27 replies to this topic

[HemiSam]

We are changing out the slave cylinder and throwout bearing on my car. Anyone know the part number for the master cylinder in this thing?

Thanks.

HS

[Hemi57]

Try 05038118AB ... Hold on to your shorts $200 or so.

[nolimits76]

I didn't double check, but if you run across this again, hopefully our new downloads area will help you. I uploaded the parts catalogs for the 2008, 2009, 2010 and 2011 Challengers (LC).

http://modernmoparfo...-parts-catalog/

[HemiSam]

Thanks, Dale. I believe that's the slave cylinder.

76...we have a parts catalog. Just can't identify a part number for the part in the pictures. Was hoping someone here might could have some insight.

HS

[deef1999]

There is a guy on here that really knows his shit and is always willing to help. Shoot him a PM, I'm sure he knows exactly what you're looking for his name is HemiSam.......oh, uh, scratch that. Good luck Sam.

[HemiSam]

Thanks, Jim. Appreciate that.

HS

Jim might be right...haha. I think this is it.

http://www.moparpart...68084712AA.html


HS

[deef1999]

I told ya

[nolimits76]

I hear ya Sam. I haven't changed those parts, so I'm not 100% sure if it's right or not. I'm a visual guy so pictures help me bunches.

Here is a screen cap of the part number Hemi57 called out. Maybe you can verify if that looks like the right thing or not. The codes indicate it's for the V6, 5.7 and 6.1 and 6-speed transmissions, and it's part #6 in the diagram.

By the way, thanks for all the help you give others. Like Deef mentioned, I see you posting up help all the time to noobs like myself.

Attached Files

•  Master Cylinder.png   418.75KB   21 downloads

[HemiSam]

Thanks, 76. What this is telling us, if I'm not mistaken, is that the clutch and the brakes share the same reservoir. There's a slave cylinder and a throwout bearing and that's pretty much it aside from lines.

I'm wondering if I had partial engagement at some point given how the brand new, supposedly bad ass clutch, looks. It really looks like shit and my last one looked fairly clean aside from some bluing and some pitting after 7-8K miles of abuse flat foot shifting style. What a dip.

HS

[toofart]

Sammy, any thoughts on going mechanical for the clutch linkage?

[Hemi57]

I sent an email to Luke at Steve White motors and asked about a clutch master cyl. Of course they sent a reply wanting my vin #. Anyway the part for my 2010 R/T 6 sp is 68084712AA and it comes with a price of $62.50 plus S/H.

[HemiSam]

I'm not there yet, Denis. It's certainly an option given that the clutch looks like there was partial engagement...way too much heat for how little I drove it.

Thanks for the info, Dale. The more I look at the diagrams, it looks like the round, finned jobbie in this picture is a concentric actuator.

http://www.moparpart...assembly=878512

That's as close as we have to a master cylinder for the clutch.

With some luck I'll have this crap pinned down early next week and can schedule a hand off of the car. Way more testing than I hoped at the Mile but whatever. Won't be the first for me or a good friend of mine that beat the sound barrier

HS

[Hemi57]

Sam, did you notice that the part # I got is the same as the one in the description in the link.

[HemiSam]

Sam, did you notice that the part # I got is the same as the one in the description in the link.

Good catch, Dale.

HS

[Hemi31]

Sam #1 and #6 in the diagram.

[HemiSam]

Sam #1 and #6 in the diagram.

Thanks, Erik. I think that's what we got ordered based on my convo's.

Interestingly, we lost a 1/2" of travel with the SPEC vs the stocker due to changes in dimensions from the billet flywheel and the clutch itself. I'm going to ask SPEC if this new ST trim has the same dimensions as the SS trim I was running before. If it does, then that's a non-issue.

HS

[Hemi31]

Sam when you pull the transmission put a straightedge across the bell and measure to the face of the throw out bearing. Then use a straight edge across the clutch and measure to the mating surface of the block and to the fingers of the clutch. Subtract the distance from the clutch fingers from the distance to block and compare to the measurement you took from the bell to the bearing. If they are the same you are good to go.....if the distance from bell to bearing is greater you need to shim out the throw out bearing the difference.

[HemiSam]

Sam when you pull the transmission put a straightedge across the bell and measure to the face of the throw out bearing. Then use a straight edge across the clutch and measure to the mating surface of the block and to the fingers of the clutch. Subtract the distance from the clutch fingers from the distance to block and compare to the measurement you took from the bell to the bearing. If they are the same you are good to go.....if the distance from bell to bearing is greater you need to shim out the throw out bearing the difference.

Yep yep. Good stuff, Erik. Thanks, bud.

HS

[BayouTiger]

Rumor is hat Lakey has one laying around somewhere!