96 replies to this topic

[StentS]

The car only has 650 miles on it. When I picked it up from the dealer, I noticed the fuel delivery felt a little funny on light acceleration. The next morning when it was cold, it missed really bad when I accelerated until it was warmed up to about a quarter on the temp gauge. I brought the car back to the dealer and naturally they could not duplicate. I brought it back again and left it overnight. The tech said the cold idle circuit sensor was not recording and he replaced it. The car is worse now than it was before. I hate to use "bucks and bobbles", but that is exactly what it does.....
I have another overnight appointment for tomorrow.

Anyone else have any issues like this?
Or maybe some suggestions as to what it could be before I bring it back?

Thanks and Happy New Year....
Vince

[HemiSam]

You try changing the fuel and what are you running? Start with the simple stuff.

HemiSam

[StentS]

When I brought it back the first time, they suggested adding a fuel conditioner so I added a can to the half tank and drove it until almost empty. Filled it up with Shell 91 octane and drove about 100 miles. The next morning it was the same problem. That's when I left it overnight with the dealer.

[HemiSam]

Fuel or spark. Might be why they had the car on the lot with so few miles. Have they tried reloading the CAL ID and the tune just to make sure the software's right? Easy to do. could be a vacuum leak but I'm thinking it's fuel/spark. Could be a coil pack but if it's smoothing out once it's warm, that doesn't make sense to me.

You got lemon law in your state just in case it gets ugly?

HemiSam

[StentS]

I mentioned to the tech that it felt like a bad plug or coil pack, but he dismissed it right away saying the coil packs never are bad from the factory. He also said the computer is logging correctly so it couldn't be that. It did not record any misfires. Although it kinda smooths out when it warms up, it still doesn't feel right. Hesitates and the fuel delivery isn't smooth.
The car had 11 miles on it when I bought it new off the lot. It has been doing this since day one.
I will have to look into lemon law, I really hope I don't go there. I love the car and I have big plans for it. But I am not touching it until they get it right....
I have been afraid to drive it anymore for fear of ruining something else because of the problem, that's why so few miles so far....

[HemiSam]

Could be your fuel pump. That's an easy fix. The coil packs do go bad. They need to get it right or you'll be beating on those pistons unnecessarily. Definitely keep the pressure on them and I'd do a compression test once it's right to make sure your rings are in good shape. Easy to do.

HemiSam

[StentS]

This is my first ever Mopar and even with the issues, I am not sorry. The car is an amazing piece of machinery.
Always been a Chevy guy and I am pretty good with wrenches. I have all the hand tools I need including compression testers and a 3 car garage to work in. I have plans to get it into the 11's I just don't want to touch it until they get it right....

[HemiSam]

Good luck. Don't need to be boosting or spraying her unless she's sound and if it's not, it's on Dodge.

HemiSam

[skialfs]

My 09 SRT 6 spd runs like crap for the first minute of driving all the time. I don't know what it is either. It goes away as soon as it is warm. I have to pull out on a highway as my street is a dead end. I try to let the car warm up to at least 100-120F before pulling out in first, but it still stumbles. I'm not getting codes. I did have a reflash of the PCM last year for a misfire code.
My car is stock except for glass packs in place of rear resonators. I always use Sunoco 91. I'm hesitant to bring it in for this as I don't want to hear the bullshit. I'll be watching this thread for sure.

[skialfs]

I just got an Equus Innova 3130 code reader/live data logger for Xmas so I'm gonna plug her in and try to record some data during the event. Hopefully I will see something interesting and report back. Just not sure when that will happen as I've mushed my chin spoiler(thing is pointing up now...) and it's all apart-damn plastic rivets!!! Could they have made that damn thing any harder to disassemble!

[HemiSam]

Sorry to hear that skialfs....been there done that. At least you don't have a 2011+. They incorporate the chin spoiler support into the lower grille in the bumper cover so it's all one piece. You break it and you have to remove the front bumper cover to yank the old one out and install a new one. Crazy.

Hopefully you didn't tear up the belly pan with the brake ducts. That's where the real money is.

