Header Install

[nolimits76 7]

Every person I have ran into says changing the headers is nothing short of a PITA. Any of you do it? And have pictures, write-ups, tips, tricks, etc to share? Estimated time to complete? In the process of gathering data before I tear into it. She's my daily driver, so I need to make sure I have my ducks in a row with all tools and help in-place before I start.

I will be putting on the SRT392 shorties, SOLO high flow cats/mids and Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back all at the same time. Just got my exhaust over Turkey Day holiday for a killer price.

[ironchallenger 108]

keep calm and take your time,

flex head wrenches are your best friend,. i also recommend getting the proper hardware for the SRT headers, M8X30 flanged bolts work very well.

also youll need 1 longer 8mm bolt, roughly about 60mm long, and a spacer for the dip stick.

also, use the SRT style gaskets.

[StevoHemi 221]

What Mani said ^^^^^^ I have that EXACT system on my RT. Great sound!

I did my headers last spring. Do not remove starter. You don't have to.

Do the drivers side first. It's easier. I got all new bolts, studs and gaskets from the dealer.

Undo the verticle studs that go through the k-frame for the motor mounts. Raise the motor about 5 inches. Makes the install a lot easier.

I used adjustable flat ratchets. Makes it a lot faster to do.

Passenger side harder to do. The two upper center bolts are the hardest.

Like Mani said.... no rush... take your time and save $$$$.

A man has to work on his own shit!

Should take you 5 hours at a steady pace.

You will have to rebend the dipstick tube. It took me about a dozen tries to get it right. Make sure you have a heat shield on the starter. Cover the alternator wire harness with a DEI heat protector.

Good Luck.

Stevo

[Hemi57 324]

SRT8/392 Headers

Wrenches...

Dip stick shim

Gaskets and Header Bolts

1 - 5038098AA

1 - 5038099AA

16 - 6503131

You may need longer O2 sensor depending on what mids you use.

I removed the oil filter and the fuse box bracket. If you remove one motor mount at a time it will make it easier.

Lastly if you have one of these it helps a bunch along with a 2nd pair of hands.

Steveo.... I didn't bend the dip stick on my install. I just shimmed the 5.7 exhaust bolt.

[novawagonmaster 62]

Steveo.... I didn't bend the dip stick on my install. I just shimmed the 5.7 exhaust bolt.

Same here.

Flex head gear wrenches and lots of different extensions and swivels. There are a couple bolts that are difficult to get started, but once they are started, you can fish a socket/swivel/extension up there to get it.

[BuckeyeGuy 90]

Steveo.... I didn't bend the dip stick on my install. I just shimmed the 5.7 exhaust bolt.

+1 - just shim out the bolt

Have had the engine in and out of my car 3 times this year, each time necessitated removing the headers first and then re-installing as we were not dropping the cradle.. Jon and I are actually getting quite good at it and no, we don't have a lift. With the two of us working on it, it actaully goes pretty quick now, but for the first time around, plan on anywhere from 5 to 8 hours depending on the alcohol consumption.

^^^ , responding at the same time..

[StevoHemi 221]

Ok...me stoopid.... I thought you had to bend the tube....

Stevo

[nolimits76 7]

Great info! Thanks and please keep it coming!!!

I do have a few more questions:

1. Will I also need new bolts/nuts (images #4 & #5 in pic below) for connection of the SOLO’s? Not at home in front of them, but I do not remember seeing the bolts. And I’m thinking it might be best to just pick them up when grabbing the other stuff.

2. Expanding on the first question, I noticed Steve White’s parts site showed the Hex Flange Lock (image #5 below), M10x1.50, part # 06104710AA, $1.48/ea, to be superseded by part # 06104717AA, Hex Flange Lock, M10x150, $2.18/ea. The strange thing is the newer part only shows up under the 5.7 and 6.1 engines, not the 6.4 which is what these headers are from although I doubt it matters much. Moreso, I would like to know the difference between the two, and what warrants a $.70/ea increase. Not much money but % it’s a big jump.

