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funkpolice

Which Bottle Heater Should I Get?

I'm ditching the NANO system this year as I feel it's just complicating things for me. I'm looking at bottle heaters and want to know which are good and what to stay away from. I like the look of the billet heated brackets from N2O Outlet, but how well do they work? Are the blanket type heaters any good? How quickly will a heater drain my battery? Would I be able to leave in on without running the car to get the bottles up to temp, or am I going to have to add an auxiliary battery to my list of shit that I pile into the car for the track?

bill

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I run a dyno tune heater and it has worked great it will heat my 10 lb bottle quickly even in colder weather , the only one I've been told to stay away from us the zex heater . As for as draining my battery haven't had any issues

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The heaters on the nitrous outlet bracket seem to work nice, it will come with a bottle pressure switch/solenoid that will shut it on and off when it detects a maximum limited PSI.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/nitrous-accessories/bottle-heater-accessories/nitrous-outlet-bottle-adjustable-pressure-switch-750-1200-psi.html

Single or dual heater brackets are available. Granted this is my first though and haven't had any others but it seems to work great.

I'm about to find out soon how bad (if it does) it drains my battery. I have a feeling I will need to upgrade the alternator and battery to a red top with all the other electronics that I included.

They way I have mine set up, I got to have the car at least on accessory mode to turn the switch panel/button on for the heaters to turn on.

I'm sure there could be a way to make it a constant regardless if car is on, but I haven't tried it. If you would like, email [email protected] (dude that helped me and had some good knowledge on the set up/electronics) or contact anyone there; all of them are good staff. I'm sure they could let you know if you could hook up a constant.

Sent from el mobile de WildChild

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Eric at ARC for a heater to wrap around the bottle that runs both 115 VAC and 12V DC. I plug in my 10 # bottle and its at 1150 in just minutes using 115V from trailer generator. I also have a Honda portable generator EU2000i but a EU1000i would work great too. Handy around the pits to have. Never found a need to use 12V DC to heat the bottle.

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thanks for all the replies. Unfortunately, I drive my car to the track with a full load of wheels and tires in the trunk/back seat, so I don't have a generator to use. Someday I'll trailer and make track days much easier. I ordered the N2O heated bottle bracket this afternoon.

bill

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I'm installing the new heated bottle bracket tomorrow morning. The bottle is in the trunk. Is there any reason to run the heater activation switch all the way up to the dash if I'm not using N2O on the street? I was thinking just mount the switch in the trunk and flip it on when I open the bottle before a pass. I made a switch panel last year and didn't leave a spot for a heater switch as I was using NANO. What I did think about doing was putting a small led up front somewhere that would light when the heater was on. If I see the bottle pressure is high, at least I can see that the heater is not on. Any thoughts from experienced users?

bill

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I'm installing the new heated bottle bracket tomorrow morning. The bottle is in the trunk. Is there any reason to run the heater activation switch all the way up to the dash if I'm not using N2O on the street? I was thinking just mount the switch in the trunk and flip it on when I open the bottle before a pass. I made a switch panel last year and didn't leave a spot for a heater switch as I was using NANO. What I did think about doing was putting a small led up front somewhere that would light when the heater was on. If I see the bottle pressure is high, at least I can see that the heater is not on. Any thoughts from experienced users?

bill

Your ideas aren't bad at all. I'll leave the following .02.

1. Having the switch upfront will allow you to at least turn it on halfway drive to the track.

2. Did it come with the regulator/solenoid that will automatically cut off the heaters after the bottles after it reaches a certain PSI?

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Yes, I have the pressure switch that will turn it off at a set psi, then when it falls 75 psi, it turns it back on. When I get to the track I have to change all 4 wheels, do the tech inspection, etc. plenty of time to warm the bottles....I think? How long does it take to warm a bottle? Worst case scenario, less than half a bottle and it's 50 degrees outside.

bill

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Yes, I have the pressure switch that will turn it off at a set psi, then when it falls 75 psi, it turns it back on. When I get to the track I have to change all 4 wheels, do the tech inspection, etc. plenty of time to warm the bottles....I think? How long does it take to warm a bottle? Worst case scenario, less than half a bottle and it's 50 degrees outside.

bill

Based on what you've provided I would say, put the switches at your convenience. My .02

Of convenice would be near the driver seat at the coin switch tray/ near the driver seat to turn on ahead of time to save time before a race. Let the mechanics do the rest.

What I've seen, it takes 5-10 minutes to heat up the bottles before the solenoid starts regulating

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I got the bracket in and wired today. It's too tall to mount in the spare tire will like I was hoping to, so I put it up top for not until I think up a better solution. Is it ok to run my blow down fitting to a length of braided hose that is connected to a bulkhead out the bottom of the trunk, or does it have to be a solid tube? My old blow down tube is too short now that the bottle is sitting higher. Still want to run an idiot light up front for the heater to verify on/off from the driver's seat.

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