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GARRETTECH

Clutch Delay Valve On The 6 Speeds?!?

73 posts in this topic

hey blur, I dont know if you were refering to something I said earlier, but I didnt say the SRTs didnt have it.....I was WONDERING if that was the case, that the R/Ts have it and the SRTs dont.....just wanted to clear that up

Mr. Yellow Jacket says his '12 NEVER had one of those, BUT, part #'s can supercede after a couple model years as we all know and they may ALL have them from 13+. That restriction has every indication of causing SLOW ass reaction between your foot and pressure plate.

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Understood just didn't know if you went off other recommendations or feedback when you decided to get it.

the clutch i went by most that have reccommended it.. the flywheel. well i needed a new one and i have heard good things about them and they allow the engine to spool up quicker.. plus it is the same price as a stock steel factory so what the heck.. will see i guess

waiting on the kooks headers and hope by end of the weekend to drop things back in.. HOPE

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These cars do not come with a CDV.

CDVs delay the entire stroke of the clutch pedal to soften the engagement of the clutch for drivers who don't know to slip it a bit when starting/shifting during cruising situations.

The reason a CDV would be undesirable for racing conditions is because again, it delays the entire stroke of the clutch. The time between shifts will be quite long and the soft engagement of the clutch while at WOT with surely burn up your clutch.

An optimal device would be one that does not hamper the movement of the clutch stroke until the clutch disk starts to grab. At that point a short delay to allow for slip would be helpful not only to avoid breaking parts but also to keep the engine in its powerband instead of dropping out. This would also be optimal for launching.

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Hey micha ost. I get it, thats why I called it an ortifice. And small block found this piece of plastic in his housing. Can you tell us what this is, ehats its purpose, and if temoving it essentially helps fluid flow? Thanks for chiming in!

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For some reason when I first viewed this thread the link you posted in the original post did not show up... probably my slow internet.

This is very interesting! I would have to assume it is there to effect pedal feel. Many older cars used a larger diameter clutch hydraulic line stepped down to a smaller diameter line simply to increase pedal feel. Maybe this is something similar? It's certainly not a one-way valve. How drastically it effects the clutch stroke I do not know.

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It's a restriction orifice, it going to increase the line pressure and make the pedal feel a little bit stiffer initially until the pressure equalizes on both sides of the orifice. On the release side, it is going to restrict the flow initially making the clutch release slightly slower, again until the line pressure equalizes on both sides of the orifice.

If I had to guess, Dodges main reason for doing it would probably be to lessen the shock load of the clutch on initial release.

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It's a restriction orifice, it going to increase the line pressure and make the pedal feel a little bit stiffer initially until the pressure equalizes on both sides of the orifice. On the release side, it is going to restrict the flow initially making the clutch release slightly slower, again until the line pressure equalizes on both sides of the orifice.

If I had to guess, Dodges main reason for doing it would probably be to lessen the shock load of the clutch on initial release.

So the question is.. Is there anything to gain by removing it?

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Yes, I would think you should get a little quicker engagement/disengagement.

You are correct Sir. My stocker had it, I deleted the entire line. Engagement & disengagement improved drastically.

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You are correct Sir. My stocker had it, I deleted the entire line. Engagement & disengagement improved drastically.

I have the Ram adjustable throw out bearing to go in mine. My SRT8 also had the restriction orifice.

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Room raider where did you tie into the stock line? Did you replace it all the way to the clutch pedal?

The Ram throw out bearing comes with the braided lines to replace them all the way to the master cylinder.

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Do you have a picture of how you tied into the master cylinder?

I don't have a pic right now, car is in Martinsville. I purchased extra braided line & went all the way from the pedal @ the firewall. The stock line was tiny by comparison.

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Does anyone have part number of what I need to go from the master cylinder to the ram throw out bearing? Or a picture of how it was tied in at the master cylinder? I only received a fitting that I have to cut the factory line and splice into the existing factory line..

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Found it in my Summit order archive - FRA-650310

Screwed this into the connecting block under the cowl just below the master cylinder on the clutch pedal line coming out of the firewall.

Note* You won't be connecting directly to the master cylinder @ all. The connection is made from the pedal line.

Look @ the master cylinder (right side/ line connection side). The hard lines you see connected to the (Brake) Master cylinder are strictly brake lines * Do Not Touch* There is a black clamped rubber hose that feeds fluid through the firewall to the pedal. This is the (clutch) pedal/master cylinder low pressure feed line. Now look closer and you'll see the high pressure line coming out of the firewall near the same location. You'll find the connection block, after that It should have some (High temp OEM corrugated plastic wire loom over the braided line, all the way down to the bell housing. There is a firewall clamp holding the line close to the firewall. This is the line you want to delete. You can tie into that line either with the Ram fitting, which will require cutting or tie into the block connection you see closest to the master cylinder by way of AN bubble adapter.

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