Seafoam is best known as a gasoline stabilizer, Stevo. Think when you're leaving fuel in the lawn mower too long between uses or the snow blower, etc...
HS
Seafoam is best known as a gasoline stabilizer, Stevo. Think when you're leaving fuel in the lawn mower too long between uses or the snow blower, etc...
HS
Deep Creep is their WD40 type lubricant product SteveO. What you want for cleaning is this:
http://seafoamsales....sea-foam-spray/
That's the spray. They also have regular cans that are just liquid that you can pour in to the gas tank and crank case to clean injectors and engines. It's a great product.
http://seafoamsales....otor-treatment/
I originally wanted B12 Chemtool to spray on the lifter as it's potent stuff, but my local shop didn't have it in the spray can, only the regular liquid and I wanted something with some force behind it to spray in to the lifter.
My parts guy keeps valve cover gaskets in stock so I'm gonna swing by and grab one on the way home from work and put her back together tonight and see where we're at.
-Speedy
Orange Krush
Arrington Powered 2009 R/T 6 Speed Tuned by [email protected]
Seafoam is best known as a gasoline stabilizer, Stevo. Think when you're leaving fuel in the lawn mower too long between uses or the snow blower, etc...
HS
We've always used it as an intake cleaner. Fogs the neighborhood real good when pulled through the intake of a running motor ![]()
-Speedy
Orange Krush
Arrington Powered 2009 R/T 6 Speed Tuned by [email protected]
We've always used it as an intake cleaner. Fogs the neighborhood real good when pulled through the intake of a running motor
LMAO....didn't like those neighbors anyhoo.
Best of luck with the project, J. I'm hopin' you don't have to pull the blower and head but I wouldn't bet good money on it.
HS
Well, it's worth a shot. Sometimes I get lucky ![]()
-Speedy
Orange Krush
Arrington Powered 2009 R/T 6 Speed Tuned by [email protected]
Thanks for the info gents. I will pick some of that stuff up and throw in my garage cabinet. You never know when you will need this stuff.
C'mon Jay...pullin the Maggie is no biggie. I will race ya! Fifteen minutes I say! ![]()
Whatever happens... I hope all goes well for you!
Just in case you have to pull the head... will you replace the head bolts with new ones or do you use the old ones?
Stevo
11.55 @ 118.77 mph with a 1.61 60' June 14th 2014 London Motorsports Park


530 rwhp 458 trq
"Tooned by Mike @ OST"
My Maggie is harder than your SteveO. It's the two piece tub so I'll need a new rope gasket for that, new head gaskets, and new intake gaskets if I pull it. More of a PITA than I wanna do to be honest. Getting old I guess
. I can probably have the blower off in 45 minutes if I have to.
The heads use ARP head studs so those are re-usable, I'll just have to make sure to get some ARP Lube for them if I have to go that far. I just did this all back in February with that coolant issue that ended up being the collapsing lower rad hose remember ![]()
-Speedy
Orange Krush
Arrington Powered 2009 R/T 6 Speed Tuned by [email protected]
Dang... yeah I forgot...yours is the older model. I did not know you studded the block. Smart move.
So throwing this out there to anyone.
When re/re the head.... is it normal to re-use the old head bolts or replace with fresh new ones?
BTW Jay.... funny you should mention that lower rad spring. I just ordered two of them last week from CJ Pony Parts. Did you use one spring or combine the two? (Getting ready for a tear down next year... hence the question on the head bolts and lower rad springs)
Stevo
11.55 @ 118.77 mph with a 1.61 60' June 14th 2014 London Motorsports Park


530 rwhp 458 trq
"Tooned by Mike @ OST"
I'd try to go with ARP studs if you're going that far SteveO. They clamp MUCH tighter than the factory bolts and are certainly re-usable.
The manual doesn't dictate if the cylinder head bolts can be re-used or not, but it does say they are a torque then turn 90° deal when tightening and usually when you have bolts with that type of setting, it's a torque to yield bolt and should not be re-used. Check with HEMI31 for confirmation on that.
On the spring, I made my own out of some galvanized steel, but I think those that bought the Mustang spring went with two of them.
-Speedy
Orange Krush
Arrington Powered 2009 R/T 6 Speed Tuned by [email protected]
Yuuuupppp.... that's what I was thinking too.
Stevo
11.55 @ 118.77 mph with a 1.61 60' June 14th 2014 London Motorsports Park


