Pat McCrotch

Stock or low powered n/a sticks are pretty cut n dry. Your 1.7X 60' is acceptable. A tad of launch bog but it was out a bit so it cost you little. Power shifting will help marginally but may come with a price. Your 5800 shift target sounds right on a r/t and a little lower will cost you little on the first two changes due to tran gearing. Freeze your vid as soon as you go to 4th. You will clearly see you are short of the 1/8 by quite some yet only 83 mph at the 1/8. Clearly that shift to 4th occurred well below your desired target RPM because 5800 should be 84.X in 3rd. Going in to 4th gear is weak on all sticks due to the huge rpm drop. You will be below 4K at 5800 and there just isn't any hp spinning that low. In your vid you must have come in way way lower than 4K so you left even more et & mph on the table. Prove it to yourself. Dedicate a pass to hold 3rd right to the limiter. You should make it past the 1/8 mile marker and slip should clearly show a lower 1/8 et and a mph or more. If you concentrate on wringing all you can out of 3rd you'll get your 12 and probably some mph along with it. I see no mention of skinny tires or wheels up front. If they are not there you can grab a couple tenths and some mph from them.

I can't speak to the tq mngmnt portion but this is much related to the auto being faster than the stick debate. Manual trans gear ratios designed for 1/4 mile performance always have their biggest RPM drop when going in to 2nd gear, in to third a little less and in to 4th the least. That is so as the aero resistance rises to being the biggest hurdle to continue acceleration the engine is spinning fast enough to pull through it. Cars need adequate RPM/HP in order to pull from the bottom of a 1:1 ratio. Going in there at 41 to 4300 RPM is far from ideal. Chrysler chose to do the exact opposite and exacerbated it with a very very short second gear. The only reason I can come up with was to make a willing sacrifice in 1/4 mile ET in trade to achieve the quickest 0-60 mph time possible. Indeed that goal is huge in the marketing world but is worthless on the strip. One simply can not expend all torque multiplication from trans gearing 100 feet before the 1/8 stripe, then nose over going in to 4th and not even finish close to red line. If one looks at trans gearing in the Camaro / CTSV and others that use tremecs today you will see they opted to string out the gears in the conventional way and come in to 4th at a higher ground speed which equates to RPM and power. So yeah, we kick ass to 60mph and you can even stay with your buds Camaro thru 3.....then say good bye once you go in to 4th. I used to do the same with my SRT stick vs my buds 5.7 auto....it's far less stick vs auto than it is average power application over 1320' due to gearing.

Again, it's gearing efficiency not driver ability. If launches are dead equal, top speeds are dead equal, CD is dead equal it can be nothing other than gearing.

If a one time event most likely you got out of it just prior to the stripe. MPH will dive but not effect ET much at all. Congrats Speedy on yet another PB. Don't let that slower 60 more MPH stuff confuse matters. It can and does happen but only under one condition and far from usual. That being when you transition from a too much spin to a hook at say at the 45-50 mark the inertia from everything wound up will provide a surge of several mph instantly just like at end of burnout. So you lose a tad of time yet are at a higher mph thru 60. All things equal if you are at a faster mph be it at 60.330,660 you will be faster at end. Carl & Sam both told me at the mile the launch does not matter. Well it does but way way less in a mile vs 1/4. If you want to join the 200 club but had a 199.9 you'd wish you had left quicker. On paper it goes this way..... http://www.w8ji.com/tire_spin_and_mph_myth.htm

I think you will find the Moroso pan capacity to be 11 qt vs 12. Can't guess why anyone would run only 8 qt in it. Fingers crossed for ya at 10.

Perhaps a simple overfill ? Sure they provided correct dipstick & tube ? Dump it down to the add line and see if it provides any benefit. 6.1 mani has a labyrinth just prior to PCV and should be knocking down any significant oil heading to valve.

AFCO Drak-Pak combo used 14" - 225 lbs on front and 12" - 125 lbs on rear. I wasn't happy with rears and advice from AFCO was: "If your car is a drag only application, a 125lb. spring should be fine. If your car is not 100% drag I would suggest moving up to a 150lb. spring." Went to 150's in rear and saw little difference. 4007 lbs with driver.

Got 4&5 coming in right now.

He drained my tear ducts

Just had a chat with a track light guy and things are even further from what they seemed to be. First off the 60' light is high because those that carry tires don't want the time recorded when rear tires cross. Fair enough but the vast majority of racers noses are lower than 10" and are triggering early. Second of all the stage light is 7" after the pre-stage and then there is a guard beam 16" beyond the stage. That is to make sure someone doesn't cheat with low hanging obstacle from beneath. If you reach out 16" and stage light is still on it throws a red light. But now.....ALL down track measurements are made from that guard beam. So, if you have the shallowest stage possible you are sitting 61'- 4" to the 60' timer and 1,321'- 4" from the finish line. No wonder folks can't make sense of chit even with beer.

It's probably as much variables vs how Speedy. I participated in some testing at a closed track earlier this year and learned a bit checking out the lights. The pre-stage and stage lights were 1.5" off the ground so I had a full 12" of rollout (camaro/skinnies) avail and that had a considerable impact on 60 and ET's. With traction and shallow stage you could be at 3mph when the timer started. Or, much less depending on how deep I put it in. What really got me though from racing without 60' info back in the day was how high they put the detector beam down track....10". So, if your nose is back down or it just stays low you are going to break the 60' beam with the air dam or another body part 58' after departure. If she stays up and at em passing through the 60 the tire will break the beam two feet later at a true 60' traveled mark. I can easily see people scratching heads after making suspension changes and the car reacts the opposite way on the slip. I know it's tough to just tickle the stage light with a stick but shallowest staging possible every time is not just better going for PB's but it will reduce at least one of the larger variables impacting the 60.

I wasn't dissing driver ability or lack of. Other than slight bog it sounded like a decent pass to me. Speedy sad he found it sad that we still get excited seeing 10 second 6 speeds. This was first vid I'd seen of a 6spd HC is all and 119 at the stripe vs 115 with my 6.1 n/a is far from what I would have guessed or want as an owner.

My .02 cents on the overall symptom. 6 spds are seeing far more probs with disengagement than slippage despite the fact that discs and flywheels begin losing material at day 1. Over time they should disengage more easily and regress towards eventual slippage not the other way around. I suspect when one upgrades to a higher clamp force unit that utilizes the stock TOB (like my Spec and perhaps others) the TOB simply may not be up to the increased release pressure required and loses throw. Once it exceeds clutch/FW wear disengagement lessens. Purging fluid always worth a shot. Try putting it in neutral idling for 30 seconds and then go to reverse quickly. If it grinds badly it's dragging if not you may have a coast down scenario that can simulate a drag. Park on a good hill pointing down in 1st, shut her off, let clutch out to hold it then slowly depress it till she moves. You should be able to tell if pedal is close to correct release position or way to close to floor till it begins to move.

This sad to me.