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Head Bolts


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14 replies to this topic

#1
srt5939

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Ok so if the torque specs are 25 then 40 and a 90* turn why the fuck don't they just tell you the torque spec of the 90* turn?

Pretty stupid if you ask me.

I used a real nice Snap On wrench with the vibrating beep on it. When I did the 90* turn the wrench was at 70lbs.

So 25 to 40 to 70 why don't they just say that?

And no 90* turn on the top 5 bolts, I mean really, WTF! How confusing do they have to make simple bolts?



Not to mention I used studs and not bolts. I just put them in till they bottom out and leave them loose, then on the 70 I could feel the stud turn


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#2
Houdini

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Shit...i know why you used the vibrating wrench John lol.


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#3
Shaggy SRT

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if you used ARP studs I'm pretty sure they need more torque then the stock head bolts. Here's the directions from ARP.

 

http://arpinstructio...ns/244-4300.pdf

 

 

Automotive Racing Products Tel: (805) 339-2200
1863 Eastman Avenue Fax: (805) 650-0742
Ventura, Ca 93003 www.arp-bolts.com
INSTALLATION METHOD FOR HEAD STUD KITS
Part Number: 244-4300 Application: Chrysler 5.7L/6.1L Hemi
1. Always verify the part number for your application with the part number on the side of box and the part
number on the instruction sheet. This will help ensure you have the correct installation procedure for
your specific application before installing any components.
2. Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit,
length and dimension.
3. To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean ALL threads in the block. Chase if
necessary with ARP Thread Chaser, part number 912-0007 (M12 X 1.5).
4. If the cylinder head studs protrude into a water jacket, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP THREAD
SEALER.
5. Screw studs into the block “HAND TIGHT ONLY”.
NOTE: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE STUDS IS PREFERRED. THE
FASTENERS, HOWEVER, MUST BE TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCTITE SETTING UP.
6. Install the cylinder head(s) and check for binding or misalignment.
7. Lubricate the stud threads, nuts and washers with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
Then install the washers and the nuts onto the studs and tighten them hand tight. ARP recommends using the
ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT that is provided with each kit as opposed to
motor oil. This is due to higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of
the fasteners when motor oil or other low quality lubricants are used.
PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS
8. Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the nuts in three equal steps to the
following specifications with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
M12 studs (1-10) 105 ft lbs M8 studs (11-15) 25 ft lbs
Note: ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant has been specifically designed to reduce tension preload scatter and
eliminate the need to cycle high performance engine fasteners before final installation. ARP Ultra-Torque far surpasses all
requirements offered by previous ARP lubricants in terms of fastener preload repeatability and performance lubricating
properties. For more information on ARP Ultra-Torque visit our website at www.arp-bolts.com or call 1 800-826-3045.
Bolt Torque Sequence
3/7/11

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#4
sloan1

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I always wondered that myself. It should be the same Tq each time you turn it the 90* past the last Tq # you use. Maybe someone can shed some light on this question.
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#5
themush

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haha. Doing mine over the weekend, i wondered the same thing..


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#6
ironchallenger

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are they not TQ to yield ?" 


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#7
sloan1

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Yeah I thought it maybe its for proper bolt stretch vs a Tq #. But I have been known to be wrong in the past.
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#8
srt5939

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105lbs holy shit that alot



that's 65lbs more than a bolt. Why so much?



well + a 90* turn what ever the fuck that really is


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#9
Boatman

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Stop fucking your shit up and you wouldn't have to worry about it. lol


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#10
srt5939

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Stop fucking your shit up and you wouldn't have to worry about it. lol

lol, I do the best I can. I'm good with that.


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#11
Boatman

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lol, I do the best I can. I'm good with that.

 

We all fuck up, I'm just lucky that none of mine has caused a bunch of damage.


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#12
Andy@PWR

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Stock bolt should be closer to 90# once you finish the sequence. They do 90* instead of ft/lbs because * is more accurate way of measuring stretch.
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#13
srt5939

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Aww ok well that makes sence I guess
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8.92 at 154mph
 
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#14
Guest_Daparrothead_*

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I ran into the torque by degree method back in the early 80's when I use to work on Deutz air cooler diesels for a living. They have 4 long bolts that hold the head and cylinder to the block. They torque to 25 newton meters, 30*,30*,30* then 40 NM if memory serves me correctly. I bought a snap On head stud degree wheel just for working on these motors. A lot of over sea's built engines have used the degree method for a long time.  


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#15
BuckeyeGuy

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Harley head bolts (actually studs and nuts are also torque to yield, and it basically works out to 70 ft lbs but have been using the 90* recommended method for years and have never had an issue in the many high hp engines I have built.  Still just seems odd every time I do it.  Seemed strange also when doing it with the last 6.1 I did with Jon.  But, it works!


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