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Dodgefan10

Spark Plug Change Interval

27 posts in this topic

Ok, I give....Not that I need to do it at 1900mi but, wondered when the spark plugs need to be changed on the 392? Anyone know? Have looked through the owners manual and user guide..(not in either one all the way out to 150K miles).... It tells you which plug to use but, only gives the change interval for the V6 and the 5.7... Am I blind?

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Excellent, thank you gentlemen. Will check my owners disc again....thought I looked through "everything" but that's a relative term...

On another note, why does the SRT maintence schedule just stop at 150K? 0.o Is there something else I need to know?? lol

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I wasn't very impressed with the disc they give us with a new car but the paper manual you can have them send you is just like the one I was looking at on line from the Dodge website and you don't have to pay for the paper or ink.

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100k plugs are not realistic.... Here is a set with 70k out of an 8.1L (496ci) Chevy and some new plugs side by side. Me I would be checking at 20k and every 10k after that for a daily driver. If I raced my car I would check before and after a day at the track.

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Before I got my Challenger (5.7) a couple years ago I never heard of anybody now days that needed plugs that soon. In high school I use to change points and plugs every couple months but I thought we out grew that.

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Every Mopar I've have ever had, the longest interval was 30k miles... that covers early 70's, mid 80's, mid 90's, early 2000, mid 2000's and my Challenger and Aspen. Only difference has been the change from Champion plugs to NGK's on the VVT motors.

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With todays EFI we change a lot of perfrctly good plugs, admitingly I'm a marine tech. ( specialize in outboards ) and don't work on a lot of automobiles. But I do work on the 496 ( used in the inboards ) some just from the looks of the plugs you showed us you have more problems that just plugs.

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Every Mopar I've have ever had, the longest interval was 30k miles... that covers early 70's, mid 80's, mid 90's, early 2000, mid 2000's and my Challenger and Aspen. Only difference has been the change from Champion plugs to NGK's on the VVT motors.

I haven't had mopars after my 70 Challenger I had in 75 before my 10 Challenger but I've had a lot of Fords and Chevy's after that and never had one that needed plugs more than every 60K or more miles on them after 1979.

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With todays EFI we change a lot of perfrctly good plugs, admitingly I'm a marine tech. ( specialize in outboards ) and don't work on a lot of automobiles. But I do work on the 496 ( used in the inboards ) some just from the looks of the plugs you showed us you have more problems that just plugs.

With todays EFI we change a lot of perfrctly good plugs, admitingly I'm a marine tech. ( specialize in outboards ) and don't work on a lot of automobiles. But I do work on the 496 ( used in the inboards ) some just from the looks of the plugs you showed us you have more problems that just plugs.

Your boat motor isn't pulling 22,000 to 26,000 lbs around either. Also, I am sure that the fuel you use is from the same source and not from a random source. Lot's of factors make each usage different. My point is the 100,000 mile claim is under ideal conditions and in reality is pure bull shit.

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Welcome to the wonderful world of Mopars.

Ya I use to run my 70 Challenger at the local strip and changed the plugs weekly and usually a couple of push rods. That 383 loved to bend push rods but ran like a raped ape when it was running on all 8.

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Ya I use to run my 70 Challenger at the local strip and changed the plugs weekly and usually a couple of push rods. That 383 loved to bend push rods but ran like a raped ape when it was running on all 8.

I hated gapping points. Hated it. Replaced a push rod or two myself. Never had a 383, a 400, but not a 383. Got a 440 now, makes about the same HP as my car, but has more torque. Big Blocks FTW!

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I hated gapping points. Hated it. Replaced a push rod or two myself. Never had a 383, a 400, but not a 383. Got a 440 now, makes about the same HP as my car, but has more torque. Big Blocks FTW!

that was the only good thing about later Chevy's with points. Open up the window in the distributor cap, instal allen wrench and look at the dwell meter. beat the hell out of useing the feeler gauge resetting timeing and doing it every time you turned around.

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I was at a car swap meet a few weeks ago and saw a dwell meter and timing light in a kit. Kinda brought back memories :) Still remember the points on my old Ford set at .21 and timing was 6 degree BTDC. Sucks I can remember that and can't usually remember what I had for breakfast yesterday.

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Cool, thanks for the tip...Will go get some anti-sieze and dielectric grease and do just that. :)

Remember that anti-seize and dielectric grease is like Brylcream.... a little dab will do ya.

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