Welcome to Modern Mopar Forum

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

JDW RT 09

392 Stroker Self Install

991 posts in this topic

Look what arrived yesterday from Arrington: lol;)B)

4qhuY.jpg

KEO6V.jpg

anYyg.jpg

eexdq.jpg

Forged rotating assembly 6.1 to 392 Stroker block. My 2009 5.7 needed an upgrade after almost 4 years of stock w/ bolt ons and a tune and I wanted to start with a solid foundation.

Thanks to those here on mmf for providing input over the last few months about which direction to go.

Also, thanks to Justin at Arrington and shopHemi for walking me through what I wanted and making sure it fit my future plans down the road and getting my order shipped out on schedule as promised.

I plan to document the self install here on this thread over the next month, or so (It took 4 months)... I'm sure I will hit a snag or two and look forward to hearing any tips that might be helpful and would be greatly appreciated. Hopefully this thread might help others as well.

jdwrt09
James
Cedar Park, TX

Edited by jdwRT09

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like Christmas came early for you this year!

 

This will be an interesting thread to follow.

 

You gonna do the install Arrington style (from below) or old school (from above)?

 

Stevo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

This will be an interesting thread to follow.

 

You gonna do the install Arrington style (from below) or old school (from above)?

 

Stevo

 

Old school. I put my hoist together today and cleaned up the garage. Not sure what to do with my hood during this minor mod.

 

I just hope "interesting" doesn't mean like watching a race just to see if there is going to be a crash... :o :o :oB)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good stuff. You'll love the motor. I ran it with an Arrington 607 cam (had a blower) and it was a nice combination. That cam was discontinued (I gave them my old one since they supplied me a cam for the TT's) so what are you running for a cam and what CR?

 

Mike (GSO) and a few others here are good sources of info. We've got someone local you can lean on (LX or SCLX forums) who does this all day. oSo. He's good peeps. Just tell "J" I sent you and he'll offer some advice.

 

Best of luck with the install.

 

HS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good stuff. You'll love the motor. I ran it with an Arrington 607 cam (had a blower) and it was a nice combination. That cam was discontinued (I gave them my old one since they supplied me a cam for the TT's) so what are you running for a cam and what CR?

 

HS

 

I went with Arringtons ST-3A Forced Induction cam 225/234  592/594  114 LSA

 

Regarding the CR, For now I am keeping my existing stock eagle heads but installing Arringtons performance valve spring kit. I would have them big valved and reworked before a sc but for now Justin said they should work fine because of the smaller chamber and I think he said the CR should be around 10.3/4. We are also compensating for the smaller head chamber by using a thicker head gasket to increase chamber size just a bit.

 

(CR ended up being 10.11:1 or approx. 10:1)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Help, tools needed. I know you never get anything if you don't ask so I am asking. If anyone has either or both of these tools please consider lending them to me. I will gladly reimburse for shipping and insurance as well as throw some extra cash in the return package. PM me please.

 

1. Hemi valve spring compressor tool like this one from Superiorautomotive or Crane Cams that are supposed to make changing springs take minutes vs hours with much reduced frustration...

HYxF5.jpg

 

MVOQV.gif

 

2. Clutch alignment tool like this one:

$(KGrHqIOKiYE5NW!RlBeBOVnHLyv0Q~~48_35.JPG

http://www.ebay.com/...4ba2587&vxp=mtr

 

Any takers willing to be without them for a short while? :huh:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I went with Arringtons ST-3A Forced Induction cam .629" /.6307"

 

Regarding the CR, For now I am keeping my existing stock eagle heads but installing Arringtons performance valve spring kit. I would have them big valved and reworked before a sc but for now Justin said they should work fine because of the smaller chamber and I think he said the CR should be around 10.3/4. We are also compensating for the smaller head chamber by using a thicker head gasket to increase chamber size just a bit.

 

That's steep for the CR unless you have a different piston than I do. I still run Eagle heads. I'm thinking you'll be under 10.

 

Will be interesting to see what you think of the cam. Note the rocker arm stat they use for those figures. They use a slightly different one than most. The LSA is 114...interesting.

 

Good stuff. Best of luck and like I said, J can help you out if you need some input. He's just South of H-town, not far off from Royal Purple Raceway.

 

HS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's steep for the CR unless you have a different piston than I do. I still run Eagle heads. I'm thinking you'll be under 10.

 

Will be interesting to see what you think of the cam. Note the rocker arm stat they use for those figures. They use a slightly different one than most. The LSA is 114...interesting.

 

Good stuff. Best of luck and like I said, J can help you out if you need some input. He's just South of H-town, not far off from Royal Purple Raceway.

 

HS

 

I know Justin said 10 something was probable. As long as it is not too low or sluggish, I'll be happy. That was his main concern If I had gone to the big valve and ported heads now without doing the supercharger at the same time. I'm no expert here, I just defer to experts on such things and sure wouldn't doubt your knowledge Sam.

 

I trust Justin and Arrington wouldn't do me wrong and sell me something that wouldn't perform well.

 

Who is "J" again by the way ???? This J? :D

XDIai.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know Justin said 10 something was probable. As long as it is not too low or sluggish, I'll be happy. That was his main concern If I had gone to the big valve and ported heads now without doing the supercharger at the same time. I'm no expert here, I just defer to experts on such things and sure wouldn't doubt your knowledge Sam.

 

I trust Justin and Arrington wouldn't do me wrong and sell me something that wouldn't perform well.

 

Who is "J" again by the way ???? This J? :D

XDIai.jpg

 

That's funny. oSo on the LX forum or SpaceCity LX. That's his first initial.

 

Arrington will do you a good job. I'd beef up the springs so you can spin it higher and def a valve job. The blower will spin the motor fast and redline comes up on you like a sizeable woman.

 

 

:D

 

HS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's funny. oSo on the LX forum or SpaceCity LX. That's his first initial.

 

Arrington will do you a good job. I'd beef up the springs so you can spin it higher and def a valve job. The blower will spin the motor fast and redline comes up on you like a sizeable woman.

 

 

:D

 

HS

 

I got a the upgraded springs sitting in the garage to upgrade the heads for the cam. Regarding a valve job, are you talking about doing a big valve job and porting the eagle heads?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have a very reputable performance machine shop close by or ship them to Arrington and have them touch up the valve's & seats, let them install the springs so they can measure and make sure the installed spring heigth is correct. You donot want to skimp on this. I had Arrington do the same thing on mine, wanted to have them ported but just didn't have the money to spend at the time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am getting ready to start on the engine swap and reading through the cd service manual.

 

Quick question for anyone that might know. the section for engine removal it states that if you have a manual trans., you must completely remove the transmission to remove the engine,

 

Can anyone confirm this or can it be done without transmission removal?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now