm up fine, killed it and on restart got limp mode and ETC failure. I guess it's to the next thing on the list!

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you've swapped out the TB and wrung out the wires. There is a variable voltage sender at the accelerator pedal, doesn't seem like it would be heat sensitive but something changes between cold start cycle and warm run. Can you unbolt the TB and set it where you can see it from the driver seat put ignition in run no start and excersize it with the pedal see if it has some flakey point in the sender. Modern age technology doesn't break it limps

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We have actually swapped the TB previously. But I'll give the pedal a try. At least the problem is being more consistent and repeatable right now.

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Its like the ac units i deal with everyday you need a computer and a priest to fix them sometimes[img]http://www.kandle.ie/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Priest_laptop.jpg[/img]
Or a priest with a computer lol

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Been doing some reading, and Ford has had an issue with coil packs creating interference and causing this failure. Seems that cleaning the TB clears it on some Hemi's.

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Clearly in need of a catch can... :D

Several posts up you mentioned it dies when you hit clutch and/or off throttle. It's hunting for idle. Tricky six speed shit you and I spoke about once, Chuck. That's tune related but not the big fish you're hunting on the cold/warm cycle. I'm with Erik. Swap out the MAP sensor...not that big of a deal and relatively inexpensive. Next, I'd revisit the TB. Pull the intake and have lisa throttle while you're looking at it. Or, pull the tube intake and stick a pen camera you can pick up cheap in there and see what's going on. Didn't Valley do that once when I started that thread about timing dropping at shifts? It was pretty cool.

Good luck, bud. I feel for you two. I hate that crap and all the uncertainty electrical brings.

Oh, BTW, this is what you'll want to do with your Metco breather since it works and it's the path of least resistance under boost. My valve cover didn't lift and spritz under boost / nitrous this time so the Metco helped.

Introducing, the Breather Buddy....
[img]http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv357/cubasam/Venting/breatherbuddy.jpg[/img]


:D

HemiSam

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I never put the Metco on. The filler on the Techco is not in a good place for it. If I remember it was too high. We will be swapping the TB this afternoon. This does not seem to be a tune issue, but seems to be related to a self test on a device failing intermittently, as it happen only when cranking. Never just goes into limp mode when driving. I have noticed that my TB gets incredibly hot.

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Hopefully that takes care of it, Chuck. I though when you referred to the dead pedal that it was once the car was running. Hunting for idle if you will.

You any happier with the trans? I'll share some things I've learned about mine when we're tossing a few back at CF3. I finally tossed in some of that hard core oil Hanlon sent us. I went 1 to 3 with Mobil1 for the balance. It doesn't like going into second when it's cold and occasionally 3rd but once it's warm, I can beat the hell out of it and it's happy as a clam.

HemiSam

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I found three things, 1. Gotta warm up, then it's smooth as silk. 2. I gotta sit more up on the wheel, I've always been one of those 5'8 guys that sit all the way back in the back seat. I can pedal it a lot more reliably up close, wasn't an issue with the stock clutch as much as the Spec. 3. The Hard Drive handle is awesome. many times more precise feel for me than the stock grip.

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sounds like your closing in in the problem and just need a break on making it happen, never noticed the TB being hot but it's possibile norm, have you visually seen the TB's operate. jeez you'll get it

I'm with you, I crunch intoward the wheel a little extra when getting ready for the dance, insures complete clutch movement

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Well, at least it's gone from intermittent to consistent now. The list of things it's not is growing. Not the tune, throttle body, pedal sender, MAP sensor, harness extenders, or battery. Every voltage in the PCM looked good (same as stock). Got a new PCM on order I guess we'll know tomorrow. The problem did show up after a PCM swap to years ago, I little hard to see a computer being intermittent like that, but I guess anything's possible. Also hard to believe this would be the second PCM swap, though the first one just failed completely.

Definitely reminds me of my USAF days! We had some systems (classified Electronics Countermeasures Equipment) that only had limited ability for testing. Boards were sealed in epoxy and all numbers removed from components for secrecy. Only troubleshooting was board level swaps and trial and error.

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[i]^^^^^ I so know what your goinh through now Chuck and your into an area there's no help and sometimes it took a combination of replacement parts to make it happy again, you will win and you will celebrate bud. That scenario plays out so often now with CAN technology and SBC's with close tolerance levels so many peripherals many with low tech devices feed back in the circuit, good luck[/i]

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New PCM in and all looks well. I guess we'll see, but it fired up immediately when the new PCM was connected. Took it back out and reinstalled the old one and went right onto limp mode. Maybe that will dpi it. Maght also explain some of the little glitchy things I have had for over two years. ::fingers crossed::

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That's huge, Chuck. and a new PCM isn't crazy money. If this solves it, we gotta toast in BG!
[IMG]http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv357/cubasam/Funny%20Ha%20Ha/gifs/gif158.gif[/IMG]


As for positioning, absolutely. I don't dick around when it's race time like when I'm just rolling on the street. I look like a grandma...seat's up close and seat back damn near at a right angle. All bidness. My Spec clutch has been the shit. Sorry you haven't enjoyed yours as much. The trans has been my only problem and I figured a work around for the Mile since my first run (and the best of run of the day) is the morning run when the car's cold. I use my electronic trickery to help and then I've got to thank J for a smart recommendation as well. Who'd a thunk it that he might actually have something to add at a track given he drives like a grandma.... *ninja*

LMAO....

HemiSam

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The clutch is a lot better if I'm up on the wheel. Just not as forgiving as the stock and needs a little better timing to shift quick. The thick tranny fluid is a little catch 22: tranny needs some warmth to be butter smooth, but by the time the tranny is warm, the engine is going to be pretty hot.

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[quote name='BayouTiger' timestamp='1333595502' post='122711']
The clutch is a lot better if I'm up on the wheel. Just not as forgiving as the stock and needs a little better timing to shift quick. The thick tranny fluid is a little catch 22: tranny needs some warmth to be butter smooth, but by the time the tranny is warm, the engine is going to be pretty hot.
[/quote]

the manual trans once heated up will retain it through the days runs, throw in some cool down cycles for the motor and you in Tall Cotton Chuck

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Chuck,

Running a thinner fluid won't make the grind going into second when cold go away. Trust me... The trans simply prefers to be warm. We can visit and exchange views in the parking lot under, how shall I say, the appropriate conditions (read: a good buzz on) :D

HemiSam

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Glad to hear you finally got this worked out Chuck, intermittent electrical gremlins are the biggest PIA !

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