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Running Stock Valve Springs To Get Me Home


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25 replies to this topic

#1
Chally

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So I'll be having this new cam put in soon, but i think I'll have to wait on the springs for a few weeks, especially if I have to pull the heads. I don't plan on beating on the car once the cam is swapped, but need to get the thing home. Would I be good to drive 5 miles back to my house on stock springs? Valve lift is 562/568. My installer is only going to have time to do the swap in the next week and is only doing the cam, I'll have to do the springs later.
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NOW YOU'VE GOT SOMETHING TO DIE FOR.

6972ba53-cb3c-4587-917e-9de9d3ab74e3_zps

 

 

 


#2
Pacman88

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pry completely pointless info here but im running the srtmax on stock springs and beat the shit out of it for 52000 miles and it hasn't tapped out yet. like I drive it like you would screw Jessica alba after 5 red bulls and a line of cocain...


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"I think i may be emotionally constipated...i haven't given a shit in days"

 

2007 Charger SRT8, diablatooner tune, SRT MAX cam, PI-2800 stall, JBA Longtubes w/catless mids, flowmaster 10 series, blue tops, cai -154kmiles and still rollin

 

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#3
Chally

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pry completely pointless info here but im running the srtmax on stock springs and beat the shit out of it for 52000 miles and it hasn't tapped out yet. like I drive it like you would screw Jessica alba after 5 red bulls and a line of cocain...

lol hell ya... i drive mine like that too most of the time. Sometimes I'll spray the bitch on on-ramps just for shits. lol
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NOW YOU'VE GOT SOMETHING TO DIE FOR.

6972ba53-cb3c-4587-917e-9de9d3ab74e3_zps

 

 

 


#4
Hemi31

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What cam is it. Theres more to it than just lift, and different manufacturers use different baselines to determine lift. So .560 from one may be ..580 from another even though the cam card says they are both the same valve lift.
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BFNY Performance

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#5
Andy@PWR

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Whether you drive it hard or not isnt going to matter. 560 lift is 560 lift no matter how much gas you are giving it. The spring gets compressed the same amount regardless of pedal position. Why install the cam if you cant enjoy it. I would wait and install all together.
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#6
Chally

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It's the cam bayou tiger listed in this thread. (Sorry, cant get the photobucket link to copy on my phone)

http://modernmoparfo...e/?fromsearch=1

I'm going to do the springs later because the car probably will not be driven again until next year (salt... ick) so there is no rush, that and if the heads need to come off I'll need to save up some money. I just want to make sure I get the cam installed before years end, call it my xmas present to myself lol.

I pm'd Mike about this after I made this thread and he said it would be alright, but hey, I guess a second oppinion never hurt!
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NOW YOU'VE GOT SOMETHING TO DIE FOR.

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#7
Andy@PWR

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You "should" be fine
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#8
dodgetime

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boy I love this forum, it's like having Dr Oz tell you it's ok after you woke up with a strange bint and a soggy member


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#9
ostmike

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I would agree - why not do the cam and springs together?


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#10
Hemi31

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You "should" be fine

is there enough retainer to seal clearance with that lift?
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BFNY Performance

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"Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how much of the wall you take with you."

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#11
Andy@PWR

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Depends on what he is using for rocker ratio to calculate valve lift.
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#12
Dookie

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Get this-----> http://www.cranecams..._detail&p=25310

 

and you won't have to remove the heads. Pull one plug per cylinder and screw in a compression tester in the open plug threads and hook it up to air...set regulator at 100+ PSI. Works great. 


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"I drive it like you would screw Jessica alba after 5 red bulls and a line of cocain..."

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#13
Andy@PWR

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You can also being the piston to TDC to prevent the valve from dropping too far
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#14
Chally

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Get this-----> http://www.cranecams..._detail&p=25310

and you won't have to remove the heads. Pull one plug per cylinder and screw in a compression tester in the open plug threads and hook it up to air...set regulator at 100+ PSI. Works great.


Hemi31 was highly suggesting removing the heads... even with that tool
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NOW YOU'VE GOT SOMETHING TO DIE FOR.

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#15
Hemi31

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No I was highly suggesting you pull the heads to do the cam AND springs. It takes much less time and is much safer with someone doing the install that is not familiar with these motors.


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BFNY Performance

9515 Detroit Rd

Cleveland Oh 44102

440-787-7235

[email protected]
"Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how much of the wall you take with you."

Under Construction 66' Charger Pro Street. 426 GenIII Hemi
727,Dana 60
Chargersig.jpg


#16
deef1999

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If you're putting the car away anyway, just wait and do it right.


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#17
ironchallenger

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#18
Chally

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No I was highly suggesting you pull the heads to do the cam AND springs. It takes much less time and is much safer with someone doing the install that is not familiar with these motors.

Ah... gotcha, that clears things up. I'll have em done at the same time then.
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NOW YOU'VE GOT SOMETHING TO DIE FOR.

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#19
Permanent Resident

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^^^ So is this cam going in a n/a motor or boosted ? 


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#20
Chally

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^^^ So is this cam going in a n/a motor or boosted ?

A nitrous motor for now, and eventually boost.
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NOW YOU'VE GOT SOMETHING TO DIE FOR.

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