HemiSam

[skialfs]

Thanks HemiSam...pans are A ok. Boy that sucks on the new ones. KInda off topic but, I thought we could put the new style dam on the 09's? Was thinking about.
Mine might be ok, I need to remove it and take a look at the main support piece, somethings not right as it is curving up in the center, need to see someone elses to know how much.

[Jay6spdRT]

I've never had any cold drive-ability issues at all with my 2010 R/T six-speed Although she doesn't get driven in the winter, I've started the car with air temps in the mid 20s a number of times - no issues. I don't bring the rpms over 3000 until the car is fully warmed up - but there's no surging or bucking at low speeds or low RPMs.

[skialfs]

I've never had any cold drive-ability issues at all with my 2010 R/T six-speed Although she doesn't get driven in the winter, I've started the car with air temps in the mid 20s a number of times - no issues. I don't bring the rpms over 3000 until the car is fully warmed up - but there's no surging or bucking at low speeds or low RPMs.

I don't take her over 3000 cold either Jay, but this symptom manifests below 2000 rpms.

How about it StentS...at what rpms does this happen to yours?

[StentS]

It starts when I first hit the gas to accelerate. I dont hit it haard, just light pedal. It stumbles from around 1200 rpm up to around 3500. Haven't taken it above 3500 when the motor is cold. Kinda reminds me of the old days in a car without a choke in cold weather. Its always cold here this time of year. I keep it in an insulated garage but the garage isnt heated. Temps here range from 0 to about 25 in the mornings this time of year.
Thanks for all the feedback....
Vince

[Jay6spdRT]

I've started and driven my car in cold weather (20s) and experienced no symptoms like you're describing. Modern computer controlled fuel injected vehicles are specifically designed to eliminate or minimize any such drive-ability issues that old carb cars with chokes might have experienced in cold weather.

I would keep complaining, and escalate it to Chrysler if your dealer can't resolve it. This is NOT normal behavior for these cars and don't let some dealer try to weasel out of fixing the problem by trying to convince you it IS!

[StentS]

I've started and driven my car in cold weather (20s) and experienced no symptoms like you're describing. Modern computer controlled fuel injected vehicles are specifically designed to eliminate or minimize any such drive-ability issues that old carb cars with chokes might have experienced in cold weather.

I would keep complaining, and escalate it to Chrysler if your dealer can't resolve it. This is NOT normal behavior for these cars and don't let some dealer try to weasel out of fixing the problem by trying to convince you it IS!

I made the dealer let me drive another new R/T the same day I had it there the last time. That car had none of the issues mine does. I took their service manager with me on the test of the other car. They admit there is an issue, but they thought it was resolved whe n they changed the sensor last time.
I have had enough computer controlled new vehicles not to know there is a problem with this one, and it sounds like I am not the only one with the same problem.
Its just a real pain for me to take it to the dealer. Its 30+ miles away and I have to leave it overnight so I have to take a hotel room for the night as the dealer doesnt do loaners or courtesy rides beyond 15 miles.
I really hope they can find it this time, I love the car....

[Jay6spdRT]

I made the dealer let me drive another new R/T the same day I had it there the last time. That car had none of the issues mine does. I took their service manager with me on the test of the other car. They admit there is an issue, but they thought it was resolved whe n they changed the sensor last time.
I have had enough computer controlled new vehicles not to know there is a problem with this one, and it sounds like I am not the only one with the same problem.
Its just a real pain for me to take it to the dealer. Its 30+ miles away and I have to leave it overnight so I have to take a hotel room for the night as the dealer doesnt do loaners or courtesy rides beyond 15 miles.
I really hope they can find it this time, I love the car....

I would complain about the lack of any consideration from this dealer (loaner car, courtesy ride, etc) to CHRYSLER itself. That's outrageous. I've had a number of loaner cars from dealers over the years for warranty work and I've never been put on any distance restrictions.

[HemiSam]

Best of luck. I never had such an issue when my car was stock in the winter in Houston. We don't see freezing often but it gets cold enough at times and I never had cold start issues.

HemiSam

[StentS]

I would complain about the lack of any consideration from this dealer (loaner car, courtesy ride, etc) to CHRYSLER itself. That's outrageous. I've had a number of loaner cars from dealers over the years for warranty work and I've never been put on any distance restrictions.

Trust me,,,, If they dont fix it this time, all hell is gonna break loose.....