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Pistons For Pump Gas And Max Hp

Looking for insight on best /most power combination with a procharged 2011 SRT8. I am replacing pistons and rods and was thinking that I would lower static compression by a point or so to get back some timing and put the peter to it with more PSI. I see that there are now dished pistons available. I only have access to 91 octane (its a daily driver, but so is a hellcat) and want to hit the mid to high 700hp on pump gas. I of course will have a race fuel tune for the track, but most of my driving is street and want to maximize my combo. Trying to stay with the stock cam or something close enough so that I can detune, swap injectors to stock if need be and remove the blower for california smog. Anyone done this or have insight on a good combo? I appreciate any and all input you guys may have..

Thanks

JIM

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I'd keep the compression higher and lower the boost. You'll have the same power at a lower IAT.

As for pistions, if you're doing drop ins I think the 4032 are typically recommended due to their slightly softer nature vs. 2618. If building the full engine with honing, etc then get the 2618s.

Reach out to Hemi31 on this forum. He is the resident expert on this type of question.

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Thanks Speedy, I appreciate the reply. My block has a few miles on it so I am probably going to have to bore or at min hone to square the bores up I imagine (70k) so I can go either way. The car feels like it pulls a ton of timing and is fighting detonation. If I hold rpms and let them build slowly it runs incredible and if I pedal it at that point I can blow the tires off at 30-40mph, if I just stand on it or roll on in lower rpms without letting it level out first it feels like torque management/timing takes over and is really retarded and sluggish, so I was thinking by lowering the compression I might get some timing back and not have that issue. I am from old school tuning so its taking me some time to figure this computer controlled stuff out (it seems the target is always moving and adjusting). Supossedly this combo makes mid 600 HP but doesnt feel like it. I have no ETs or 1/4 MPH to compare to but I have owned numerous 500 hp/ 11 second cars and this doesnt feel like it pulls like a mid 600 hp car should. Thank you for your reply and I will follow up on your advice. I want to be sure of what I need before pulling the trigger and appreciate any advice I can get....Thanks again.

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Torque mgmt and timing pull are different animals. Unless your tune was way off and you were hearing detonation, I doubt timing pull would really be that noticeable to the driver. Torque mgmt on the other hand is VERY noticeable.

It gets pretty complicated in these cars with torque mgmt I'm told. The throttle input goes in to an algorithm that basically asks the question "how much torque is the driver demanding" and it opens the throttle blade, and does a bunch of other stuff based on that answer through the parameters of the algorithm. This is how it has been explained to me for my model year anyway.

My tuner had to turn my torque mgmt WAY down in the tune for the car to drive like it should. I can get the tires spinning really good and even getting a bit sideways before Mr. Squiggles starts to show himself on the dash, telling me those torque mgmt tables have certainly been manipulated.

It may be as simple as having your tune reviewed/tweaked and you'll be happy. My motto is always KISS.

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Have you measured that 8# psi with a data log, or are you taking their word for it? Are you running the tune that Procharger ships with the kit? What size pulley is on the head unit?

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Data log and 2 different gauges. It's a modified tune. When I bought the car it had the blower but not the tuner. I shortly after located the tuner and found it had a few different tunes and had to try them all to find the best one. I plugged in my laptop to check parameters / PIDs.

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Auto for now..in the process of swapping over to a 6 speed

Now that's different lol

Going from fast to slow, or as we say, full retard! Welcome to the club lol

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