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Ugeo O2 Sensor And 65Rfe Questions... Sent From Another Forum To Here For Good Info

30 posts in this topic

Hello everyone, I was told to check out this forum on a different forum to hopefully get some questions answered. This one came highly recommended. So here's my questions. FYI, right now what I'm most curious about is the UGEO sensor, but the trans topic will help me in the future.

1. I have a '14 Ram with the 5.7 hemi. I'm told that it came from the factory with narrowband sensors. I thought everything had switched to wideband, but I guess I was mistaken. As I'm going to be installing a Procharger on my truck for some extra power, I want to mount an Air/Fuel ratio gauge. I would LOVE to avoid having to go through the hassle of drilling a hole and welding a bung on for yet another O2 sensor. Does anyone know if you can mount a your UGEO sensor that would come with the Air/Fuel gauge kit, say from AutoMeter, and tap into it to supply the narrowband signal to the PCM/ECM without adversely effecting economy/driveability/etc.? If so, how?

2. I'm told the 65RFE is not the most stout trans out there. I don't race my truck and I never will. It's a 4 door truck used for going back and forth to work and pulling my 27' camper. That being said, having a supercharger will, I'm sure, end up with me doing some 0-60, light to light blasts on occasion. Does anyone know if there is an outfit that sells a beefed up 65RFE? Can you swap a 66RFE in place of a 65RFE and would it be worth it? If you did the swap, what implications would it have on the PCM tuning, etc.?

I know this is kindof long for my first post, so I'll stop here. I'm really hoping to get some good feedback. I was told this was the place to come. Thanks in advance for any advice!

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Well dangit! I was afraid someone would say that. On my last project it was easy because I deleted the O2's and mounted the sensor in one of the existing bungs. I know it might seem silly to be complaining about welding in a bung vs. doing all of the wiring splicing that would be require (if it was possible), but I can make wiring look clean, and there's already so many dang sensors in the exhaust.

Anyone running a Procharger on a 5.7 Ram? (Should I start a new thread for that question?)

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Ya I understand. But the inpedance change doesn't play nice with our PCM. About the only guy I know of that could probably recalibrate the table with be AJ (hemituner) and for what that would take and cost is a lot more hassle then welding a bung in. Assuming it can even be done.

Ya there's guys doing it with centri units. Just watch how greedy you get with the boost. Contact either hemi31 or Aj for your tuning solutions also.

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Negatory, I have the 6 speed. The 8 speed was an option.

Edit: I bought my truck in January of '14, so it's an early '14. Build date I'm sure is some time in late '13.

I'm not going to go crazy with the boost. I'm going to use Prochargers bolt on kit with their tune. It puts out around 7-9 psi. It comes with the D1SC head unit which is capable of a lot more, but I like the tops of my pistons in one piece, so I'll keep it conservative for now. I'm also going to do a water/meth injection system that will activate around 3 psi. Some day down the road I'll probably build another short/long block with forged rods and slugs in it and then turn up the wick.

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I suggest you don't waste your time and money on meth (fucking band aid IM asshole opinion). Spend that money on a good air to air HE and you'll be much better off.

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The Procharger kit comes with an intercooler. The water/meth is cheap insurance... and it works very well. I've used it in turbocharged V8 aircraft applications very successfully.

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The kit is a pretty basic deal. Do some research on bigger, better, badder units. It's money well spent. I've seen these pro charger units when not spun to death with good well plumbed large HE's have AIT's within 20-30% of ambient at max set up boost. Blower builds is all I do and I will never install a meth kit, ever. If someone wants that then go find a window tinter to install it and find someone else to work on your ride. But that whole discussion is something I won't discuss beyond what I just discussed. :P

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Cam, I think you missed where I said I'm not going for big boost. I'm not using this truck to race. If I wanted a bucket full of power I'd go with a twin turbo setup on a built engine. This is just a mild add on for a daily driver. I have other vehicles that I play with to go fast.

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Personally I'm loving my water/meth system. No timing retard, no knock, clean pistons, low intake temps. Downside: cost of methanol, maintenance.

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

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Personally I'm loving my water/meth system. No timing retard, no knock, clean pistons, low intake temps. Downside: cost of methanol, maintenance.

