28 replies to this topic

[Dodgefan10]

On this subject line, it lists the power output of the 5.7 at 340 hp, 390 tq. This is for older model years right? My 2010 was factory rated at 372 hp, 401 tq. (auto trans) The 6 speed was a little higher....376 hp, 410 tq if memory serves me correctly. Just got mine off the dyno and currently showing 342 hp, 378 tq at the wheels with new tune! Thinking about headers and high flow cats....Anybody run these on a daily driver and, have any problems with them? Thanks for your input..

[toofart]

340hp was for the pre-2009 models. 342 @ the wheels is good. Headers and high-flow cats will wake up your car -- I got +18hp from shorty headers and no cats.

[Dodgefan10]

Thanks much toofart. Did the headers help torque as well? Also, do you or anyone out there know if Dodge will void my warranty for removing the factory cats? Would rather have high flow cats and new mids...(I only have 7500 miles on the car, don't want to void the warranty just in case...)

[REDDOG]

I don't have headers and just a tune Airaid CAI, Corsa cat back and put down 351HP and 385TQ with a Auto trans. I was running the 93 Oct. caned tune on the dyno at Stack Perfonmance.

[Dodgefan10]

REDDOG,

Excellent numbers! Johan is checking my data logs now, maybe he'll find a few more hp and ft lbs for me....if I'm lucky... Have Corsa Sport cat back, K&N drop in, catch can, full synthetic everything in mine... Will post up if progress is made... How many miles on your vagina?

[LUV MY RT]

The headers and the high flow cats will help a lot on the top end. Thats where I noticed the most improvement on them.

I thank removing the factory converters would void your warranty if you had to go back to dealer for engine work.

[toofart]

Thanks much toofart. Did the headers help torque as well? Also, do you or anyone out there know if Dodge will void my warranty for removing the factory cats? Would rather have high flow cats and new mids...(I only have 7500 miles on the car, don't want to void the warranty just in case...)

Headers (and high-flow/catless mids) will give you gains across the entire range. 332 peak hp before, 350 after (dotted line)

[Hemi31]

Since you guys are throwing dyno numbers all over the place I thought I would just mention that a lone pull is worthless without a base pull on the same machine. All dynos are different and you cannot compare one to another. If you have a base pull from the same machine then you can see the gains.

[Sarlacc]

Here is my original pull on the dyno...this was January almost one year ago.

The ONLY thing done to my car at this time were flowmaster mufflers/resonator delete. Which I dont believe did anything performance-wise.



Hopefully, in a week or two I will have a new dyno to post...and we will see what all the added goodies have added to my base.

[toofart]

Since you guys are throwing dyno numbers all over the place I thought I would just mention that a lone pull is worthless without a base pull on the same machine. All dynos are different and you cannot compare one to another. If you have a base pull from the same machine then you can see the gains.

That's what I like about TT Dyno. On the same stretch of road, on any day/night, if I enter the weather params correctly, I always get the same curve. Makes it real easy to see which mods work, and where.

Since you guys are throwing dyno numbers all over the place

I take offense to that statement, actually. I am very thorough, and I know enough about cars, computers, engine tuning and datalogging that when I "throw dyno numbers around" you can be sure as hell I tested to make sure they're accurate.

[Dodgefan10]

Headers (and high-flow/catless mids) will give you gains across the entire range. 332 peak hp before, 350 after (dotted line)

Thanks much TF, many people I have spoken with pray to the false gods of "peak hp and tq", it is the area under the curve that counts. If you "only" gain 10 hp and 10 tq, that's fantastic! (as long as it's across the entire curve...!) Any brand of headers and high flow cats/mids better than the others?

[toofart]

The Long Tube headers obviously provide the most benefit. I just couldn't stomach the price, and with the stupidness of the 5.7 iron logs, anything is an improvement.

I'm happy with the JBA shorties. I also have the JBA catless mids, and I can swap them with the stock catted mids in about 45 minutes. SRT manifolds will bolt right up, but you'd also need the midpipes as well.

[Speedy]

The Long Tube headers obviously provide the most benefit. I just couldn't stomach the price, and with the stupidness of the 5.7 iron logs, anything is an improvement.

I'm happy with the JBA shorties. I also have the JBA catless mids, and I can swap them with the stock catted mids in about 45 minutes. SRT manifolds will bolt right up, but you'd also need the midpipes as well.

Didn't you test catless mids on the car and find they actually LOST power?

[toofart]

With the supercharger, the catless mids were a wash -- perhaps -1hp across the board. But in NA form, the catless mids scream.

[sharkcohen]

So what does Dodge rate the HP and torque on the 2009-2010 5.7L in the R/T? I could have swore it was 342/346 HP auto/manual when I bought my 2010 R/T, but now the dodge.com website in one place says 372/376 for the 2010, and I've found another area on the dodge.com website that says 357 HP for the 2010. So confused http://challengercli...tyle_emoticons/default/blink.gif

[toofart]

Shark, manufacturers quote horsepower/torque at the crankshaft. Since none of us wants to pull our motors just to dyno, we measure at the wheels. 331hp at the wheels is roughly 375-385 at the crankshaft.

The 09 is rated for 375hp at the crank... for most of us, we're seeing around 335 at the wheels.

[sharkcohen]

Hi toofart, yes my confusion is around various crank HP numbers I see or have seen on the Dodge site, and I could have swore the site said 342 HP when I bought back in October (not that I'm complaining!) Right now on the site I see in one spot it says 372, and in another it says 357.

On this page, Dodge says 372 HP:

http://www.dodge.com...ormance/engine/

But on this comparison page, click the 5.7L engine links, and it says 357 HP:

http://www.dodge.com...rCode=CUD201003

Edit: I get what you are saying now, the numbers listed on the forum link are WHP, not crank. Still confused about Dodge's crank numbers on their site, though

[toofart]

357 must be a typo.

[Dodgefan10]

The Long Tube headers obviously provide the most benefit. I just couldn't stomach the price, and with the stupidness of the 5.7 iron logs, anything is an improvement.

I'm happy with the JBA shorties. I also have the JBA catless mids, and I can swap them with the stock catted mids in about 45 minutes. SRT manifolds will bolt right up, but you'd also need the midpipes as well.

Thanks much TF. I was looking at the engine bay this afternoon and wondering, how the hell am I gonna' get the manifolds off and headers in without pulling the motor?!! No shit....looks like an ugly job..... http://challengercli...tyle_emoticons/default/blink.gif

The headers and the high flow cats will help a lot on the top end. Thats where I noticed the most improvement on them.

I thank removing the factory converters would void your warranty if you had to go back to dealer for engine work.

I believe you are correct RT, may just do the JBA shorty's for now.... Thanks for the info...

[toofart]

No shit....looks like an ugly job..... http://challengercli...tyle_emoticons/default/blink.gif

It ain't pretty, but certainly doable. Swivels, extensions, gear wrenches all combined will get the job done. I did it on my back with the car on stands, and my abs were like steel for a month!

Added bonus -- the JBAs are about 10 lbs lighter than the iron logs -- that's nice weight savings up front.