3. Are the Mopar factory header bolts (image #2)($.53/ea) good enough? Or should I consider the Mr. Gasket header bolt set (16 for $15.88)? There are 2 types. An allen head, grade 5 bolt designed to be smaller and easier to get to or a grade 8 hex head. Or is a Stage 8 header 17-bolt set upgrade needed? The Stage 8 states they never loosen, but they are pricey (at least from SX) at $42/set ($2.47/ea).

http://www.speedlogi..._p/mrg-978g.htm

http://www.speedlogi..._p/stg-8916.htm

4. Do I need 16 or 17 bolts? The different bolt sets listed above has conflicting info. Also, I thought I saw an article on ARH’s where one side had an extra bolt. Not sure if that was strictly ARH headers or factory ones too.

5. What specific sizes of flexible gear wrenches do I need? I’m guessing 8mm? I have gear wrenches, just not flexible. Where did you buy yours? I will be checking Harbor Freight and similar. But if I can find a good deal, I wouldn’t mind to pick up a set for the toolbox. Otherwise I might just buy a single or borrow one if I can find someone willing.

6. Stevo…tell me more about the heat shield on the starter and DEI heat protector on the alternator wire harness. Links?

7. Maybe this has something to do with #7 above, but I’ve read in some other posts about the stock 5.7 manifolds having heat shields. In fact someone got into an argument over it on here I believe. Do I need to reinstall those too?

8. I am looking to buy most this stuff from Steve White’s auto parts. Below is a list of crap I’ve got in my basket. I noticed there is a spot for a coupon code. Anyone have one? Are they a supporting vendor?

My Cart Print

ESTIMATED TOTAL:

$58.76

Customer Name: Vehicle: 2012 Dodge Challenger 2dr Cpe SRT8 392

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Item Qty. Delivery Options Price

Exhaust Manifolds And Heat Shields 6.4L [ESH] Without MDS - GASKET, Exhaust Manifold Part Only

Part#: 05038099AA

Move to Wish List Update Ship Store Pickup $15.46

Exhaust Manifolds And Heat Shields 6.4L [ESH] Without MDS - GASKET, Exhaust Manifold Part Only

Part#: 05038098AA

Move to Wish List Update Ship Store Pickup $15.46

Exhaust Manifolds And Heat Shields 6.4L [ESH] Without MDS - NUT, Hex Flange LockPart Only

Part#: 06104710AA

Move to Wish List Update Ship Store Pickup $5.92

Exhaust Manifolds And Heat Shields 6.4L [ESH] Without MDS - STUD, Double EndedPart Only

Part#: 06507880AA

Move to Wish List Update Ship Store Pickup $4.72

Exhaust Manifolds And Heat Shields 6.4L [ESH] Without MDS - BOLT, Hex Flange HeadPart Only

Part#: 06503131

Move to Wish List Update Ship Store Pickup $8.48

Exhaust Manifolds And Heat Sheilds 5.7L [EZC] Without MDS - NUT, Hex Flange LockPart Only

Part#: 06104717AA

Move to Wish List Update Ship Store Pickup $8.72

Subtotal: $58.76

Apply Coupon Code:

$0.00

ESTIMATED TOTAL: $58.76

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[StevoHemi 221]

Heat shield part number is 05030085AB.

I believe my shield was tossed by my installer on my JBA header install. I noticed it was missing when I did my SRT8 headers. Played it safe.

See this link.

http://www.lxforums....-shield-269693/

DEI stuff...

http://www.ngmotorsp..._protection.php

Stevo

[toofart 159]

It isn't that bad of a job -- about 3 beers per side. I did it on my back on jackstands

[nolimits76 7]

Heat shield part number is 05030085AB.

I believe my shield was tossed by my installer on my JBA header install. I noticed it was missing when I did my SRT8 headers. Played it safe.

See this link.

http://www.lxforums....-shield-269693/

DEI stuff...

http://www.ngmotorsp..._protection.php

Stevo

Thanks Steve, I think I will play safe too since she is my daily driver. Which DEI size/length did you end up buying? Any US vendors? I noticed all that was Australian dollars.

It isn't that bad of a job -- about 3 beers per side. I did it on my back on jackstands

Woohoo!!!! Best answer yet. So in about 15-20 minutes per side I should be done. That just goes to show drinking does have benefits.

[StevoHemi 221]

Any Speed Shop will have it. Comes in 3 ft lengths. Cut to fit.

