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blackdeuce

2005 Magnum R / T For A 17 Year Old?

My son currently drives a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. It's a nice truck, but the gas mileage is terrible around town. It has a 318 motor and 142,000 miles.

 

At some point, we want to get something more practical for commuting to college, etc. He's a junior in high school.

 

We went to a dealership today to look at a different car that wasn't what we expected. While we were at the dealer, we spotted a 2005 Magnum R/T with 92,000 miles that was cherry. Leather interior, sunroof, upgraded stereo, etc. Excellent condition. Had a number of maintenance records, etc. Clean Carfax. It's priced under $9,000.

 

My son really likes it. I did, too. Real nice looking silver metallic.

 

What do you people think about this for a teenager? I'd like better gas mileage, but could probably live with 25 mpg if it would actually do that. I suspect that it would suck gas if my son doesn't keep his foot out of it. My Challeger got shitty gas mileage before the 3.92 rear end and supercharger, but I mostly rod around town with it.

 

Any thoughts or recommendations? On average, is a Magnum R/T going to be maintenace free for a while, or should we expect issues with this amount of mileage? I'm assuming that it's been well maintained.

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He treats his truck well. I suspect he's taken it off road a little just for kicks.

 

The truck is slow enough that there isn't much temptation to hot rod. I suspect that the R/T Magnum would be more tempting.

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I would trust my 17-year-old in a Magnum without a doubt. He has a good head on his shoulders and also knows that he is on the hook for damage/repairs. It also helps that he bought his car with his own money. So far so good... two years under his belt with no issues.

 

Just about any car on the road these days is capable of doing well over 100 MPH. The Magnum is just going to get there a little quicker than some of the others. On the plus side, they are VERY safe cars. Lots of stories of people wadding them them up (not their fault) and walking away unharmed.

 

As for assuming it's been well taken care of... you know what they say about the word assume. The only assumption I would make is that it will cost you $1000-$1500 the first year just like any other used car. Brakes, tune up (the older 5.7s need plugs every 30k miles), fluid changes (coolant and ATF should be changed if not done already), suspension rattles, etc. Have an independent shop in the area do a pre-purchase inspection to minimize surprises.

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sounds like he'd do well with the magnum, feel lucky, my folks had some great cars during my early driving years and always V8's and yes I made a couple passes at the strip, but they are the reason I always had 2 doors and some rumble under the hood when I was buying my own, although Dad paid half on my first own car 68 RR

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got my son a Ram 1500 5.7L when he was in HS, he liked it alot, still has it 7 yrs later, his girls are the ones that showed up in the SUV's, scary times glad the trained pulled out on time and or some parents with heads up thinking, I know I had to deal with that angle too

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Will he be safe? Depends totally on the kid. Will he speed? Yep. Will he get 25 mph? No way in hell. 12-14 in town, 18-20 on the highway. IF he is lucky. 17 year olds do not get good mileage. I let mine drive my Challenger, and the Prowler whenever he wants. (basically). Along with my Ram 3500 Cummins 4x4 dually. He consistantly get 5-6 mpg less than I do. It's in their nature. I got lousy mileage when I was a kid, and so will he. If he is going to be buying his own gas, get him a 3.5 Magnum, or even better, an SRT4. He'll love the SRT4, get 18-20 in town and 25ish on the highway...no matter how hard he pushes it.

 

JMHO

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Thanks for the replies.

 

We drove the car this afternoon and it looks nice and runs nice, but I noticed that the suspension seemed bouncy and there was a noticible knock when going over bumps. I questioned the salesman and the salesman was told by another guy that "a few days ago our tech guy noticed that it needed a control arm and tie rod(s)". From I've learned, that would not make the car bouncy. I think the car need new struts. If the control arm is also bad, it sounds like a big repair bill. They are selling the car "as is, no warranty", but advertise that they would not sell these cars with known issues. Sounds like bullshit to me. I really doubt that they just now discovered the issue. They've had the car for 6 months.

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Thanks for the replies.

 

We drove the car this afternoon and it looks nice and runs nice, but I noticed that the suspension seemed bouncy and there was a noticible knock when going over bumps. I questioned the salesman and the salesman was told by another guy that "a few days ago our tech guy noticed that it needed a control arm and tie rod(s)". From I've learned, that would not make the car bouncy. I think the car need new struts. If the control arms is also bad, it sounds like a big repair bill. They are selling the car "as is, no warranty", but advertise that they would not sell these cars with known issues. Sounds like bullshit to me. I really doubt that they just now dicovered the issue. They've had the car for 6 months.

The struts are bad

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Struts are cheap. The knocking sounds like a tension strut or a ti rod end. Front ends in these cars are not expensive at all.......which is one of the reasons they don't last either.

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Struts are cheap. The knocking sounds like a tension strut or a ti rod end. Front ends in these cars are not expensive at all.......which is one of the reasons they don't last either.

 

What would make a control arm go bad? HItting a curb, etc.?

 

I have the local shop pricing 4 new struts and new control arms. The dealership said that they would knock $400 off the car, but that won't come close to covering the cost. The car dealership thinks it will cost $800 and they offered to pay half of the repair cost.

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In NY dealers have to warranty a car for 30 days unless it has more then 100k. ( or something close to that) Tell them to fix it and you'll buy it or make them discount the FULL amount. Otherwise walk away I'm sure there are other similar cars out there.

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What would make a control arm go bad? HItting a curb, etc.?

 

I have the local shop pricing 4 new struts and new control arms. The dealership said that they would knock $400 off the car, but that won't come close to covering the cost. The car dealership thinks it will cost $800 and they offered to pay half of the repair cost.

Have not seen a control arm go bad. An upper control has a non serviceable ball joint which means it needs to be replaced but uppers don't generally clunk. Your source of a clunk is most likely a bad tie rod end,tension strut,lower ball joint and in that order. 9 times out of ten it's just a $40 tie rod end followed by the tension strut. Easy to tell if you jack the front up and wiggle the wheel left to right.....you will feel play if its the tie rod .

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