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us1champ

Need Help

49 posts in this topic

i got the motor in my car started and all that fun stuff.. went for a drive and DISTROYED the belt and the 100 hood liner.

here is a video i took prior to driving.. this was PRE trip inspection.. notice the belt moving on the idler pulleys.. and it loosen up on the ac compressor.. i can't get any tighter belt on here. the next step is 1" shorter which won't work.. I do not want to continue to shred belts.. i am wondering if i need to SHIM OUT the supercharger idler bracket pulley?

let me know your thoughts

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNVjrBCMjiOp9HCIQfH67EbZFf8y_i2py-YztoC89gmY2qZ8lICDkoY-EiuzWP2dQ?key=MnlyMTZNRkN2dUhqQlRRa1k0MktzWDJJand3MWZn

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i got the motor in my car started and all that fun stuff.. went for a drive and DISTROYED the belt and the 100 hood liner.

here is a video i took prior to driving.. this was PRE trip inspection.. notice the belt moving on the idler pulleys.. and it loosen up on the ac compressor.. i can't get any tighter belt on here. the next step is 1" shorter which won't work.. I do not want to continue to shred belts.. i am wondering if i need to SHIM OUT the supercharger idler bracket pulley?

let me know your thoughts

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNVjrBCMjiOp9HCIQfH67EbZFf8y_i2py-YztoC89gmY2qZ8lICDkoY-EiuzWP2dQ?key=MnlyMTZNRkN2dUhqQlRRa1k0MktzWDJJand3MWZn

So did you change anything on the belt drive from when it was working fine before ?

I had the same issue with the Maggie and the 2.8 pulley, couldn't find a belt the length I needed so I ended up making a larger diameter 7075 aluminum idler pulley for the lower idler, worked like a charm.

I ended up making several of these for other people that had the same issue.

20130311_180547.jpg

20130310_111535.jpg

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Ok someone please help me

I have literally tried everything I can. I have changed all the alum spacers behind the idlers in different positions . I have tried shimming the idler closest to the power steering pump.

I have tried going back to the plastic idlers ( I have alum ).

I changed both bearings in the alum thinking maybe one had to much drag.

I tried to shim the dog bone away just from the pulleys and that is worse the dog bone is actually hitting the belt and keeping it in the power steering pulley. It puff smoke off the dog bone. Again if I ship it then it wants to creep off the pump pulley.

I tried shimming just one pulley.

I put my old 3.1 pulley back on with no difference

I tried shimming the upper pulley more out toward the radiator. Made worse

I am out of patience

Out of money

And if I don't get this Ironed out soon it will other get traded in and lose my ass or I will blow the bitch up .

I have tried 5 belt sizes different length also

Please anyone ?

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I had the same issues after Arrington installed the Maggie initially on mine. The belt they had on it was to long, the next size shorter belt that was available was to short. This is the very reason why I made the aluminum idler pulleys, they are slightly larger in diameter than the plastic idlers. I also made the lower aluminum idler to take up a little more slack in the belt, problem was solved after that. The belt is getting to much slack in it under load and causing the tracking to get off.

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Call me crazy, but that belt is too big. Alignment isn't the issue, IMO. I think Kenny is telling you exactly what he did and it fixed the issue. I remember him making those pulley's. Something needs to be a larger diameter to take up that slack. Just my .02.

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Well, your tensioner tells the story...too much slack.

Best of luck.

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So if you say the belt is to long and the shortest belt 98" is a real bitch to put on in that video was a 99

What would you do?

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^^^ It's a fine line to get it right, that's the reason I made the larger diameter lower idler. I had the exact same issues but with a different pulley combo.

To short of a belt, way to much tension and it starts breaking shit.

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So if you say the belt is to long and the shortest belt 98" is a real bitch to put on in that video was a 99

What would you do?

I would listen to the guy who sold me the blower, had the same issue and fixed the issue.

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It's where every one with a Maggie has belt issues.

Take a pic of where the belt sits on the idler pulleys with the motor off.

Had same issue and had to shim the idler bracket maybe a 1/16 on that side to fix it.

Of course this was after tearing the snot of 10 belts and the PS plastic pulley too.

Also, what's the setup, 6.1, 17% OD, etc?

