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  1. Last week
  2. Been there, done that. I'll give you my 2 cents worth FWIW. On a pretty much stock 5.7 (mainly stock rotating assembly), the stock 5.7 heads are more than adequate for the displacement of the engine. Hot Rod Network did dyno tests on a pretty much stock (headers and cam) 5.7 using stock heads and ported/polished heads and the gain was only 12 horsepower. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hemi-head-test-mild-and-wild/ I've ported/polished and milled .030 in. off the heads on both of my 5.7's and, if I've gained 25 hp., I say I did good. Milling the heads (raises the compression ratio by about a half point) were maybe worth 10-15 hp. and the port/polish was worth about 12 or so hp. You'll see, in the article, that if you increase the engine displacement, the gains will be much more substantial. The same would be true if you kept the stock displacement and went with properly set up forced induction and/or nitrous oxide injection,.Then bigger heads will help. As far as cams go, I would caution you to NOT go with a "large" cam with your stock displacement, pretty much for the same reason. If you go too big, a couple things will happen. First, your bottom end RPM power will be significantly reduced because almost all performance cams sacrifice the low end, in favor of improving the mid and top end RPM ranges. Second, your idle and driveability will be adversely affected, depending on how radical you go. I have advanced FRI Sidewinder cams in both of my 5.7's and, IMO, they are about as radical you'd want to go without having driveability issues for a daily driver. Regarding running nitrous on a stock rotating assembly, you probably wouldn't want to go more than a 75-100 shot, or you'd be at risk of gernading the engine. IMO, this is a good "on call" mod when coupled with a well selected cam, a good tune, headers/cat. back and the transmission set up properly. If you're into drag racing, a 75-100 shot can take about a full second off your elapsed time. One last thing......I would NEVER recommend Total Engine Airflow (TEA) for porting/polishing heads after the experience I had with them. I sent my pristine heads to them and four, yes four months later I received a different set of heads that had obviously been worked on before and were not near as nice as the ones I sent them. They claimed their CNC machine programming screwed mine up. I will say that the port and polish job was very nice though but, I'll never know what really happened to my heads. On my other 5.7, I found a shop locally that ported and polished them. That way I was able to keep an eye on them and what was being done to them.....a completely better experience.
  3. We all remember this gem: https://www.facebook.com/HHPRacing/posts/4269838893028497
  4. Earlier
  5. Can't do much with the NAG1, so the easiest thing to do is install a taller gear. The 5.7's came with a 2.82 in lieu of the 3.06 gear that's in your SRT8. It's a pretty easy swap. With the 2.82 gear, your cruise RPM will be about 1800 RPM. I have two early LX's, an 05 5.7 Magnum and an 06 6.1 300C SRT8 like yours, but both with performance cams in them. I am not sure why you want to lose a few hundred RPM though? If you have the stock cam in your 6.1, it is a mid/top end RPM range cam and you'd probably end up losing a little fuel economy. To improve fuel economy, you need to have a good tune and bring the RPM to a range that is as close to the power band as possible. I ended up installing a Getrag 3.06 LSD in my 5.7 and, along with the cam, MDS and other mods. I usually get 27-29 mpg on the highway and 15-17 mpg in town, and the 6.1 with the cam and custom engine/transmission tunes usually gets 23-25 mpg on the highway and 13-15 mpg around town. When the stock cam is compared to the performance cam in my 6.1, the biggest difference in the timing between the two is the Lobe Separation Angle (LSA). With a higher LSA, the power band is raised to a higher RPM, and vice versa. The stock 6.1 cam has an LSA of 117* and the aftermarket cam in nine has an LSA of 113* so mine performs substantially better at lower RPM than when it was stock and not quite as good at higher RPM.....where i't seldom driven.
  6. Happy 4/26, IT'S HEMI DAY! To celebrate we're offering instant rebates on tons of products on our web store! Just be sure to use coupon code HEMI at the checkout screen on HHPRacing.com ! *Some exclusions apply, rebates only eligible on newly placed orders*
  7. I will definitely give them a call with the serial number. My original thought was the amount of oil that leaks couldn't be going through the blower but maybe. Doesn't hurt to check
  8. As long as you have the blower off - I would call KB, give them the serial number, and ask them about. If it needs their fix, I would have them do it. I would hate to see you put it all back together and find that you still have the same problem.
  9. This is good info thank you. I bought the blower used so it very well could be from that era. I never thought about the back of the blower. I did pull it off and ordered a new blower seal and cometic intake gaskets from mmx. I haven't pull the intake manifold off yet so I'll see what everything looks like. I'm not using the KB catch can, its a UPR which is similar to the usual Billet tech style and I am going to put new hose on it. Still can't decide on running a PCV or not. I originally planned based on the Arrington CCV article.
