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Header Install
#41
Posted 14 December 2012 - 11:44 AM
2014 Ram Sport QC 4x4, 8-speed
2013 Charger SXT, 8-speed
2010 Challenger RT, 6-speed (retired)
#42
Posted 14 December 2012 - 01:00 PM
Stevo
11.55 @ 118.77 mph with a 1.61 60' June 14th 2014 London Motorsports Park


530 rwhp 458 trq
"Tooned by Mike @ OST"
#43
Posted 14 December 2012 - 11:19 PM
A picture with dimensions would be awesome.
2014 Ram Sport QC 4x4, 8-speed
2013 Charger SXT, 8-speed
2010 Challenger RT, 6-speed (retired)
#44
Posted 15 December 2012 - 06:56 AM
Stevo
11.55 @ 118.77 mph with a 1.61 60' June 14th 2014 London Motorsports Park


530 rwhp 458 trq
"Tooned by Mike @ OST"
#45
Posted 15 December 2012 - 07:22 AM
I'm such a damn visual person I did some Googling and found a thread where Speedy posted a photo. Looks like just a few inches to the right. And just guessing you want as close as possible since the other sensor is on "top" and further down would cause condensation issues?
2014 Ram Sport QC 4x4, 8-speed
2013 Charger SXT, 8-speed
2010 Challenger RT, 6-speed (retired)
#46
Posted 19 October 2014 - 10:36 PM
Your right the Bosch 15510 (Made in Japan) are OE style length of 12". I just went out to the car a looked at the ones I have in the trunk that I took to the Mile just in case. The Denso 2344587 (234-4587) are the longer version are 14" and assembled in the US with parts from off shore. I ordered 2 and only needed 1.
I use a 2010 6.1 Challenger for my orders from RockAuto.
The wrenches are from Harbor Frieght and they work just fine. If you need a set let me know as I am only 12 miles from HF.
Lastly the gaskets and header bolts were only $27 from the local Dodge dealer.
Resurrecting an old thread but just ordered Felpro gaskets and Denso sensors from Rock auto to do the SRT shortie conversion. Gonna run SRT mids as well. Any reason why I should have went with Factory gaskets??
#47
Posted 19 October 2014 - 10:46 PM
I get them because I ordered the header bolts and the cost was reasonable.
2010 Stone White R/T
#48
Posted 20 October 2014 - 02:12 PM
Ok so I have my shorties, midpipes, SRT exhaust kit, gaskets, sensors and gonna order/pick up my bolts from the dealer and get 2 nuts for spacers from ACE. What other parts do I need for this install? Gonna also run to harbor freight for some flex wrenches. Fridge is already full of beer!! Hoping to knock it out on Saturday!!!
#49
Posted 20 October 2014 - 02:29 PM
2010 Stone White R/T
#50
Posted 20 October 2014 - 02:48 PM
Lock the Fridge... other than thst your good to go. If you do not remove anything or loosen a motor mount... it will 2x longer thsn you planned.
Kewl!!! The beer is really for after. I can't drink and work...................on anything!!! Got a couple of friends to help me so hopefully we can knock it out quickly.
#51
Posted 20 October 2014 - 03:03 PM
#52
Posted 20 October 2014 - 04:04 PM
If you do not remove anything or loosen a motor mount... it will 2x longer thsn you planned.
This is soooo true
2006 magnum srt with forged vvt 392 14.5 psi magnuson s/c quaife diff 3:55 gears dss 1400 hp axels and shaft viking trans fti 2800 converter lmi cai spohn rear traction kit
future mods .....nothing that deals with power I am poor!!!
#53
Posted 20 October 2014 - 07:19 PM
Driver side first. It is the easiest side to do. Undoing the motor mount and raising the engine saves MUCHO time. Flat ratchets are your friend. I believe you need a 6.1 heat shield for the starter if this is a 345 hemi. You do not need a 6.1 dipstick if this is a 345. You will have to bend the old dipstick slightly. I used factory gaskets.
Stevo
11.55 @ 118.77 mph with a 1.61 60' June 14th 2014 London Motorsports Park