Stevo

[nolimits76 7]

Hey Steve, I just saw your thread about touring the SOLO facility, etc. That is friggin cool. I bought my stuff used, but have only heard excellent things about their products.

Moving onto my point, in that read, I noticed you mentioned the LC-1 bung being welded in. I don’t have a blower or gauge setup yet, but would it be worthwhile to go ahead and add the LC-1 bung/wires while I am doing the rest? Or is it not that big of a deal to do later?

If so, what all do I need?

[Hemi57 324]

Go back to my post as the part numbers are there.

You use 6.1 header gaskets and 6.1 exhaust manifold bolts. You really on need 15 bolts as you will reuse the dip stick bolt with a shim. The 6.1 bolts come with sealer already on them.

Forget about the 5.7 gaskets with the heat shields as they are not needed. The SRT headers have a clam shell cover that does the same thing as the 5.7 heat shields.

5.7 headers

6.1 headers with a 5.7 gasket and heat shield. The heat shield makes it even harder to see and get to the header bolts.

As for the mids. The 5.7 and 6.1 attachment is almost 180° out from each other. The left one is a Magna Flow High Flow cat, next is the 6.1 and then the 5.7 cat. You will also notice that the O2 sensors ar in a different position.

As for wire shielding I just rerouted mine a bit and use some tie wraps where necessary.

If you ever plan to do a wide band O2 sensor have the bung welded it and get spark plug bolt and washer to plug it until your ready. The Maga Flows are ready had one welded in.

Be sure to use a dab of never seize on you O2 sensor threads.

IIRC the 5.7 starter heat shield does not work with the 6.1 setup.

[StevoHemi 221]

Heatshield on my 5.7 starter is a 6.1 heat shield. You have to bend the front of it to make it fit on the bolt. No biggie.

Stevo

[nolimits76 7]

In lieu of the flex gear wrenches, has anyone used the flex socket drivers or even the flex sockets? Seems they should work the same, but maybe you don't get the same leverage?

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-in-drive-flex-head-quick-release/p-00944815000P?prdNo=8

or

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-in-drive-full-polish-offset-flex/p-00944835000P?prdNo=10

or

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-8mm-socket-6-pt/p-00943194000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

[novawagonmaster 62]

The flex head gear wrenches are far more versatile (especially in a tight area). I use the hell out of mine.

[StevoHemi 221]

These are your best friends in this install....

Stevo

[Hemi57 324]

In lieu of the flex gear wrenches, has anyone used the flex socket drivers or even the flex sockets? Seems they should work the same, but maybe you don't get the same leverage?

http://www.sears.com...815000P?prdNo=8

or

http://www.sears.com...35000P?prdNo=10

or

http://www.sears.com...=1&blockType=G1

All good stuff... But no room to get them and the socket on the head of the bolt.

[KeavDog 29]

And anti-seize one the bung plug. Don't want to get stuck in the bung hole.

[StevoHemi 221]

Here is the bung you need. This bung comes with a steel cap that covers the bung until you need to put it into use. It goes to the right of the O.E. bung on the drivers side cat. Do it now when the cat is off the car. If you decide to go the S/C route, you are one step ahead.

Here is the link.

http://www.innovatem...&cat=250&page=1

Good luck with the install.

Stevo

[ironchallenger 108]

9 dollars? you fkn kidding me?

shits worth a dollar.

[BuckeyeGuy 90]

Shipping and handling...

[nolimits76 7]

Thanks for the input on the flex sockets and wrenches. I will just have to get or borrow some wrenches for the job.

And thanks Keav for that reminder.

One other thing what size/brand of O2 extenders will I need? I am using the SOLO high flow cats/mids. Looks like one bug is near the top flange where it connects. The other is a little ways down in the 3" tube. I will try to snap a pic later.

I saw where you said Rock Auto, Dale. Do I just look for SRT392 O2 plugs? I saw a 12" Bosch one for $20. Just not sure it's right.

Also have a PM into SOLO for the stuff they ship with the units.

[StevoHemi 221]

For the longer O2 extensions I used Bosch 15510 (I believe that is the right number) from a parts jobber. Don't try and open up the OE wire harness from above and try and stretch your original O2's. It ain't worth the hassle. Do it right the first time and buy the longer ones.

Stevo