530 rwhp 458 trq
"Tooned by Mike @ OST"
Nope, likely not the oil filter ![]()
Well, I put the car back together last night. LuvMyRT stopped by to drop off my slicks and jack from our last track outing and stuck around to give me a hand. Amazing how much easier a second set of hands makes things. I took the ties that held the wiring harnesses on the passenger side loose and he held them back out of the way which let the valve cover drop in place with ease. That's how I did it back in Feb as well and it makes it WAY easier. Even your wife could do it if needed to make getting the cover in and out much easier.
We fired the car up and I don't think it's ever been so quiet. Absolutely ZERO lifter noise. Greg even commented that mine sounded much quieter than his. We let it idle for about 5 or so minutes and slowly as the car warmed up it started ticking again. I had Greg listen real close around the exhaust manifold and around the head as I gently revved the engine to see if he could hear an exhaust leak or anything else. The odd thing is that above 1200 or so RPMs the noise goes away completely. It only ticks at idle, but it ticks LOUD.
I need to think on this one a bit. I'm tempted to try a heavier weight oil just to see what happens. Other than this annoying tick the engine runs perfectly smooth. I have very few issues with this car, but when I have one it sure is an odd one ![]()
I'm thinking it must be oil pressure related since at cold start the oil pressure is higher and when the RPMs are up, it's also higher, and under both scenarios the tick goes away completely.
Oh well, I knew cleaning the lifter was a long shot but it was a cheap and relatively easy first step. Oil change next.
-Speedy
Orange Krush
Arrington Powered 2009 R/T 6 Speed Tuned by [email protected]
Speedy, Thicker oil is not going to make a difference. The tolerances in a lifter body are extremely tight and any type of small particle of crap will partially block or possibly jam the lifter cup. Tic is from there not being enough oil under the cup to fully fill the void, providing hydraulic pressure to the lifter cup to hold it in the "up" position. If you are not getting enough oil in there in the first place, thcker oil is going to be more difficult to get into there and may actually do the reverese of what you want. Now, a collapsed lifter is a whole different issue and you will absolutely know if you have a collapsed lifter as the "tic" becomes more of a "rap" or loud "clicking" The tic is going to be more of an annoyance than anything. Now that you have treated the lifter, drive it for a while and see if it loosens up. You may still end up with a tic at a certain RPM.

9.93@135mph w/200 shot 10.55@128mph NA, 6.0L/366cid
2013 & 2014 MSHS SuperStock and 2014 MSHS Index Season Co-Champion
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I'll post some video up of it later, but man it's loud as hell especially from the passenger side wheel well. I know it won't hurt anything, but sure would be embarrassing to pull in to a car show with the engine sounding like this.
What I'm struggling with is why it doesn't do it at all cold. I mean the engine purrs like a kitten when I first start it up, and it doesn't do it over 1200 or so RPMs. It purrs like a kitten again.
If the lifter cup isn't getting enough oil, then shouldn't it click all the time? The oil looked perfectly clean in the heads and on the dip stick as well. The oil in this thing gets changed about every 3K - 4K miles with Mobil1 Synthetic.
-Speedy
Orange Krush
Arrington Powered 2009 R/T 6 Speed Tuned by [email protected]
Jay just tear it down. Time for an upgrade. Get yourself some of them fancy heads for xmas ![]()

If oil change doesn't resolve I'd suggest pulling the cover again quickly while hot and try collapsing lifter by pushing on rocker. If goes down easily then I'd think a check valve like thingy in lifter went end of life way early. Damn yes, you've had a couple weird ones.
Haha, pulling the passenger side valve cover and the term "quickly" aren't synonymous
. Even cold, I was able to move one of the push rods and rockers quite a bit. Interestingly all the intake push rods were a bit more loose than the exhaust side. I could barely move the exhaust ones at all, some of the intake ones would move 1/4 inch or so side to side over top of the valve. However the one at CYL4 moves about a full inch from side to side easily even when dead cold.
I'll get it figured out eventually.
-Speedy
Orange Krush
Arrington Powered 2009 R/T 6 Speed Tuned by [email protected]
That you will and the knowledge base gains again as a result. Happy Holidays.
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