  10. Ps. "Second is off the oil fill port to a catch can and down to the intake tube after the filter." I also installed another can there. I've never had any oil in that one. Rick
  11. The early KB's did this. Mine does it. They fixed the issue after they learned about it. Mine leaks out the supercharger, at the rear, where the intake plenum mates with the rear of the blower. Mine leaks the PVC system recirculated engine oil. If you still had it together . . . you could put a paper towel between the blower and the intake manifold and see if the oil appears there. When I called KB about it years ago they said they reworked that area and now use a better mating surface and o-ring. They said if I sent them my blower they would machine mine for the new surface and o-ring for free. I have just lived with it. I put a paper towel there when I park it and the manifold stays dry. I bought my KB in 2011. If yours is from about that time frame, that may be your issue. If you have the original KB oil separator from that era - it is useless! I did a bunch of measuring and it is completely useless. I added a 2nd Arrington can (first generation) in-line with the KB and it helped somewhat. Then, KB made a newer one and I bought it. I kept the Arrington in-line. The new KB slowed the PCV oil recycling down a lot! I still get PCV oil in my can (and engine), but much, much, much less. The PCV valve adds a good amount of airflow restriction to that PCV system. Restriction = less airflow = less oil vapor making its way back into your manifold. I've always run the PCV valve. Many on here have completely removed the PCV system's return to any port on the engine. I chose not to do that.
  12. This has probably been discussed before but I figured I would see if anyone has any insight. I have had a nagging oil leak on my 6.1 the past couple of years and honestly I originally thought it was the rear seal so I was just living with it. I dont drive the car a ton so it's been more of just an annoying thing. Finally got some time to look at it this weekend and found the valley under the blower manifold was full of oil. My assumption is the manifold gasket is leaking so I started taking it all apart. I seem to remember this being somewhat common but would appreciate any insight. Any recommendations on better gaskets or install methods to help? Also I run a two catch can setup. First one is off the blower manifold port to a catch can and then to the spot behind the throttle body. Second is off the oil fill port to a catch can and down to the intake tube after the filter. I did find that the hoses I used off the blower manifold port were very flimsy and could have definitely been collapsing. Would that cause the gasket to fail? I don't run a PCV, should I be with this setup? It does smoke a bit on startup, probably from oil getting past the gasket and will puff a little at throttle hit. Thanks for the help, I want to get this figured out once and for all.
  13. NEW Nag1 pro torque stall converter 2600-2800 pro drive series custom from hemituner 950$ shipped dont need core
  14. Lucky you, started at 189000 miles. I'm up to 104000 miles and vibration is there sporadically, light but annoying nonetheless.
  15. Give High Horse Performance sales a call 18888941115 HHP is very experienced Hemi Performance company and also with F1 A Procharger builds. They carry a huge stock of parts. Linda
  16. Did you know, your favorite Gen 3 Hemi shop keeps more stimulus friendly performance parts IN STOCK for your Gen 3 Hemi build than any other dealer? This way you can have your parts now instead of waiting until summer! Have any questions about getting the right parts for your Gen 3 Hemi build, or want to verify the part you're looking for is in stock? Contact us! 888-894-1115 or email sales@highhorseperformance.com Through the month of March, we are also offering a FREE #PoweredByHHP t-shirt for all orders over $1,400! There's no coupon code required, just click the link at the checkout screen to add the shirt to your cart at no additional cost! www.HHPRacing.com
  17. Hey everyone! i just joined you all to try and get to the bottom of an issue i ran into and i cant seem to figure out what to do and nobody around here has a clue i guess.. I broke my crank shaft in my 2015 dodge charger 5.7 and when we tore the engine down i bought another stock crank from Oreillys and took my other one back for a core exchange. what they didnt tell me is that the new one did not come with the reluctor wheel. We didn't find this out until we went to bolt the transmission up and noticed it was missing. We had a guy bring over a reluctor wheel and its a 4 bolt but the crank shaft is a 3 bolt? So we immediately assumed it was the wrong crankshaft so we tore the engine back down and i took the crankshaft back.. Let me back up just a bit... we had to get the crank shaft from oreillys machined because my forged rod and main bearings wouldn't fit, they were too tight so i would up getting new rod and main bearings that were thinner ID on top of getting the crank polished so they would fit right. I should have known something wasn't right at that time but i wasn't thinking. i ordered another crankshaft off of ebay and the post said ( 2015 dodge charger 5.7 police cruiser ) got the crankshaft here and opened it and its the same 3 bolt that i got from oreillys? i don't know what is going on and i never even looked at my crank to see what the heck i had before. The mods that are done to my car is ( F-1a Procharger, Forged internals, mild cam, huge fuel pump, high-rise intake, headers ) i don't know the specific parts numbers and such but i know the crank was factory by the stamp on it ending in AA. I cant afford to buy another crankshaft that is not going to work. I was going to go forged but they don't make one for the 5.7 unless i stoke it or find a way to put a 6.1 crank in it. Please correct me if im wrong! This is my first mopar and i love it! i just wish i could find the correct crankshaft!! Please, any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  18. This a NIB defuser. My SIL wanted one for his Scat and I was able to find a deal for 2 So, now I have 1 to sell. Pick up - Jarrell, TX Shipping - Buyer pays
  19. Racers!!! Heads up, we will be looking to capture your car in action racing in the Modern Street HEMI Shootout ... The 2021 MSHS promo video will be filmed at the Legmaker Intakes Orlando MSHS Sunday March 28th and additionally, Mopar Action Magazine will be on site for even more coverage‼️ Do not miss this..... http://hemirace.com/races/2021-legmaker-intakes-orl-mshs/
  20. I only notice a vibration when I put the left rear window down for my dog. That's when the vibration started , feels like right rear wheel. Tire looks good. 2017 1500.
  21. Still have the Cats?
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