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

I must be the only one that thinks boost juice is cheap. 30$ for 4 gallons isn't bad at all. What maintaince are you talking about? Filling the tank?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

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I must be the only one that thinks boost juice is cheap. 30$ for 4 gallons isn't bad at all. What maintaince are you talking about? Filling the tank?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Guys, you know you can just use winter windshield wiper fluid, right? It does the same job. It has methanol in it to keep it from freezing. That's all I've ever used. Check out this MSDS.

http://grimsleysinc.com/page_images/1370538335.pdf

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I must be the only one that thinks boost juice is cheap. 30$ for 4 gallons isn't bad at all. What maintaince are you talking about? Filling the tank?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Maintenance and cost of methanol I think can have an impact. it depends on what you set your controller up for, how many nozzles you're running, nozzle flow rate, water/meth ratio, tank size, system dependence as a temp reduction mechanism, etc.

I run a dual nozzle, three gallon tank system and I go thru what I consider to be a lot. But after I saw the gains I couldn't go back. I'm hooked.

My rig does even run the same anymore without it. Instant negative feedback if the tank runs dry. Temps don't even have to increase.

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

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Guys, you know you can just use winter windshield wiper fluid, right? It does the same job. It has methanol in it to keep it from freezing. That's all I've ever used. Check out this MSDS.

http://grimsleysinc.com/page_images/1370538335.pdf

Yep. Thanks. I'm aware. And I do when -30 or better is in stock in the winter. But I can tell the difference in performance between a 50/50 mix and a summer wiper fluid formula.

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

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The only Hemi to use a wideband from the factory is the Hellcat. You need to weld in the bung for the wideband. Pre Cat is preferable. If you run it after the cat, it will show leaner then what the engine is actually running. You can't use the rear O2 bung because it is between the cat bricks and will read incorrectly as well.

Cam is right, Meth injection is a band aid for a bad intercooler design. IATs are just as important, if not more so, when towing then racing. You are at high load longer pulling your 27ft trailer up a grade in the desert then you will ever spend at WOT.

Corporate trans is not as durable as the NAG1 or 8 speed. It gets pissed off pretty quick when you start adding power. Boosting my tow truck, especially with a 66RFE would not be my first choice....

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The only Hemi to use a wideband from the factory is the Hellcat. You need to weld in the bung for the wideband. Pre Cat is preferable. If you run it after the cat, it will show leaner then what the engine is actually running. You can't use the rear O2 bung because it is between the cat bricks and will read incorrectly as well.

Cam is right, Meth injection is a band aid for a bad intercooler design. IATs are just as important, if not more so, when towing then racing. You are at high load longer pulling your 27ft trailer up a grade in the desert then you will ever spend at WOT.

Corporate trans is not as durable as the NAG1 or 8 speed. It gets pissed off pretty quick when you start adding power. Boosting my tow truck, especially with a 66RFE would not be my first choice....

^^^^^Exactly what I told a friend from work who has an 09 1500. He wants to Supercharge it for more towing power, I told him your best bet is to put in a set of 3.92 or 4.10 gears or trade it for a Diesel.

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I thought they went to the 8hp70 in 14?

They did. Missed that. OP you have the 8 speed right? If so your golden.

Lower trim levels were/are still the RFE.

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Lower trim levels were/are still the RFE.

Sent from my StarTac using Tapatalk

This brings up a good question, because for the life of me I can't remember. What trim level would my truck be? It's the Quad Cab, all blacked out, upgraded sound system, tow package, limited slip, backup camera. I'm not sure what trim this would be considered. SLT?

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This brings up a good question, because for the life of me I can't remember. What trim level would my truck be? It's the Quad Cab, all blacked out, upgraded sound system, tow package, limited slip, backup camera. I'm not sure what trim this would be considered. SLT?

No idea. There were certain levels when I looked at them that had the 6spd (I was surprised about that). Just looked at the Ram site and, on quad cabs, it is available on the Tradesmen and Express. Dunno about '14.

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sounds like a SLT

Yeah, it's got some goodies in it, but not all of them. I didn't opt for the power seats, trailer brake, or leather for the following reasons:

1. Only I drive my truck. Once the seat is in a position I like it, there's no need to move it. I haven't moved it since I bought the truck.

2. I already had a trailer brake controller and the harness to plug into the truck harness was only $30.

3. I don't like leather.

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