530 rwhp 458 trq
"Tooned by Mike @ OST"
#54
Posted 20 October 2014 - 07:50 PM
Driver side first. It is the easiest side to do. Undoing the motor mount and raising the engine saves MUCHO time. Flat ratchets are your friend. I believe you need a 6.1 heat shield for the starter if this is a 345 hemi. You do not need a 6.1 dipstick if this is a 345. You will have to bend the old dipstick slightly. I used factory gaskets.
Stevo
Hmmmm 6.1 heat shield????? Well crapola!!
Or just shim the exhaust bolt that holds it with a couple of nuts???
#55
Posted 20 October 2014 - 07:50 PM
Driver side first. It is the easiest side to do. Undoing the motor mount and raising the engine saves MUCHO time. Flat ratchets are your friend. I believe you need a 6.1 heat shield for the starter if this is a 345 hemi. You do not need a 6.1 dipstick if this is a 345. You will have to bend the old dipstick slightly. I used factory gaskets.
Stevo
I run without the heat shield nor did I have to cut any cable wrap to get anything to clear.
I did use the 14" O2 sensor for my lower O2 along with Big Daddies Mini Cat to clear the CEL's for th high flow cats.
You do not need to bend the dip stick tube if you use the 5.7 bolt and a couple nuts to shim it.
One last thing....these help.
But this really helps....
2010 Stone White R/T
#56
Posted 20 October 2014 - 08:05 PM
I run without the heat shield nor did I have to cut any cable wrap to get anything to clear.
I did use the 14" O2 sensor for my lower O2 along with Big Daddies Mini Cat to clear the CEL's for th high flow cats.
You do not need to bend the dip stick tube if you use the 5.7 bolt and a couple nuts to shim it.
One last thing....these help.
But this really helps....
Got the lift, long Denso sensors and will be getting those same wrenches. Don't guess I need the big Daddy's for now since I'm running the 6.1 midpipes/cats.
#57
Posted 24 October 2014 - 04:39 PM
Got mostly done in 6 hrs!! Geez those bolts are tougher to get to with the SRT shorties than they are with the 5.7 manifold!!!! Removed oil filter took motor mounts loose unbolted fuse box bracket. Still a biatch!!!
So how do you guys judge if these bolts are tight enough? I don't feel like I'm getting enough movement to put any real pressure on them. No way I'm getting a torque wrench in there.
Thought about adding a small cheater for just a little added torque? If I can even get that in and move it.
Also the longer O2 sensors, are these for the top bung or the bottom? I assume the top since the sensor is so much lower.
#58
Posted 24 October 2014 - 04:48 PM
2010 Stone White R/T
#59
Posted 24 October 2014 - 05:21 PM
Don't use a cheater bar. Longer O2 used on the bottom in my case as I had Magna Flow HF cats. 6.1's are probably the same as the O2 on the 5.7 is in the cat.
Don't really like to but it just doesn't seem like I'm getting enough on those bolts but I guess I am, didn't need a cheater to remove but I had a little more freedom of movement too.
Lucky for me that I had a couple of buddies helping me. I did some but was seated a lot. I was moving things around in the shop to prepare this morning, while moving my 273 that's on the engine stand something caught one of the wheels and caused it to tip. I tried to stop it and get it back up right and thought I had it but the wheels slide out from under it and down we went. I either sprained or broke my foot!!! Swelled up like a pumpkin now!! Geez what a putz!! Guess I'm lucky that it didn't land on me!!
Stayed on it as much as I could trying to help but ended up letting the other two do most of the work.Really grateful for those two guys. Told em we could put it off till later but they were ready to go. We're gonna try to sew it up in the morning.
#60
Posted 25 October 2014 - 09:21 PM
Whew, got er done!! Installed the Dynomax VT system behind the headers and mids. 3" front to rear!!
Has a nice rumble to it. Now the wife is bugging me for the Vortech to be installed!!!
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