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6.1

5% overdrive on the bottom

2.6 upper. when i tried to shim that side of the bracket it makes it worse for jumping off the pump pulley

i got the pulley from SMOOTHFLOW PULLEYS and i am wondering if maybe the 2.6 pulley doesn't have the correct back spacing?

magnuson says it needs to be .440


the belt sits nice on what i call the TOP side of the pulley.. but on the bottom side comming off the pump it is RIGHT AT THE EDGE that is why it is catching the dog bone bracket

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Hey Chris in the vid it looks like that idler is twisting up at the front. When that happens it twists the belt up and it's riding off the front on the ps pulley. Can you strengthen that bracket to stop that? Also the pulley is so small you'll be spinning the bearing to death when the day comes you can do some sustained WFO runs. The reason I made my tensioner Pullies for the kb drives a 4" was to slow down the bearing speed and gain some life out of them. If Diablo can get you a pulley jump on it.

Also alignment is key. The easiest way to check is go get a 2ft piece of 1"X 1.5" bar stock that dead straight. Clamp it to the damper pulley then measure off the back side to the center of a high rib. You can then rotate it around and check all the other Pullies and adjust as needed.

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If you are riding the front side of the idler towards the dog bone, your idler bracket is out of alignment, assuming your upper pulley is proper. ( I run smoothflow pulleys and don't have an issue btw)

Shimming it forward, one side or both, to get the belt to ride center/rear of the idler is key.

It's a delicate process of very small adjustments and yes, it's a pia, but once you nail it, should be good.

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Also alignment is key. The easiest way to check is go get a 2ft piece of 1"X 1.5" bar stock that dead straight. Clamp it to the damper pulley then measure off the back side to the center of a high rib. You can then rotate it around and check all the other Pullies and adjust as needed.

Back in the day had this same issue on snowmobile clutches... Fixed just like Cam says. 2' long flat bar and in our case align the motor mounts as the drive clutch was fixed.

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Belts too long. Watch what the tensioner does when you blip the throttle. It's going to the stop. Kenny's telling you exactly right. If you can't get the bigger idlers, you can put a 17% OD damper on (what I have), or go down a pulley size on the blower.

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i will check with some sort of flat bar as best i can.. ( not alot of room )

that video which is 20+ video's old now that i have shot to study is with the origonal belt 99"

it does the same thing with a 98" belt and i can't physically put a smaller one on there.

i need to make this 5% o.d. work as i am out of cash and can't afford anything else.

when i shim the bracket to the side i want to try to make it straight it makes the belt slip off worse.. any suggestions?

as for the upper pulley i am already a 2.6 and i can't get a 2.5 on there. no room

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Shim the idler bracket closest to the ps pulley out towards the radiator with a small washer or two behind the bracket. You may have to shim 2 of the 3 contact points to get it right. I would start with the one by ps pulley if you are riding front edge by dog bone.

And no, you won't be able to get a 2.5 on there without matching the hub.

Pull the fans to check the alignment also, much easier.

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Hey Chris in the vid it looks like that idler is twisting up at the front. When that happens it twists the belt up and it's riding off the front on the ps pulley. Can you strengthen that bracket to stop that? Also the pulley is so small you'll be spinning the bearing to death when the day comes you can do some sustained WFO runs. The reason I made my tensioner Pullies for the kb drives a 4" was to slow down the bearing speed and gain some life out of them. If Diablo can get you a pulley jump on it.

Also alignment is key. The easiest way to check is go get a 2ft piece of 1"X 1.5" bar stock that dead straight. Clamp it to the damper pulley then measure off the back side to the center of a high rib. You can then rotate it around and check all the other Pullies and adjust as needed.

Cam the aluminum idlers he has on the car now are ones that I made when this blower was on my car. They are larger diameter than the stock plastic idlers Magnuson used in the kits. I also made a lower idler that that was larger in diameter than stock, did this because I was having the same issues he is having but on a stock 6.1 balancer with a 2.8 blower pulley. The belt Arrington put on it originally was to long, first time I ran it hard it spit the belt. I put a new one on that was the same length they had on it and noticed the tensioner bottoming to the slack side just blipping the throttle. The next size shorter belt available was to short so I made the lower idler larger diameter ( in the pics I posted above) and it put the tensioner slightly past center to the tight side and I never had another issue with belts.

What I don't understand is he had the blower on his stock 6.1 and it worked fine. Now he pulled the motor & forged it, installed a ATI 5% OD balancer and changed the blower pulley to a 2.65 and now it keeps throwing the belt. I don't understand.

If I remember correctly, been a long time, there were aluminum spacers on the idler bracket and for some reason I seem to remember them being different lengths. I think I actually tapped the spacer on the bolts still in the bracket when I shipped him the blower. If they got swapped around that could be part of the problem also.

I'm going to look this afternoon and see if I have one of the lower idlers I made.

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