18 replies to this topic

[Sybil]

Well it's time, any tips? Also, any one switch out their radiator for an all aluminum?

[MAGFX]

I am just now installing an aluminum Joelvan radiator. It is thicker than my SRT8 one and is dual core. I think Stack, and Fluidyne have one, also.

[BBoyPersia]

not exactly sure what the problem is but i havnt heard anything good about the fluidyne stuff

[MAGFX]

I heard something about fitment of the fan, condenser, etc.   The Joelvan one needs a bit of massaging, also.  It has nice big tanks on the sides, but they limit the space for all of the lines that have to route beside it. The Stack one looks nice, but it is super expensive.

[Adanac Charger]

I have the Joelvan rad and like it.

 

As Jonn said above, it needs a bit of tweaking. Adjust the tabs to make sure the rad sits as far forward as possible.

[srt5939]

best way to do it is get someone else to do it for you

[dodgetime]

nah, as for coolant system flush,

 

with the cooling system cold and the radiator cap removed, there is a drain valve on the lower/passenger side of the radiator core, turn the knob 90 and pull it outward the contents of the radiator core will spill out the drain tube, this will get all but what little is in the block out, once it's done push in the plug and turn another 90, then disconnect the radiator hose at the neck by the water pump and refill with your mix of water/antifreeze till no more goes in and reconnect the hose.  Crank the car up watching for leaks and watching the temp guage that it goes up in a few minutes meaning water has displaced the air in the system, keep topping off the overflow bottle til it's filled to the MAX line and tighten the rad cap. 

 

If your temp guage does not go up in a few minutes, turn off the car and loosen the bleed plug slightly to allow air/water to exit.  Be ready to fill the overflow tank, with engine running again the level comes down then turn it off and retighten the bleed plug top it off at the tank, crank it up and watch things as before, sometimes squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses will coax/burp an air block out of the system if need be,

 

aint as bad as it sounds. main thing not to let it run with out fluids in the system very long at all, or you can let someone else do it for you

[Sybil]

I have the Joelvan rad and like it.

 

As Jonn said above, it needs a bit of tweaking. Adjust the tabs to make sure the rad sits as far forward as possible.

1)Where do I get one,

2)how much in price?

3)How do you get to the radiator?

 

4) Change thermostat? Or keep stock one?

 

Ps my husband will do it not me!! I don't have a FSM so I figured I would ask before he starts tearing crap apart!

 

 

He uses Evan's coolant and it never has to be replaced! Good stuff!

[Adanac Charger]

PM Joelvan on LXF.... I think it was $5xx about a year ago.

 

I use a Motorad 180* tstat.

[Sybil]

Thanks for the help!

[HemiSam]

I've been running the joelvan rad for a while, Sybil.  It's a bad ass but I honestly don't think you need it unless you're tracking the car. 

 

DT's advice is sound.  I'd replace the t-stat with a 180 degree Motorad (German made jobbie) and just be sure you have the pin facing at 12 o'clock.  The t-stat is only worth while if you use a tuner that allows you to play with the fan temps so they kick in a bit earlier. 

 

If you don't run too far up North, I'd displace some of the 50/50 mix with distilled water...it cools better.  Not all but as much as the hubby is comfortable with.

 

HS

[Sybil]

I've been running the joelvan rad for a while, Sybil.  It's a bad ass but I honestly don't think you need it unless you're tracking the car. 

 

DT's advice is sound.  I'd replace the t-stat with a 180 degree Motorad (German made jobbie) and just be sure you have the pin facing at 12 o'clock.  The t-stat is only worth while if you use a tuner that allows you to play with the fan temps so they kick in a bit earlier. 

 

If you don't run too far up North, I'd displace some of the 50/50 mix with distilled water...it cools better.  Not all but as much as the hubby is comfortable with.

 

HS

Factory rads fail at some point on just about every thing made these days. Since the Evan's coolant is $ 40.00 a gallon he wanted to replace the rad and coolant and be done with it. Evan's has no water so there is no corrosion. Once and done forever unless you have a hose failure or something. How hard is it it to remove the t-stat and rad?

[HemiSam]

T-stat's simple.  It's on the  passenger side where you see the upper rad hose go into the fascia on the block.  The rad's a bigger effort and you may want to take off the front clip to make it easier (that's not nearly as tough as it sounds).  That's not always required, but I prefer the access it provides and if you have a second pair of hands, you can do it in 15-20 minutes.

 

HS

[MAGFX]

Since you have an SRT, you have the  thickest and best cooling OEM radiator, compared to the other models.

[Sybil]

Since you have an SRT, you have the  thickest and best cooling OEM radiator, compared to the other models.

Does it have plastic on it or is it all metal?

 

Who sells the t-stat?

[Renfrick1]

Speedlogix. They sell all the best mods for our cars

[MAGFX]

Does it have plastic on it or is it all metal?

 

Who sells the t-stat?

It has an aluminum core with the plastic side tanks, but I don't think that should be a problem. I haven't heard of our radiators leaking unless it was in an accident or a jack slipped off  the front cradle.

 

I've seen custom aluminum radiators leak where the core tubes connect to the bulk heads.  Although, that was on an off-road truck.

[rdrdr90]

The older radiators (early mid 80's) has issues with the plastic tanks leaking where they were joined to the cores, however, I've had 6 since then and 4 of them went to at least 120k miles with zero issues of leakage.  Add in what my dad owns and you can double both numbers, and no issues on any of them.