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NO COMPROMISE

Sfi 25.1e Chassis

169 posts in this topic

I thought I would post some pictures of the 25.1E chassis for my ProMod Challenger certified to 6.00 sec.

This is the result of over two years of creating or buying components and fitting them to the car - an extremely tedious and very time consuming task. Everything is held in place with dzus fasteners for quick and easy removal. The next step is to clean and paint the chassis ( next week ) and then start putting everything back together and do all the wiring.

I hope you enjoy!

engine/transmission view

turbo intake pipe support
rear view of dual battery compartments
support bracket for Racepak and shock controller
drivers compartment
floor mounts for MSD 8+ box and door mount for AMS-1000
MSD Smartwire box mounts
door mounts and footrest mounts
dual linelok mounts and brake reservoir mounts - brake lines run inside chassis
rear engine plate mounts
dual fire bottle and CO2 mounts and intercooler mount
footrest and dash mounts
floor panels and containment tray

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There was a 6-9 month period we were stuck with no actual engine (we did have a dummy engine to use). Richard did not want to proceed without the actual engine as too expensive if anything was different from mockup, for example the billet heads, exhaust angle, ect.

We have also had times where we waited like 8 weeks for Peterson to make a custom oil tank, waiting on mandrel bends in specific radius bends that sometimes took 4 weeks, and other components.

There was also a lot of work done on the composite body, fitting, cuttings, sanding, adding, removing in this time period. Also every bracket had to be made, first a cardboard prototype then the actual bracket itself. So although many hours went into welding a lot more went into design, fabrication, and test fitment before getting to what you see in the pictures.

320 labor hours in the last 10 weeks alone. Still have to apply a cleaner to remove the rust then ready for paint ( more labor hours). Wiring is estimated at 80 hours alone not including all the assembly to be done.

Looking forward to seeing you this winter John. Car should be running at Bradenton for testing in January.

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Almost finished with the rust removal process. Will paint next week.

Did a little research and found a nice heavy duty fire extinguisher bracket that can mount to either side of floor of trailer. Decided on Coldfire 2.5 gallon extinguishers. You can fill and recharge yourself.


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For anyone interested we hope to be ready to begin my process of learning the car and testing in January at Bradenton when the Pro Stock teams are here for their winter testing. Kenny is almost ready to final fit engine in the car. Then they will weld the exhaust and turbo plumbing that is currently just tacked. Anyone is welcome to come watch the fun and check out the car in person. Since I live 30 minutes from Bradenton Motorsports Park if MSHS is here this spring I will bring my car to that event.

The chassis is painted and clear coated. Steel pieces being attached this week then we begin wiring Saturday. I have other commitments for several days next week and the following week so might get a slow start for wiring. There should be little waiting on parts as we should have everything except driveshaft, rear axles, third member, and converter in my possession already. Still need a few sets of tires too. Still open what tire to run. I lean towards Hoosiers and Richard and Kenny like Goodyears since they run them on the Pro Stock cars.

A few pictures from today.



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WOW Jim

Everything is starting to come together now and to be testing in Bradenton your Home track will be Great!

Come On January!!!!!!!

I am looking forward to see your amazing car flyng down the track!!!

Thanks for posting up!

Linda

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Great progress Jim very happy for you. It'll start coming together fast now.

Any chance you'll run the NMCA Bradenton event March 19th?

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Rob;

I hope to run a lot of events at Bradenton and throughout the SE but not until next fall. I have a big learning curve and plan to take it one step at a time. But you can be sure I will be there to watch your beast. Seeing what you and Bruce accomplished this year is definitely motivational for me. It is truly amazing what you have done with your car this year.

We start wiring bright and early tomorrow.


Here is the firewall after painting. The openings will be covered with turbo plumbing or wiring harness grommets.



Here is the steel "floor" under the seat required to prevent debris from causing an injury.

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Update -back at it again tomorrow

Coils are wired with twisted pairs and loom to help shielding issues. Also mounted with weatherpak so we could do a quick change if needed.
Turbo Scavenge Pump and grounds fro fan, water pump, and turbo pump. Still not ty wrapped.
This is all that is visible for fan, water pump, and turbo pump wiring other than weatherpak connectors. This also shows how brake lines exit chassis to hook up to front right brake.
These are leads going from Smartwire to various items. These will all connect to terminal blocks and the the other terminals will be inserted into Smartwire. A special tool is required to crimp all Smartwire terminal pins and only 16 ga. wire can be used. Items needing 12 ga. wire like fuel pump, starter solenoid, water pump, ect. can combine 16 ga. wires on one terminal and a 12 ga. wire on the other to allow proper wire sizes based on amp draw.
The -20AN icebox is now connected to the 3000 HP rated intercooler. This hose is $ 20.00 per foot !
Battery cable routes thru firewall directly to starter lug.
A lot of wires are connected on one end and need to be finished on other end, pulled together, ty wrapped and clamped.
The oil tank needs another 1/4” of clearance to radiator so will need to get into my shop and cut down the 4 support spindles.
These are all the wires except coils that power items on right front side of car. There will also be Racepack wires but that will be a completely separate system. I am proud everything is coming out so clean.
Here is the coil wires routing thru firewall and the right side remote start switch. The two remote start switches allow turning the engine over to adjust valve lash without ever leaving engine area of the car. All starter circuits go thru a neutral safety switch on the shifter so starter can only be energized with car in neutral.

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Wow what a build, I have my main hoop bent, and have been real hesitant to move forward (chicken) at anything close to quickly with the rest of the cage. This thing makes what im trying to accomplish with my car look like the difference between Fisher-Price and Snap-on tools. I already wasted about 3 foot of DOM on first main hoop attempt. Your cage is a prime example of "No Balls....No Babies" lol. Thank you for the motivation!

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