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70challengerrt440

Amp Dodge Challenger Rt Srt8 Tr6060 Bronze Shifter Cup Isolator Bushing

34 posts in this topic

Hey thanks for the purchase. Please give us some feed back on this shift bushing. No one else offers this exact product for the Mopar TR6060 Challenger as far as we know. We look forward to your opinion on fit, finish and ease of installation along with performance of the product as well.

Mike @ AMP Distributing

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hey mike, there is another shop that makes them in texas. Driveline Specialties was the name if i remember correctly .

Are they specifically for the TR6060? I know in years past, we all had to modify the T56 bushing to work in these units. The problem is, the inner diameter of the bushing was a little bit too small and the shift rails interfered with installation unless you installed the bushing prior to driving the roll pins into place. With our specific TR6060 bushing, it can be installed without removing the roll pins and the inner diameter is precisely machined for the Challenger shift finger. Our bushings are also made of tool grade quality bronze to ensure long life span under the hardest shifting environments.

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My plastic cup was loose in the shift selector. And there is considerable wear where the shift finger rubs on the plastic bushing. It looks like it was originally held in place with locktite. The fitment on the Amp bushing is good. There is no binding with the shift finger.70..

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My plastic cup was loose in the shift selector. And there is considerable wear where the shift finger rubs on the plastic bushing. It looks like it was originally held in place with locktite. The fitment on the Amp bushing is good. There is no binding with the shift finger.70..

Great to hear. Hopefully it will provide years of service to you.

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Where does this part live?

There is a 4 bolt cover that houses the shift finger and shift rail that attaches to your shifter itself. Under that cover, this part resides.

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I am pretty sure you will need to pull the trans. No its not hard to install. Just getting to it is the difficult part.

Yeah getting the old one off is most of the battle due to being epoxied into place. We usually suggest a hammer and flat blade screw driver to break the epoxy loose. If the bushing is broken or loose, it should just fall out.

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^^ Just from installing a shifter I would say No to doing on car, but I'm old and don't bend or heal as fast anymore. And 70 let us know if you have to isolate the shift linkage cause the 70Modded Hurst is so loud, tee hee ! ;)

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^^ Just from installing a shifter I would say No to doing on car, but I'm old and don't bend or heal as fast anymore. And 70 let us know if you have to isolate the shift linkage cause the 70Modded Hurst is so loud, tee hee ! ;)

I reused the rear factory rubber mount, after I had the poly bushing in it. Poly bushing caused a lot of feedback noise. Much better after the stock rubber was switched out.

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I reused the rear factory rubber mount, after I had the poly bushing in it. Poly bushing caused a lot of feedback noise. Much better after the stock rubber was switched out.

Well was just a joke really, I used leather in place of rubber myself for tunnel mount washer (thick boot grade) and handle to block (welding jacket thin), once the poly wears in a bit it quiets down but never bothered me either way, I remember Muncies had to SHOUT till 4th gear! ;)

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