78 replies to this topic

[HemiSam]

Andy's right. The stock heads on a 2009+ 5.7 are Eagle heads...they flow pretty damn great. They are to come with a washered seat plug (some call it gasketed). Many have used a tapered seat plug on them with no issues but if you pull your plugs off your Eagle heads and they are with washer, then use the plugs Andy recommends with washers. If you've gone ahead and used a tapered seat plug then you don't go back to a washered seat since it's an aluminum head...the thinking being it's taken shape. A LOT of folks have run a tapered seat plug on the Eagle heads without issue. I'm running Brisks with a tapered seat and checked with Nitrous Outlet..no prob's and the results have been great (no comments on six speeds being slow as hell, thank you )

Note that the thread portion of both plugs is equal in length. When I was installing the Iridiums, I checked the stocker against the Iridium listed and confirmed they were the same length on the bottom part. Zero issue with the top being slightly different. Also, the parts dep't at the local dealership provides the same SRT8 plug for both the 6.1 and the 5.7 R/T. The only question is if the washer slightly alters the length of the plug protruding through the head. Hopefully Andy can check this out for us at some point and post up.

Thanks to Andy for posting good info.

HemiSam

[Speedy]

What do you mean by standard? Copper is the material of choice for most.

Sorry, should have been clear. Copper plugs are what I meant by standard.

Ok.... getting confused here. Lets start with the head. I presume the "Eagle" head is an aftermarket piece like Indy? Or does Mutha Mopar call her heads Eagle?

Does this plug (NGK-LZTR6AIX-13.) work in a 5.7 stock head/Maggie equipped? It won't be shallow like in Andy's pic? We should do a quick poll to see who is running what and in what style of motor.

Not trying to be a pain in the ass.

BTW, luv threads like this one. Thanks for starting Andy.

Stevo

Steve, going one step cooler probably won't hurt, but just FYI I'm using STOCK plugs in mine at 12psi. It's what Arrington put in there with the build and I've never changed them. I did a plug check a while back and they looked perfectly fine. I'm not sure you need to spend the money on plugs unless you just have some extra to burn at the moment.

I agree, these threads Andy started have been awesome.

[StevoHemi]

Thanks Jay. I will see what AJ says. Maybe just buy copper ones just for the hell of it. Jeez... I have had my ride for 16 months and I never knew the hemi was called an Eagle. Learning something new everyday.

Stevo

[HemiSam]

Those heads are nice pieces, Stevo. Flow real good as they are and if you get all serious about flow and cam, then you can port and polish and beef up springs, valve job, etc... Real nice as is though

HemiSam

[Stricnine]

I'm running NGK LFR6C-11 (#7787). They are 1 heat range colder than stock, and come with a gasket and are the same length as the stock plugs.

[NTMID8R-R/T]

these are the ones I put in mine when I changed them.

and they came in Mopar boxes

http://moesperforman...oducts_id=12610

[Andy@PWR]

If you click on that link, the part number shows the same as the part number I provided. Thats the oem eagle plug.

[Speedy]

Over the winter, I plan to change out my plugs. They're still the ones that came in the car stock, and it's got a bit over 12K miles on it now. I think the stock ones have been fine, as I've not had any issues, but figure going one step colder can't hurt. So the question is what plug?

NGK LFR6C-11 (#7787) - copper plug similar to stock one step colder than stock - $5 per plug

NGK LFR6AIX-11 (#6619) - standard iridium - one step colder than stock - $8 per plug

NGK ILZFR6D11 (#1208) - laser iridium - one step colder than stock, listed as "long life" $12 per plug

My gut is to get the 6619, but a couple of the trusted tuners said the iridiums foul out on them, yet Andy reports tons of folks use them in FI setups.

[Andy@PWR]

Stage 6 Motorsports refuses to use anything but Iridium's. I like the Brisk silver plugs or copper plugs.

Brisk ER14YS gets my vote.

[BayouTiger]

Is the RR14YS the same except tapered? My car has started having a little miss and some exhaust popping. Since there are no codes being thrown and it started suddenly it might likely be a coil pack or wonky plugs. My Brisks have been in since before the stroker so I am thinking of swapping them. I have heard that Brisk made gone plugs that were problematic about two years ago when mine went in. Think I'll get a set of coppers and a coil pack (just in case) just to swap and see what happens. I can try the pack in each cylinder and see what happens.

[Andy@PWR]

Probably fouled plugs. For some reason I was thinking you had eagle heads which would require ER14YS plugs. I could be wrong. The Brisks run much colder than most. When you would normally run a 2 step colder plug, use a 1 step with Brisk.

[BayouTiger]

I have your "Mean Street Heads" I thought they were worked over Apache's. I to think the plugs are fouled. The first one I looked at was pretty bad.
I picked up a coil pack just in case they are only $31. Looking for a set of plugs here local.

[Andy@PWR]

You definitely dont have Apache's. We didnt even have Apache's then. Mean Street only means that they are our standard CNC Ported Heads. They could be Eagles, 6.1's, Apache's, or even the older 5.7's. Most of my blower cars are running Eagles. I will check on yours on Monday.

[BayouTiger]

Swapped the plugs ths morning went with the Autolite XP5263 which a supposed to be similar to NGK's 6 range. The Brisk's were fouled horribly. What a difference! My car hasn't run like this in ages (maybe ever!)

[dodgetime]

great story Chuck, so you just went to a parts jobber and he crossed your Brisk pn to another brand? did you stay with the same heat range?

[Speedy]

Got pics of the fouled Brisks Chuck? What P/N were they?

I'll be swapping to the NGK 6619s here soon myself. 1 step colder for my combo.

[BayouTiger]

Here's a pic of the plugs as they came out. They were consistent, but fouled badly. I wish it was as easy as having a job shop cross them. I did hours of research as I was determined to get them swapped this weekend and no one stocks the NGK's here in other than the stock ranges. Used too be you could go to the book and match the thread, length, range, etc and find the plug you want, now every place you look you have to enter your make and model so it's dame near impossible to find info on anything but the stock cross. I finally found from some of the import sites that the Autolite (who no longer publishes normal heat ranges-but the XP5263 is listed as their coldest, whatever that really means ) was equal to the Denso ITV22 which is their plug that is equal to the NGK 6 range plug. I will be ordering a set of NGK's in both 6 and 7 range just to have them for next time as I tend to be spur of the moment with these things as I have time.

I only have about 3000 lies on the motor and these plugs made the trip over from the 6.1. SHR cain they looked fine when they moved them over (they would have been happy to sell me another set if not), so I think this is all from the 419. I am thinking that while the 2 steps were fine on the 10:1 motor at 8lbs, the 8.8:1 motor and 11lbs needs only 1 step. Andy said that the Brisks run very cold anyway so maybe a two step in the other brands would be appropriate. I do know that I am not the first one I know that has removed the Brisks and said good riddance!

[Speedy]

Thanks Chuck. Makes me feel good about doing the NGK Iridiums.

[rdrdr90]

Sorry guys, gotta ask...From what I have read it seems split on whether you should use iridium plugs with N2O applications. Any thoughts?

[Andy@PWR]

The material isnt as important as the heat range.